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Old 02-15-2017, 10:56 AM   #81
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Wrapped up the ceiling


Sanded and stained last night. Changing color


First coat done

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Old 02-20-2017, 10:00 AM   #82
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Cleaned the garage last night. I now have about about 6'x15' of usable space. Soon to be cabinet shop.... Also found out the cabover is still leaking.... Ugh. We got more than an inch of rain yesterday, once it drys out a bit Ill have to caulk it from the outside.

Knocked out the bed frame. Its dimensions kinda drive everything.



I love these splices. Crimp on, self adhesive shrink wrapped. Good stuff.


Got the LED exterior light done.
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:01 AM   #83
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Fan trims and interior pucks in.


I had to hook them up to see if it was going to be enough light. I was worried it wouldn't be as they are quite small. Its a good amount of light!


Started framing up the rear storage/wall. Its 1" .072 steel, this give me a 1" area I can insulate, and gives me some structure to support the bath wall from.


In place. This will be the exterior storage.
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:04 AM   #84
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Bathroom wall and bed frame just about done. Cutting stupid angles with a skill saw sucks.


18" clear under the bed frame for storage. The plan is to have it lift up for access from inside.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:33 AM   #85
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Got a fair bit done yesterday.

Cabinet will separate the bed/dinette area. The bottom will have a pull out drawer for trash and recycle. The middle will be a pantry drawer, and the top will be a shelf open to the dinette side. It also created the back and base of the bench seat.



Bench sitting in place. Heater or water tank will go here. Like heater so its closer to the center of the truck, but that means small water tank..... Thoughts on heater not close to center? It would go right at the front wall, under the other bench.



All together

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Old 02-23-2017, 04:28 PM   #86
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Thoughts on heater not close to center?
FWIW... We run an electric heater placed in the center of the cab. This keeps the cold air coming through the cab cut out at a minimum and blows all the warm air back. Of course the generator runs more frequently (to power boot dryers, heater and dehumidifiers), however in the winter our goal is to keep the moisture down with all the people and wet snow gear.

Go for the bigger water tank under the dinette bench!
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Old 02-23-2017, 04:32 PM   #87
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FWIW... We run an electric heater placed in the center of the cab. This keeps the cold air coming through the cab cut out at a minimum and blows all the warm air back. Of course the generator runs more frequently (to power boot dryers, heater and dehumidifiers), however in the winter our goal is to keep the moisture down with all the people and wet snow gear.

Go for the bigger water tank under the dinette bench!
Thanks! Im leaning that way.... I need to make sure I can get the heater into the front bench also, exhaust has to get out the floor, and the gas tank is right there. Its only a 12' box, heat will travel around. Im planning to cover the cab access with a moving blanket type thing when parked.

What dehumidifier do you run? We just have had heat only. In trying to keep 120V loads to a minimum though, small generator and inverter.
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Old 02-23-2017, 04:46 PM   #88
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Good call on the moving blanket, we have been exploring options but we store so much in the front seats at this point, whatever we had in place would get destroyed/torn down.

To keep loads down I would try out some Eva-Dry 500's. We have 5 of them placed throughout the bathroom, cabinets, galley etc. They require no power to operate and you can recharge them when back at home. In addition, we run (2) Eva-Dry EDV-4000 (1 in the garage, 1 in the house portion). You could always run a 15 amp extension cord out from the house and keep it running when parked at home. We leave ours on when at home, just to help dry everything out. https://www.eva-dry.com

Appreciate the ExPo style build thread you have going over here, thanks for sharing.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:44 PM   #89
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any consideration for access to the under bed storage from INSIDE the RV?

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Old 02-23-2017, 10:09 PM   #90
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Yes! That's why I did the steel frame. It will be on gas struts and hinged at the back door. Ski boot etc storage will be under there. Also the batteries and inverter.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:18 PM   #91
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Yes! That's why I did the steel frame. It will be on gas struts and hinged at the back door. Ski boot etc storage will be under there. Also the batteries and inverter.
understand there is planned access from the back door.
just looked like there might be a good access point (behind the board) from the INSIDE living quarters.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:39 PM   #92
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understand there is planned access from the back door.
just looked like there might be a good access point (behind the board) from the INSIDE living quarters.
No no, it will pivot at the back door and lift up at the front (by the angled section) should provide a fair bit of storage there.
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:59 AM   #93
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Spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my reverse lights dont work... Fuse is good, swapping relays made no difference. Im getting ~half a volt at the light connections.

