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Old 10-30-2016, 11:57 AM   #1
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Default Toter purchase advice

I am ready to move from a 42ft American Tradition MH(400HP) to a toter. Been dragging around a 20ft stacker with race car, spares, tools, tires etc weighing ~14K for 10 years and lately pulling a 8K Hummer on a utility trailer to and from the Mtns for offroading. Wore out the 300K rated dif at 110K miles. I definitely need a toter but know little about them.
Questions: 1. approx HP needed
2. Twin vs single screw
3. Approx reasonable buying vs asking prices(MH markups are huge and I know nothing about toter and Mtr coache markups. Do not want to insult anyone with unreasonable offers and I hate that offer/counter offer game). Prices are all over the place and it seems that there is no easy way to know how many miles are on the donor chassis/engine.I will get killed on the trade in on my MH because of it's age and mileage so at the risk of being tacky, approx $ am I looking at to get into a used toter? Will 90 to 130K get me into something reasonable for what I want to do?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated and I value comments from forum members who have been there and done that and have no reason to BS.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:11 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum. I don't know much about heavy towing, but I can tell you that I think you've come to the right place for your question. The participants here were a great help with my purchase.

After spending last summer/fall shopping for and purchasing my truck conversion, I can say that I think your price range is reasonable, so long as your expectations for newness aren't too high. You can get the power, but maybe not the glitz at that price point. Best of luck!
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:32 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petrel View Post
Welcome to the forum. I don't know much about heavy towing, but I can tell you that I think you've come to the right place for your question. The participants here were a great help with my purchase.

After spending last summer/fall shopping for and purchasing my truck conversion, I can say that I think your price range is reasonable, so long as your expectations for newness aren't too high. You can get the power, but maybe not the glitz at that price point. Best of luck!
Thanks for the quick reply Petrel.

Understand about the Glitz. Have that with the MH and that can be added with wall tile and mirrors very cheaply but I need a "manly" rig now and not as long as the MH. Less length and more grunt. My wife no longer travels with me which is good. Much quieter and less hassle!
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalGerBrit View Post
I am ready to move from a 42ft American Tradition MH(400HP) to a toter. Been dragging around a 20ft stacker with race car, spares, tools, tires etc weighing ~14K for 10 years and lately pulling a 8K Hummer on a utility trailer to and from the Mtns for offroading. Wore out the 300K rated dif at 110K miles. I definitely need a toter but know little about them.

QUOTE=ItalGerBrit;46261]
Questions: 1. approx HP needed
Man i almost bought an American, super nice coaches.

As for Horsepower.....get as much as you can afford...then borrow for what you need

Our MBE 4000 / DD13, 450HP (1650 tq) should be plenty. I know plenty who tow 30+ foot stackers with our engine/trans.

Our (single screw, 3.21 rear) and its 450hp (12.8L intercooler turbo) has no problem pulling a 11k lb trailer (topping us out around 43k lbs).

There are models available w/ up to 600+ horse (north of 1800 ft lbs).

I think you'll find w/ our smart shift virtual automatics (dry clutch, not a torque converter) the 12-13 forward (and 2 reverse) gears will serve you just fine....i can out run/out pull just about any pusher on any mountain grade w/ any load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalGerBrit View Post

2. Twin vs single screw
the nice thing about our twin screws is the on demand lockers (independent for each axle) and the ability to lock the axles together (ala 4 wheel drive or 8 tire drive).

the down side is cost of tires, and turning radius (since we can't life either drive axle).

you'd be hard pressed to exceed the GCWR capacity of a twin screw, but i think you may suffer some mpg too.

I have seen 10mpg towing 11k lbs (22', 2 axle car trailer).


Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalGerBrit View Post
3. Approx reasonable buying vs asking prices(MH markups are huge and I know nothing about toter and Mtr coache markups. Do not want to insult anyone with unreasonable offers and I hate that offer/counter offer game). Prices are all over the place and it seems that there is no easy way to know how many miles are on the donor chassis/engine.I will get killed on the trade in on my MH because of it's age and mileage so at the risk of being tacky, approx $ am I looking at to get into a used toter? Will 90 to 130K get me into something reasonable for what I want to do?
its a buyers market.

I was close to the low end of your range 5 yrs ago when we bought our coach.
you should be able to buy a toter for the low end of your range (if not even lower). I would expect (depending on the condition) that you could buy a full on coach (42' or more) for the range you mention.

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Old 11-01-2016, 08:35 AM   #5
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one consideration that no one has mentioned yet is legality. Some states are requiring "toter homes" ie fifth wheel OR gooseneck to be registered commercial only. While "truck conversions" that use a bumper hitch to be registered as RVs. One of my customers bought his toter and assumed he could get an rv tag. He found out that the 3 states he owns homes in would only tag it commercially. I actually played heck getting mine re titled in Florida as an RV.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:50 AM   #6
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Thanks guys. Just the type advice I was looking for and thanks for the pic.

I will not be pulling a gooseneck or 5th wheel and only need a hitch for my two different trailers so no problem with license. Fairly sure that I do not need more than 32 foot box room wise and would like a shorter total length for easier
maneuverability. I have been busted in Texas for being over total length with my MH/trailer so the shorter length toter will help in that regard as well.

So it looks as though you guys think that a twin screw might be overkill and added expense and maintenance for what I will be doing? I have always done the complete service and most of the repairs on my MH myself and have heard that these things are easier to work on. Any experience with that?

Any idea about the typical markup on used toters/Mtr Coaches? Looks like best site for shopping is RacingJunk?

Feel free to keep the advice coming. I love it!
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Old 11-01-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
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I assumed that were talking about buying (an already titled "true" toter (aka 5er/gn hitch), not converting a tractor to a toter.

In my mind a (real) TOTER has living quarters....like THIS one (forsale in Arizona) LINK
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:06 PM   #8
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That's what I had in mind as a toter too.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:17 PM   #9
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A lot of the "toters" are never retitled. They seem to leave that up to the new owners. Many are sold into states that don't require a cdl for non commercial and are still titled as an HDT. My customer had a toter that he purchased brand new. Since he bought it with a Montana LLC, they never retitled it as a MH. So when he went to register it privately he found out that he could not, and Florida demanded he get a CDL and carry commercial insurance. He ended up ordering a new truck conversion with a tag trailer. BTW it was a big name toter but shall remain un named.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:19 PM   #10
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More and more states are going after the "pro" teams that are skirting the law by using toters instead of properly getting DOT numbers and paying fuel taxes.
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