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Old 03-14-2016, 01:02 PM   #61
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I paid the $54 I think. Couldn't wait for a sale, had to get this thing running.

Yes, it could be finished off better. But probably won't be by me.

I think the 2k inverter should be way over what I'll need. But I just don't want it to trip off. And it wasn't that much more than the 1.5k one. I also ordered another auto switch to wire in, just like I did with the 600 watt one. I really like how it works.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:11 PM   #62
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better still make your own ring terminals out of copper tubing & pipe -

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Old 03-15-2016, 10:46 AM   #63
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If you are going to buy a bunch of heavy battery cable I have often found it cheaper to go my local welding supply as opposed to the auto/truck parts joint. Also welding cable is more flexible to fish into tight spots.
You are correct. I had heard that too. I did check the auto parts store and they had 2 gauge cable for $4/ft! I then checked my welding supply store and they have 1 gauge (car store didn't even have 1 gauge) for $2/ft. And it's that super flexible welder cable too. I also ordered another battery disconnect switch on ebay so I can wire this 2k inverter directly to my battery bank and still be able to shut it off from the battery bay. I had wired the 600 watt inverter to a lug just after the existing battery disconnect switch. I'll leave that one there.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:07 AM   #64
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You are correct. I had heard that too. I did check the auto parts store and they had 2 gauge cable for $4/ft! I then checked my welding supply store and they have 1 gauge (car store didn't even have 1 gauge) for $2/ft. And it's that super flexible welder cable too. I also ordered another battery disconnect switch on ebay so I can wire this 2k inverter directly to my battery bank and still be able to shut it off from the battery bay. I had wired the 600 watt inverter to a lug just after the existing battery disconnect switch. I'll leave that one there.
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I needed heavy duty cables to power a moveable winch on my mudboat. Welding cables fit the bill. After three years they remain very flexible. They are impervious to mud and oil, and you can walk on them with no ill effect. I have been curious why these have not become a more popular alternative to $4.00 per foot standard wire.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:35 PM   #65
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Hey Bob,

So why did you mount your inverter so far from your batteries? My house batteries are beside the truck batteries. I am happy with my current set up but I want to power my tv's with an inverter as we go down the road. Just have to figure how to get a dedicated outlet for the items I want to run thru the inverter. By the time I get thru finding where that white wire goes I might have it figured out. LOL


sam
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:18 PM   #66
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Sam, my house batteries (2 12 volt deep cycle, I think like group 27 or something?) are in the storage bay directly underneath that night stand where I mounted the inverter. I didn't want to mount the inverter in that storage bay, I wanted it inside where it would be protected from the elements and I could see it and operate it easily. I had thought I had used 8' cable to connect it. But I just looked and in fact the cables are 6'. So, that's pretty close I'd say. My truck chassis batteries are way up front on the left side, just behind the back wall of the cab. I'd guess 25' since my living quarters are 26'. There are three of those huge truck batteries there. They do have a large cable running from there back to the battery bay. And I have a large round switch that I can set to provide house 12 volts via the front batteries, the house batteries, or all 5. Generally when I'm rolling down the road I have all 5 tied together so the engine charges them all up. Then when I'm camping I usually switch to just use the house batteries. That way I don't run the chassis batts down and can't start the motor. The chassis batts also start the generator on my rig. I often shut the breaker off that powers the Iota charger/converter in my house battery bay. I like to do that to give those batteries some exercise. It's real easy from inside to do that. Then when I notice the lights seem a bit dim I just switch that breaker back on to charge it all up. Works pretty good I think.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:50 PM   #67
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Bob, I am learning that these coaches are custom all the way. I am not aware that I can charge the house batteries as I motor down the road. That would be nice, and I am sure there would be some sort of switching thing to keep things from frying.
I believe my gen uses the house batteries to start, I have a switch that when I have run my batteries down I can push to start the gen.

Maybe by the time I figure out my white wire I will even know more.

sam
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:04 PM   #68
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It has taken me years to figure out what I know about my rig. And I'm pretty sure I don't know everything about it yet. If I was you I would check the voltage on my house batteries. Then check the chassis battery voltage. If it's different they are separated. Now, try switching some switches that you don't know what they do. And check again. You might just find the voltage the same. That will show you they are now electrically mated. I'm pretty sure there has got to be a way to connect them, and disconnect them. If the voltage was the same at the first test then start switching switches and checking voltage until you get them to be different.
I think Bushpilot's Haulmark rig is set up so the house batteries start the generator. I see pro's and con's to both ways.