So possibly a break in the wire somewhere, which I think is unlikely, all the rest of the wiring has been impeccable, and the tail lights still work, or the reverse switch at the trans is toast.

Other half of the dinette sitting in place


Im thinking heater and water pump will go here, just have to check that I can sneak the intake and exhaust out, its right above the gas tank. I will have to build a riser for the heater to sit on as well, not quite enough room with gas filler box there.


Stove came too, ebay special with dents... But its got a nice flip down glass top for when its not in use.


Pulled the tail light panels. Lots of room there. Need to figure out how to put them on a quick release. Ill take ideas there!! Passenger side will get poop tank, drivers will get gas tank for the heater.
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:02 PM   #94
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Spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my reverse lights dont work... Fuse is good, swapping relays made no difference. Im getting ~half a volt at the light connections.
possible short to ground?
you'd think a short would blow the fuse - but I've seen myself that doesnt always happen.

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Pulled the tail light panels. Lots of room there. Need to figure out how to put them on a quick release. Ill take ideas there!! Passenger side will get poop tank, drivers will get gas tank for the heater.
universally the dump / drains are on the drivers side...I know you don't "camp" in the traditional (park) sites but even the rest area / fueling station dumps are set up for the DRIVERS side.

certainly you can put it anywhere you want - but you'll likely need more hose to reach the standard dump tanks.
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:18 PM   #95
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possible short to ground?
you'd think a short would blow the fuse - but I've seen myself that doesnt always happen.



universally the dump / drains are on the drivers side...I know you don't "camp" in the traditional (park) sites but even the rest area / fueling station dumps are set up for the DRIVERS side.

certainly you can put it anywhere you want - but you'll likely need more hose to reach the standard dump tanks.
Yeah I was thinking possibly a bad ground, I am inclined to think ground would be shared between brake/tail and reverse but who knows. The brake/tail still work.


Yes I know its generally drivers side. I just cant get the plumbing over there with my layout. The dump is actually going to come out the back.... So it will be even more weird... I dont plan to be at hook ups often, but a long hose is likely in order. The spot I dump at 99% of the time I can back up to, its a private park with lots of room at the dump station. Other places all bets are off. Worse come to worse a macerater ejector can be used pretty easily to get it over to the drivers side in a small hose.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:08 PM   #96
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Yes I know its generally drivers side. I just cant get the plumbing over there with my layout. The dump is actually going to come out the back.... So it will be even more weird... I dont plan to be at hook ups often, but a long hose is likely in order. The spot I dump at 99% of the time I can back up to, its a private park with lots of room at the dump station. Other places all bets are off. Worse come to worse a macerater ejector can be used pretty easily to get it over to the drivers side in a small hose.
I knew you had it figured out, but thought it was worth having in the thread too.

I've never used a macerator, all I ever hear is people complain about them getting "gunk-ed" up w/ hair etc.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:15 PM   #97
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I knew you had it figured out, but thought it was worth having in the thread too.

I've never used a macerator, all I ever hear is people complain about them getting "gunk-ed" up w/ hair etc.
I appreciate the input as always!! Im making this up as I go so its always good.

Yeah I never have used one either.... Its black only so no hair, but I hope to not need one
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:16 PM   #98
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I've never used a macerator, all I ever hear is people complain about them getting "gunk-ed" up w/ hair etc.
We have a macerator and it works extremely well...as long as you keep the hair out. We have drain protectors in the shower and bathroom sink to keep the hair to a minimum. We purchased the rig used and shortly after purchase had to replace the macerator. The original one was fried, found plastic, hair and other fine bits in the blades.
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:47 PM   #99
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For the tail light plates. How about welding bolts to those flanges there on each side. Then drill holes in your plates. Slip the plates onto the studs (bolts you welded in) and spin some nuts down.
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Old 02-27-2017, 11:59 AM   #100
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For the tail light plates. How about welding bolts to those flanges there on each side. Then drill holes in your plates. Slip the plates onto the studs (bolts you welded in) and spin some nuts down.
Thats definitely an option. Im going to try Dzus fasteners and see if they will hold.

Cut hole for heater intake and exhaust


Bolt down heater and run exhaust.


Put the slats on the bed. One skinny one since math is hard.
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