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Old 06-21-2010, 08:09 PM   #21
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heading back to elkhart again this weekend. have to tow a wrecked semi tractor to mattawan michigan. spend the night there or in elkhart depending on delivery time. still waiting for my son to post pictures on tag axle. he just got back from florida.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:00 PM   #22
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I have a very long list of items I bought in Elkhart that I either didn't use or I have already replaced.

formentioned windows, 2 black tanks, complete shower unit, lots of plumbing fittings, a Wal*Mart sack full of rv outlets and light switches. and a few other items like some table leg tubes outside shower kit, propane extension hose, some latches and a few cargo doors.

oh and did I mention that my 450 dollar surplus Xantrex Inverter craped out and needed a $1100.00 circuit board? Have a new (rebuilt) unit for $1200 just arrived UPS.

My plan was, I had an idea of what I was going to build, then I bought the parts to design around. Then the build happens, and unforseen things come up like the widows were all for the right side, and other things don't fit. The builders bought new parts 'cuz they didn't look in the box for the surplus ones etc. now I'm north of 70 grand into a 50K project and after 1 trip I have my interior all ripped out of the bathroom to replace the surplus inverter, which required the ripping out of the shower and closet so 400 dollars later I bought a new shower assembly at Menards. When you are already underwater on a project like this, what's another 400 bucks for a shower that you can get in and out of easily and a bigger closet?

The problem with the Elkhart stuff is, because you get a good deal on it, you design around it the part, rather than good design in the first place.

Good luck with your project! If you see anything on my above list of extras let me know! I'd like to rid myself of the memories!
-blizz
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:14 PM   #23
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thanks for the advice. main thing i'm looking for is a basement heat pump unit. already got right side windows on first trip. didn't know about left & right windows till i got back home. luckly didn't get all windows needed first trip. may be interested in electric and plumbing parts when i get that far. we have been busy at shop and guys taking vacations. haven't been able to work on it at all. when i get back i'm going to hit it hard again. don't know much about heat pumps but want to keep roof as clean as possible. a friend has one and says its great.
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Old 06-26-2010, 06:39 PM   #24
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well only bought twin fold down wall bed ($499.00) , water pump ($165.00) and tank sensors & monitor ($35.00) lp gas detector ($75.00). plus tax on all items. was a nice trip. a light rain only when sleeping in truck stop.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #25
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Wow, big project! Post up progress pics when you can. Looks like a neat truck.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:45 PM   #26
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just started working on truck again. almost done with lower frame for floor. had it almost all done. some one seems to keep moving lines on me. had to grind back apart and do about 5 feet again. still dont know how i can measure several times and still come up wrong. maybe i need new tape measure or glasses. probley both. only thing i know is i will grind it apart till i'm happy with it. sent my son out to elk hart for basement a/c & furnace uint. also picked up toy hauler rear door. exchanged right side windows for new windows for both sides. didn't have left windows to match old right ones.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:59 PM   #27
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Oh my, that's the story of my life. One of the reasons I don't do wood, can't grind that apart and re-work like metal. Keep at it.
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Old 08-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #28
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finished floor on Saturday. going to do roof next and then raise up to weld sides on. anyone do it this way? or did you do sides first? anyone know where to buy outside paneling around northern Il.? did anyone put any thing between framing and outer panels to keep from getting waving down sides?
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:54 PM   #29
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got roof done this weekend. taking coach off frame to do sides next. will post pictures this week. anyone know how far vents for bathroom need to be above roof? also how high are most tv antennas? do they make them to mount on side or rear?
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:41 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by volvoman:
got roof done this weekend. taking coach off frame to do sides next. will post pictures this week. anyone know how far vents for bathroom need to be above roof? also how high are most tv antennas? do they make them to mount on side or rear?
My vents due to the low clearance on the garage door; only extend above the roof by a 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Just enough to get a good seal of silicone or roof sealant. If rain gets in there it just goes to the black or gray tank anyway.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:44 AM   #31
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Going from memory here... I think my Weingard TV antenna sticks up about 6 to 8 inches when the antenna is layed down flat. (It cranks up for use). The high point is the loop of co-ax cable at the antenna base. It would probably bend out of the way if something touched it. The next high point is part of the lazy-susan type casting at the antenna base. It stick up about 6 inches as I recall. You can see pictures of the antenna in question in the picture gallery under keyword "Stealth".
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:58 PM   #32
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got roof up in place and tack welded. toy hauler door is in place and working on hinges. getting to where i can work on it with out help for awhile. will post pictures this week. found a sticker on door that says 3000 lb cap. but no cars. not sure if i should try to load a pickup or not. thinking about now using ramps.
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:09 PM   #33
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NEW PICTURES ARE UP!
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:30 PM   #34
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Looks good. Interesting build. I didn't realize you are building the box on the ground. Are you going to build the whole thing there and then hoist it up on the truck frame? I didn't see pictures showing that mid axle. Did I miss them?
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:31 PM   #35
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Bob i built floor and roof frame on truck frame. then i set both on the floor. framed for rear ramp door and then raised roof over door and installed 6 up rite post to temporally hold in place. next step is to square up and weld posts in place. than i think i will put plywood on roof and then set back up onto truck. pictures 19 through 23 are tag axle. i am thinking about doing outer walls, floor and roof before doing inside.
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:41 PM   #36
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put back end back on truck. leveled everything again. got uprights for side walls on about 1/2 way on each side. another guy and me are working on it every saturday for about 8 hrs each.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:55 PM   #37
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You want to line the inner walls first, then wire outlets, and plumb everything, then have it spay insulated and shave the foam level, then put the outer skin on it. Much easier that way.
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:57 AM   #38
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I plan on linning the interior first as Blizz stated.My question to everyone is what is the best to use for linning? Luan,3/8 plywood,1/2 plywood or something else?
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:39 PM   #39
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when you guys say you went to elkhart indiana, I am just wondering what store you go to. I may check it out I caould ues some nice windows for my build.
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:45 AM   #40
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there are 2 places i have been to. they are almost across the street from each other. i think they are 2 blocks apart.
1st one is rv surplus & salvage 1400 w Bristol st Elkhart id 46514 ph # 547-264-5575. they have a large warehouse kind of set up like a flee market. vary busy or short handed. need to know what your looking for and everything about it. www.rvsurplus.net
2nd one is factory rv surplus 1611 west Bristol st ph # 800-325-1461.
they have surplus and new items, mainly. seen to have more time to work with you. www.factoryrvsurplus.com email factoryrvsurplus@verizion.net
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