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05-15-2013, 07:06 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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building a bigger bedroom
Since my family has started to travel with me, I have decided to build a bigger bedroom and take up some of the storage space in the back. All I had before was a single bunk. I am expanding it to a full size and a bunk overhead. I will start posting pictures soon. Wish me luck!
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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05-15-2013, 10:36 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rockford
Posts: 490
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so how many will it sleep when its done? lots of luck.
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05-16-2013, 11:11 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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from one bunk and expanding sofa to double bed, bunk, and an expanding sofa in the front. Since I moved the closet to the back, the next thing will be either two sofas or a sofa and a dinette in the front .... but that's getting ahead of myself.
These pics are from the hall looking back. All I had before was a side to side bunk. The space went from 30" deep to 70" deep. you can see where the wall was on the floor of the third picture
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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05-19-2013, 08:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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well I got the wall moved. It went from a 30" wide bunk to a 6' by 8' room. Next is the full size futon.
I actually got some help from my wife. I got a good one!
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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05-26-2013, 10:13 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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the water pump and such had to be reconfigured to fit the new futon/bed. The water heater has an extended cover that is strong enough to stand on it.
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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05-30-2013, 08:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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I ordered a foam/rubber floor for the new bedroom. anyone ever use this type of floor.
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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06-01-2013, 10:07 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Looking good Doc. The pass thru to the back (or is that the closet?) Looks like you made the door from plywood and some 2X3? I am still stuck on what to make my pass thru door from. Ordering a custom door for that is stoopid money.
Progress on my rig is slow, but getting there. this month I am adding underbody tool boxes to increase space inside, and upgrading to 50 amp power. Found a online dealer selling 8/4 wire for half what I can get it for anywhere else.
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06-01-2013, 04:10 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 483
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there is a closet in the corner. its actually a wardrobe from Ikea. The door to the back is homemade. I used to have a home door to the back and it fell apart constantly. This time I studded the wall with the appropriate space for a door, then walled the whole thing on the back side. I went back and framed the space where I wanted the door from the inside and attached it to the back wall. I cut the backside of the wall and added the hinges. All that was left was to insulate and add the front side. Its not perfect, but hopefully it will be more solid than the Home Depot special. lol
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Doc Weaver '98 Freightliner FL60 pseudo toy hauler
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06-09-2013, 01:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Our shop truck has cabinet doors that were made the same way. I will give it some thought. I might just leave the small doorway open instead. hang a full length curtain in the door way in case the back is open for whatever reason.
Ordered the wire the other day..it should arrive this week. 175 feet of 8/4. More than I needed for both length and wire size, but better to go big.. lol. I figure after I cut some for the outside box to the inside breaker panel, a little pigtail and a 50 to 30 amp pigtail, I should end up with 150 feet of lead line. way more than I will ever use.
Next stop, water heater. Its why I ordered the upgraded wire. No more heating water with the coffee pot for me.. lol.
I am still looking at the split air/heat unit. decent amount of money, but possibly worth it in the end. Is yours all electric or a propane/electric switch?
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06-10-2013, 12:49 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Starkweather
Posts: 41
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PM me if you want to sell 50-100 ft of that wire.
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06-10-2013, 02:52 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddywoofdawg
PM me if you want to sell 50-100 ft of that wire.
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Going to make a couple lead lines.. a 50 footer and a 100 footer, with a small 3 foot female/female connector in case I need all 150 feet. Which just shouldn't happen.. but who knows.. lol.
Decided to put a box on the outside of the truck to connect/disconnect to instead of wiring directly to the breaker panel. That way I can store the wire where ever I need too, rather than having it attached to the breakers and running through the house out the roll up door in the back. Less space for the critters to get in, lol.
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06-11-2013, 09:11 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819
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What about just putting a jack on the outside? Like the kind they have on houseboats and some 5th wheel trailers? Stop at a big marine store and see what they've got. Rather than a box I think it might look cleaner.
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'03 Freightliner FL112, 295" wheel base, with '03 United Specialties 26' living quarters, single screw, Cat C12 430 h/p 1650 torque, Eaton 10speed , 3.42 rear axle ratio
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06-11-2013, 12:15 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 527
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They call that a shore power connection. Common on boats and the occasional trailer. Very nice, very water tight, top of the line. A little pricey, I looked into that for my trailer to have a simple watertight "plug" on the outside of the trailer, and decided my existing 30A rv cord dropped out of the lower compartment would work fine as it was all paid for and I didn't want to spend that kind of money, plus add a new end on one of my cords or replace the cord. If I was starting over from scratch I'd go with the marine shore power connection, as I said, very nice system.
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06-15-2013, 05:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob86ZZ4
What about just putting a jack on the outside? Like the kind they have on houseboats and some 5th wheel trailers? Stop at a big marine store and see what they've got. Rather than a box I think it might look cleaner.
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I agree it would look nicer. But I don't have the prettiest rig on the planet, and never intended it to be. So the connection box I got for it will work. 50 bucks, and I have plenty of plumbers tape and sealant from the roof vent to watertight seal the back of it.
Overall, the project is coming along slowly. And I am doing it on a shoe string budget. May not be the prettiest rig out there, but it functions like it should
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