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Old 03-21-2010, 05:35 PM   #1
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Checked back on FRP vs. all others and some of the best discussion was from 04. Anything new on the subject in 2010?

Renegade and FRP sides look great, but wonder about strength, insulation, de-lamination, etc.

Anyone find fault with the Renegade FRP or should I only be looking at ShowHauler, Legend, etc.?

Thanx for any input.

Lar
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:02 PM   #2
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OBSOLETE IN THE TRAILER BUSINESS....PIA TO REPAIR BUT CAN BE DONE WITH ENOUGH TIME AND EFFORT....THERE ARE TRICKS TO IT THOUGH....geofkaye and the Rivercity Girlz....
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:07 AM   #3
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My truck was built with metal frame square tubing for the cage. Then over that on the outside they put .060 aluminum sheets. I see no rivits or screws so I'm guessing they glue the aluminum to the tubing. They put fiberglass insulation in the walls and the inside is covered with wood paneling. Mine is United Specialties. I'm extrememly happy with the quality of construction and would advise you to consider a truck from them.
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:12 PM   #4
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Bob: your unite is considered conventional FRAMING FRP is a plywood core with fiberglass on both sides...it is used on the exterior side only and the studs/ribs are exposed on the inside. only better wall would be one with aluminum on the outside with spray foam interior insulation and a glued on interior wall of plywood with a vinyl covering for moisture control....those walls are expensive to build because of the labor but the end result is a bullet proof/rot proof/wind proof/moisture proof wall.....one would make up the additional expense in savings on HVAC equipment and running costs over a number of years of "Living In"....the down side is proper ventilation usually mechanical and designing a system of keeping the interior and exterior air pressure the same in motion or parked.....geofkaye and the Rivercity Girlz..all and all you are in the best spot-construction wise-for the cost of the unite in most of the USA's weather......
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:28 PM   #5
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So guess I just missed a garage coach at Beck's, with the metal side walls... and I think Renegade's use FRP as the structure, no interior metal walls so suppose I should pass on those. They use stainless steel in the corners though.

I'd imagine that with complete fiberglass construction one would need an air to air exchanger somewhere in there.

Thanx for the 2010 updates.

Lar
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:07 PM   #6
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....WITH _ANY CONSTRUCTION_ THERE SHOULD BE AN AIR TO AIR HEAT EXCHANGER.....THE MORE A UNITE IS SEALED UP THE MORE THE UNITE NEEDS TO "BE HEALTHY" AND WE ARE TALKING AN AIR TO AIR EXCHANGER...."DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT ONE"...OR LEAVE A WINDOW OPEN AT NITE WHEN SLEEPING-HEATING AND COOLING THE OUTSIDE WORLD BUT VENTING MOISTURE AND CONTAMINATES... MOST OF THE USED UNITES HAVE MOLD AND CAUSE ALLERGIC ISSUES IN A LOT OF PEOPLE....SOME TO THE EXTENT THAT DESTRUCTION IS THE ONLY SOLUTION TO THE ISSUE SPECIALLY ON THE SOUTH......GEOFKAYE AND THE RIVERCITY GIRLZ....
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:03 AM   #7
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geofkaye
The toterhome I am building is framed using 2 inch 14ga tubing on 16 inch centers. I plan on using .060 alum on the outside using silkaflex with screws 0n the seams only. (matches my trailer) I want to use spray foam insulation but am unsure what would be best for this application.Closed cell or open cell foam? The open cell is eaiser to work with however it will absorb water like a sponge.All thoughts and ideas appreciated!
MMM
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:18 PM   #8
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....IF I WAS ABOUT TO START ON THE JOURNEY THAT YOU ARE STARTING...I'D PUT THE INTERIOR IN FIRST-THEN SPRAY CLOSED CELL FOAM AND THEN ADD THE ALUMINUM AS YOU HAVE OUTLINED...2 REASONS...1.) LESS CUTTING AND FITTING[I TAKE SHORT CUTS WHEN EVER POSSIBLE-AS I'M OLD!] 2.) THE FOAM IS ABOUT 135DEGREES WHEN IT LEAVES THE GUN AND WILL CAUSE THE ALUMINUM TO EXPAND AND RIPPLE-TO AVOID THIS ADD THE ALUMINUM LAST AFTER CLEANING OFF THE STUDS AND AS YOU HAVE SAID USE SILKAFLEX OR SOMETHING CLOSE-LIKE A 3M PRODUCT...INSULATE BETWEEN THE STEEL STUD AND THE ALUMINUM WITH A TAPE MATERIAL AND FINISH WITH SS SCREWS....I HAVE USED CLEAR PACKING TAPE AS AN INSULATOR AND HAVEN'T SEEN ANY DAMAGE TO THE ALUMINUM IN 8 YEARS....ANOTHER GUY USES WIDE ELECTRICAL TAPE....WHEN SPRAYING- FILL THE CAVITY CAREFULLY AND TAKE A BODY GRINDER WITH A 9"x16 GRIT DISC TO CLEAN OFF THE STUDS AND SMOOTH THE OVERAGE...I DID SEE A GUY WITH AN ELECTRIC TURKEY KNIFE ONCE AND A GUY WITH A HOT WIRE CUTTING FOAM.....geofkaye and the Rivercity Girlz....going to Louisville for the Mid-American Truck Show this weekend!
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:15 PM   #9
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Geo,
Say hi to Barry at the OOIDA booth(Owners, Operators, & Independent Drivers Assn.)while you're at the Mid-Am Show.
He's the only one (besides me) that has ever driven my conversion.

Bob E.
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:50 AM   #10
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Bob,
Hows the conversion going? I finally found enough time to work on mine while the weather was bad. Got the box framed in. Waiting on an entry door I ordered. I deceided to go with two opposing 72 inch slideouts.Still looking for some insight on building/installing slides.Stop by and visit when you have some time.
MMM
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