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Old 03-30-2020, 09:43 AM   #61
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In adding a ground wire I am thinking I am better off to run all new wiring?
Is there a good place to buy wiring that would be plug and play style? I know I probably need to add a connector to the end of the LED wires.
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:53 AM   #62
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It really depends on how the lights you selected are set up and what condition the existing wiring is in.

I doubt you could find an entire plug and play harness for a dry box. If there is already a hot wire, I'd just install a ground, starting at the plug (so it can be connected to truck ground and also grounded to the trailer frame), then just install a dropper for each light in the run, as you go along.
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Old 03-30-2020, 10:09 PM   #63
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I get the concept but you lost me. Anyplace I could see a video? What would I search under?
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Old 03-31-2020, 09:18 AM   #64
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https://seabeemagazine.navylive.dodl...ced-Part-4.pdf

This has a good wiring diagram. I apologize if I made this confusing. That is not the nature of the project, that is my inability to communicate clearly. Hope the link helps.
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Old 04-01-2020, 02:24 PM   #65
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Don’t put Romex in only stranded wire, if you got extra money go with marine grade. Are you going with DC or AC or mix, how are you going to power up, generator, solar or plug into RV parks?
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:21 PM   #66
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I’m not going to lie....I have no idea what you are asking.
The chicken lights will run off of the truck battery. What I am seeing so far is that I will run brand new two wire (one hot and one ground).
For my interior lights and outlets to run my refrigerator and outlets I wired it just like a house. I used an RV 50 amp cord and wired right into the main breaker on panel, just like I would at home. From each breaker I ran to to each appliance or outlet. I can plug into any normal outlet, through an adapter or plug into my generator.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:03 PM   #67
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In simple terms don't use solid wire that is used in homes to wire the interior and such, it will break over time with vibrations in the rig and cause a fire or short out. Use stranded wire such as you find in vehicles and use marine stranded wire if possible for best results.
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:48 AM   #68
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Got it and understand that part of it.
I have the bottom lights mounted down both sides of the trailer, 10 lights will go top and 10 lights bottom in each side.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:43 PM   #69
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On problem I have is that my side door locks from the outside. I need to have at least one escape route towards the front in case of fire. Previously I would have had to escape through the rear doors or leave the side door open all night.
So I decided to build a door behind the trailer door that I could lock. Not completely finished yet but roughed I’m anyway.
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Old 06-05-2020, 08:26 PM   #70
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New front door complete
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Old 06-09-2020, 05:01 PM   #71
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Quite an entrance.

I love the thought of some jackass going through all the trouble to crack the cargo doors and then presto! One more lock, assh0le.
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Old 06-09-2020, 05:07 PM   #72
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Weldman has a good point on marine wiring. I have noted some car manufacturers used to use a much more rubbery insulation on all the under vehicle wiring. I assume it is better at protecting from water, punctures, and crud. Marine wiring for exposed areas and non solid braided/strand wire for interior spaces might save some money.

I have no idea how much more expensive marine wire is. I do know it's a tough environment full of owners with more money than your average Joe Sixpack building a toterhome. Me included.
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Old 06-22-2020, 12:58 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntyrmvr View Post
Weldman has a good point on marine wiring. I have noted some car manufacturers used to use a much more rubbery insulation on all the under vehicle wiring. I assume it is better at protecting from water, punctures, and crud. Marine wiring for exposed areas and non solid braided/strand wire for interior spaces might save some money.

I have no idea how much more expensive marine wire is. I do know it's a tough environment full of owners with more money than your average Joe Sixpack building a toterhome. Me included.
Let's put it this way, for a foot of 4/0 marine wiring it's $13 a foot and I have about 20 feet in just the PV system
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:30 AM   #74
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That ain't cheap. Ouch.
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Old 06-22-2020, 11:35 AM   #75
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That ain't cheap. Ouch.
Nope and neither is the system it goes to. All together on 1.2 kw @ 24V with 440 AH of storage it ran $5k and that's me building the system myself. Unlike 99% of RV'ers with solar I can move my panels up to 50' from the rig to catch sunlight in partly shaded campgrounds. And I think I found a way to put 600 more watts on
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