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Old 06-11-2013, 11:36 PM   #21
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I'm committed now!


Big hole...






Perfect fit!
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:36 PM   #22
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Interior
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:29 AM   #23
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Looks nice. Looks like you're going to use one of those metal spikes that pushes into a rubber stopper to keep it open? I didn't have much luck with that type on my rig. I switched to the plastic t-bar kind of thing with the plastic fitting on the door that you hook the bar into to keep it open. The rubber deal didn't hold good enough in the wind. I left the rubber deal on because it makes a good stopper when the door swings open so it doesn't smash into the siding. I bought the plastic bar thing slightly longer than the steel spike thing so when it's hooked open the steel spike thing doesn't quite reach the rubber thing.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:13 AM   #24
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We always put these on our race trailers. They work very well.

Steel 4" Tstyle Side Door Latch Holder Holdback Hook RV | eBay
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:25 PM   #25
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ditto on bmzero's opinion. I use the stainless t-bar style as well. Both my trailers that had the plastic bar failed and I switched to the metal one. I found that a strong wind pushing the door towards the trailer when latched open would flex the t-bar, then it would pop out when the wind blew the other way. The metal version is bullet proof.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:00 AM   #26
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Lots of progress this week and weekend. I'm very happy with the outcome so far. It isn't the Taj Mahal, but it's exactly the usable platform I had hoped for.

Door reinforced with 1-1/4" aluminum channel. This made a HUGE difference in the sold feel when shutting the door.


Bunk platform is complete. Next up for the bunk is insulating the walls, covering the walls with .040 aluminum, and covering the floor with the same aluminum.


Entire ceiling has been insulated.


Interior lighting is mocked up. I still have to wire in the switches and 24V system.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:16 PM   #27
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Progress updates.

Wheels sand blasted and powder coated black.


Interior AC panel installed. Added a handful of AC outlets on the inside of the truck.


24V/12V battery charger/maintainer and 3-bank battery status monitor installed.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:17 PM   #28
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Fridge/freezer


Fridge/freezer slide


Travel latch
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #29
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Looking great.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:23 PM   #30
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where did you the slide brackets? by the way, you are doing a great job in short amount of time.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:10 PM   #31
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Quote:
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where did you the slide brackets? by the way, you are doing a great job in short amount of time.
Those are drawer slides from Lowes. They're rated at 200# together.

I appreciate the compliments. I'm really happy with the way it's turning out.


thanks,
-b
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:59 PM   #32
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Thanks for the updates and images of your project. We are also looking at purchasing a 17' UHaul and are interested in updated pictures of your mounted compressor, tanks and generator.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:56 PM   #33
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i got mine at Cabinet Drawer Slides, Glides, Hinges, & Hardware | Shop, Buy and SAVE at DrawerSlides.com

iirc mine are rated for 500 lbs.....for our 63 quart 'lectic cooler (more than 100 cans w/ room to spare).





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Old 08-12-2013, 10:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Then, I need to find a proper AC/DC cooler/freezer. I'm currently debating the ARB cooler (ARB Portable Fridge Freezers | ARB 4x4 Accessories) and the EdgeStar (EdgeStar 12V DC Portable Fridge / Freezer - 43 Qt. - FP430). Both have the AC/DC switching, so no benefit there to either one. If you have any experience with either of these coolers, please let me know.
ive got an edgestar 63qt - great cooler, mine hasnt turned off in over 2 yrs now....its either running on 12v or 110, but never off since i installed it.

friend of mine has the same cooler in his quigley van (e350)...he's had his 4 yrs and same thing - either on 12v or 110, never turned off.

ours has been flawless - absolutely love not having to worry about ice or buying ice.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:29 AM   #35
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what type of screws, rivets etc are you on the interior walls?
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:05 PM   #36
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what type of screws, rivets etc are you on the interior walls?
The walls on the Uhaul vans are solid, so there are no wall "joists" in between and therefore don't have screws holding the walls together.

Does that answer your question?
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:15 PM   #37
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bmzero,

Rig came out great. Question harkening back to your first post... where did you find the corner caps to replace the dented ones on the top of the UHaul box? Mine are all dinged and I'd love to replace but can't find em.

thanks!
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:21 PM   #38
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bmzero,

Rig came out great. Question harkening back to your first post... where did you find the corner caps to replace the dented ones on the top of the UHaul box? Mine are all dinged and I'd love to replace but can't find em.

thanks!
Thanks. I appreciate the compliment.

I am about to list this truck for sale. I'm going bigger.

I got the corners at my local Uhaul store. They handle the repair work for the area. You can also get them here - http://epc.uhaul.com.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:23 PM   #39
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Much thanks, and good luck with your next project. Looking forward to seeing it.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:47 PM   #40
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Much thanks, and good luck with your next project. Looking forward to seeing it.
http://www.truckconversion.net/forum...v-hauler-7358/

Been at the dealership for the last few hours. Not a done deal yet.
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