I'll bet you could send a email to Renegade customer service asking where the switch is to separate the batteries. Mine is a big round thing in the battery compartment. I think they have electronic ones that use a smaller switch but have a larger box wired in that does the switching.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:08 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by samcrimm View Post
Bob, I am learning that these coaches are custom all the way. I am not aware that I can charge the house batteries as I motor down the road. That would be nice, and I am sure there would be some sort of switching thing to keep things from frying.
I believe my gen uses the house batteries to start, I have a switch that when I have run my batteries down I can push to start the gen.

Maybe by the time I figure out my white wire I will even know more.

sam
Sam, i would be surprised if your house batts aren't charged when the engine is running.

Our house batteries get charged by the engine alternator when the engine is running.

When the generator is running, it also charges the batteries (via the converter/charger).

the generator does (usually) rely on the house batteries to start, once the generator is running the AC powered Converter/Charger will recover/maintain the house batteries (but not, usually, the engine batteries).

put a meter on the house batteries (when you're disconnected from shore power) - whats the voltage? then start the coach engine & check the house battery voltage.

if you don't see an increase (charge) voltage on the house batteries with the engine running you may want to consider adding a simple and inexpensive battery isolation relay between the engine batteries and the house batteries.

the battery isolation relay will "combine" allow (charge) voltage to flow to the house batteries when the engine alternator is outputting. When the engine is not running (and there is no charge output from the engine alternator) the Isolation Relay will electrically isolate or separate the house batteries from the engine batteries.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:18 PM   #70
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I put the meter on the two sets of batteries and with the engine running and nope not connected. Sounds like I need the relay.

Thanks for the input

Sam




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Sam, i would be surprised if your house batts aren't charged when the engine is running.

Our house batteries get charged by the engine alternator when the engine is running.

When the generator is running, it also charges the batteries (via the converter/charger).

the generator does (usually) rely on the house batteries to start, once the generator is running the AC powered Converter/Charger will recover/maintain the house batteries (but not, usually, the engine batteries).

put a meter on the house batteries (when you're disconnected from shore power) - whats the voltage? then start the coach engine & check the house battery voltage.

if you don't see an increase (charge) voltage on the house batteries with the engine running you may want to consider adding a simple and inexpensive battery isolation relay between the engine batteries and the house batteries.

the battery isolation relay will "combine" allow (charge) voltage to flow to the house batteries when the engine alternator is outputting. When the engine is not running (and there is no charge output from the engine alternator) the Isolation Relay will electrically isolate or separate the house batteries from the engine batteries.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:36 PM   #71
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I put the meter on the two sets of batteries and with the engine running and nope not connected. Sounds like I need the relay.

