I have used that same bead board befor. If it the same composite type I used, if it gets wet it swells and flakes apart. Just dont get it wet :) Nice build, dont see many COEs anymore. I always liked driving them, especially in bad weather as visibility is much better. Not to mention engine access. Have you came up with a workable pass thru from the cab to box.?

Check some of the photos. I think the pass-through is in some of them ? Think its 40"x46".

Pass-through.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...81f28136b6.jpg

A little work on the power panel. As you can see it will pull out to be able to check fuzes and a good place to mount the inverter.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...ad51785194.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...2273460881.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...5a3b306c1e.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...d2ea0825f0.jpg

And a pile of snakes !

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...bcd463bb60.jpg

All trimmed out. Now on to all the wires ?

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...5165a2e910.jpg

looks really nice.

I'm curious why you mounted the panel (with frequently used switches) so low on the floor.
Don't you think you'll get tired of bending over to turn things on and off while in the coach?

I spend more time out side. Makes it easier to do from out side. And it keeps me young.

Just could not find a better place.

i also thought that might be a possibility.
Im glad mine our mounted near the door - i can reach 'em from the outside 2nd step when i have too.

That is a great idea! Both of our travel trailers located those switches near the door, so you could reach them from the first step. I'd love to move the ones in my renegade to that spot.

You do nice work.

my step "lock out" switch is in a similar location (low near the floor), and i added some LED lighting under the step (to back light the step) and put the switch next to the lockout switch too...w/ the same idea in mind, just open the door reach in and touch the swith

Main wiring almost done. Still have a little but the pile of snakes are gone.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...9a2cc28525.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...2cc3efdb0d.jpg

Tested the inverter/charger and it works fine but needs to go ! Well ,go out side of the box. Makes to much noise!

And need to do the CAT5 also. Need to look into the WI/FI amp and antenna system ?

Why the cat 5?

Wifi Ranger gets good reviews from the likes of jack m.

Personally I just use a personal hotspot - my experience is the campground or track wifi is too slow / saturated with other users.

Your work looks real nice.

CAT5 + ethernet cable. Will go hard wire to the PC's and TV from the wifi antenna .

Going to go with a WiFiRanger Elite.

i understand what cat 5 is, but i don't understand WHY you need it, other than to get from the antenna.

Are you using actual PC's (tower/server)?

You certainly don't need cat 5 for TV's/Smart TV's or streaming boxes (i.e. ROKU).

For the rare occasion where you might have to have hard ethernet connection you could use a power line adapter

At home I consistently achieve more than 250Mb/s over wifi using a MU-Mimo AC (3x3) router.

In our coach we all have wifi devices (mac book pro's / iPad's etc) and while we haven't used it, we can always pull the ROKU box from him & use it in the coach, but in the coach we prefer to just stream TV/video from a laptop or iPad to the big screens.

Just old school.

I will also be running HDMI cable.

seems unnecessary - and it will certainly not be useful in only a few years

Hey, I'm old fashioned and prefer a wire myself. When I plug it in, I know for sure the damn thing is hooked up, no mystery.

What untill you see all the other "unnecessary" stuff ! LOL