Thanks for the input

Sam
no problem....im just here to help you spend your money
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:09 PM   #72
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They had to have wired it to charge the house batteries with the engine/alternator. On mine they ran it through a accessory switch on the dash. That switch wasn't even marked. I had to call the builder (lucky they were still in business at that time) and he told me about that switch. I'd bet you have some switch somewhere to allow you to tie them together. It certainly could be an auto switch like Don talked about too. But there has got to be something somewhere. Just have to figure out where. Did you call Renegade yet? Or maybe you could send a private message to Jack Wheeler. He used to work at Renegade and now works at Showhauler. He's a member of our Truck Conversion, and Super Class C Facebook groups.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:39 PM   #73
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Bob check my white wire thread, and no call yet. I tryed when I first got the rv and they called me back once and I missed that call,and then I tried several time after that with no luck I even sent an email. That why I have you guys to help me sort this all out!
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:14 PM   #74
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Well, the plot thickens. I got the 2k inverter all installed. It runs the fridge for about 5 minutes and then starts giving me a beep about every 30 seconds and flashes the 04 error code. The manual says that's an overheat code. Then the display goes back to the voltage/watts reading until it beeps again and flashes the error. It keeps doing this. If I have the fridge door open when it beeps the light and motor go off momentarily and then come back on. I don't think it's overheating. The thing is only showing it putting out about 110 watts when it's running. And the cooling fans haven't come on. I called the tech support number and Sean told me he suspects a logic problem. He said to disconnect the inverter from power for 2 hours. He also suggested if that doesn't work I should run a cord direct from the fridge to the inverter. Well, the reset didn't solve it. Still acts the same. So I plugged it directly into the inverter (bypassing the auto switch) and still it works the same. I tried unplugging the fridge and plugging a 32" led tv. It ran the tv fine for about 15 minutes (had to leave but I suspect it would have run forever that way). I can run the fridge on shore power without any indication of a overload. And, I'm only plugging my coach into a 20 amp wall socket. Even with the fridge and my 55 amp converter/charger running it won't trip that wall breaker. I just don't think it's overloading the inverter. If that were the case wouldn't it trip it right off when the compressor kicks on? It seems there is some sort of other problem. I'll be calling Sean again tomorrow to see what he suggests. Just thought I'd post here in case anybody has any other ideas. I'm thinking the 600 watt inverter wasn't the problem either since that runs it for several minutes before doing the same thing. Oh well. I hope I get it figured out. I did take a bunch of pictures showing the rest of the install. No time to post now though. Good night.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:41 PM   #75
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I once had a similar experience with an inverter that would kick out on overheat when I really did not think it should of been doing it. It turned out to be the batteries. I do not remember the technical term for it, but basically the battery voltage would drop to where the inverter was pulling too many amps trying to meet the need at low voltage and it would cause the overheating issue. They would start out fine, but quickly loose power. When I had them put on a load test, it showed up. Just an idea, but you may want to verify the batteries. Good luck, I know it can be really frustrating.
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:16 AM   #76
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Bob,

I was going to suggest essentially the same thing as dtchild1. The question becomes how to test it--testing the batteries would identify a bad battery, but wouldn't be conclusive in showing that voltage isn't dropping when the fridge tries starting.

I would try connecting a test light (or ideally an analog voltmeter) at the inverter's input terminals. A digital meter (at least typical consumer grade) isn't going to show a momentary drop. Depending on how hard it is to get to the stuff, I could also see testing with a regular starting battery in parallel with what you already have just to help narrow down what's going on. I'm still a little surprised that the 600W inverter couldn't do it, but the compressor does briefly demand quite a bit--but for a short enough time that it wouldn't trip a thermal circuit breaker.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:36 AM   #77
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I think you guys are correct. I did some testing yesterday. With my 55 amp Iota converter/charger turned on the inverter runs the fridge just fine. When I shut off the Iota the fridge won't start. I think my batteries are several years old. I only have two 12 volt group 24 batteries. I do have 3 chassis batteries, the big huge truck kind. The truck batteries are connected back to the chassis batteries but I'm not sure what size wire was used for that. And, it's about 26' from the truck batteries to the house batteries. There is a switch to tie all 5 together. Even with all 5 the inverter doesn't want to start the fridge up. Yet when I turn on the Iota it will work. I'm pretty sure my truck batteries are good because the engine cranks over real fast. I don't like to use the truck batteries for household needs because I don't want to risk running them down and not being able to start the motor (or generator, which starts via the truck batteries). When I watch the display on the inverter it shows mid 12 volts yet it still won't start the fridge. When I turn on the Iota the inverter display shows about 13.4 to 13.6. Seems like mid 12 volts should still start the fridge. But if the batteries are weak could they still be at that voltage but not have enough amps to kick on the fridge compressor? The inverter does run the lights in the fridge but won't start the compressor. I ran the fridge until it was cold enough to shut off the compressor and then switch off the Iota. And then open the doors on the fridge to let it warm up and call for cold and the inverter will beep and the compressor won't start up. I had to shut off power to the fridge and then turn on the Iota and power up the inverter and it would kick on the compressor right away. I wired the inverter with 1 gauge welder cable. It's about 7' of wire from the battery compartment up to the inverter. I can pull the batteries and take them to my battery guy and have him put a load test on them. But, I'm thinking I should take them out and install 2 golf cart type 6 volt batteries in their place. Wired in series of coarse. Pretty sure I can fit them in where the 12 volt ones come out. I've always thought that might be a better way to go anyway for all the other house 12 volt needs. It also looks like there is room along my frame back there to mount a truck type battery box and put a couple more 6 volt batteries there and add to the system. Any thoughts from you guys about all this? Thanks!!
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:49 AM   #78
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:50 AM   #79
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:51 AM   #80
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