I guess I better make sure everybody can see these pictures before I keep posting more.
Anybody else see the pictures? or not see them? |
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I still need to figure out a top bracket for the mount there, or maybe on the back. Certainly the hing bolts are plenty strong area to attach a bracket. I plan to just seal my vent panel, but leave it as removable since that is where my electrical and water connections have easy access. Too hard to pull the frig out, need to build a temporary base for it to sit on since it is not at floor level. The front leveler holes have 8mm x 1.25 thread if my memory is right. It is metric and 8mm for sure, just use the threaded foot to check. My spacer needed 1 inch thickness. I can see your latest pics. |
Yes, I'll take one of the levelers to the hardware to match up. I'll look closer at the rollers. If I take them off I think I would have to install some bolts or something to keep it the same height back there. Another thought I have is maybe making some sort of metal bracket that would engage with the bottom rear frame on the fridge when I slide it into the space. That might work well to lock down the rear of the fridge and then bolt through to the leveler holes on the front.
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Looks like these pics should work. Here's one that shows that light duty 1x strip along the back where the plywood rests on:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...2012.03.43.jpg And this shows how I positioned the 2x's to support the plywood now: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...2013.39.30.jpg Here's the back vent sealed off: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...2012.45.52.jpg Here's the roof vent: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...2017.05.03.jpg |
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Here's the cabinet next to the bed for the inverter:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...2012.16.44.jpg |
Trying to decide another thing. Should I paint the inside walls on either side of the fridge? There's a whole bunch of wires on the left side there so thinking it will be a hard one to paint. Maybe just paint the front 8-10" on each side since you probably can't see further back without shining a light there?
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I'm also thinking about cutting a thin piece of plywood to mount on the left side of the cabinet to cover all those wires there. I could use small spacers to allow room for the wiring behind it.
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Cut some strips and lig. nail it to your wall with the wire. then screw the new panal so you can get to the wires easy. Sam |
Confused me for a minute. Liquid nails I'm thinking. Yes, sounds like a great idea.
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I am useing a pad and it sucks for typing sorry
Sam |
Got it all in. I made a couple of square steel tubing mounts for the bottom front. I wanted to mount the fridge out far enough to allow a bit of air to circulate. In order to do that I needed to have it stick out to a point that the front levelers were in free air. So, I removed those and used the steel tubing to bolt through. It works great. I can adjust the height to have the fridge level in the opening. Cosmetically I suppose it's not the greatest. But, I'm all about function over beauty.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...2B11.11.10.jpg Then up top I used a couple of small L brackets and attached them where the door hinge bolts are. I used a nut to space between the L brackets and the wood above the fridge. Quick and easy. Again, probably not the prettiest and I'm sure others could do a much better job somehow. But, I'm not much good at pretty. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...2B14.51.57.jpg |
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Those front leg levelers I used nylock nuts so they won't loosen up on the road.
Here's some electrical install info. The builder (United Specialties) used that black plastic wire loom stuff to protect the romex around the framing under the bed. I used 3/4" liquid tight non-metallic conduit (often used to run wire from a outside air conditioner to the disconnect on the side of your house). I had a huge coil of it laying on the shelf and figure it would work better than that plastic stuff the builder used. I removed the romex for the fridge circuit from my a/c breaker panel. I ran that into a junction box and then ran a new piece of romex from there to a junction box over by the inverter (no enough room between the water tank and the a/c panel to put everything). Over by the inverter end I wired in the auto transfer switch using another junction box. I used single device plastic boxes with blank cover plates. I know not the best, but probably sufficient. I used that 3/4" conduit to protect the 4 gauge wires running from the batteries to the inverter too. I used this cool hydraulic crimping tool to crimp the ends onto the 4 gauge wire. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...2B18.27.43.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...2B17.40.18.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...2B20.19.43.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...2B20.20.12.jpg |
Now the problem. The 600 watt pure sine wave inverter cuts off with an overload error code. I believe it's cutting off when the compressor tries to start up on the fridge. It seems to be fine for awhile and then cuts off. I tried using a hair dryer on the inverter and it worked fine until I got to the highest setting. The dryer starts on low so I'm guessing it doesn't spike right off like the fridge might be? So, I ordered a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter and will convert to that. I'm going to run either 2 gauge or 1 gauge wire for that. It isn't all a loss though. I'm going to switch over the 600 watt one to power the entertainment center. That way we can use that without shore or genny power. Pretty sure the 600 watts should be fine for that. I'm going to build another level in that cabinet. Then I'll move the 600 watt unit to the upper level. And mount the 2k unit where the 600 watt one is now. Shouldn't be a huge deal. There is enough room to do the wiring into the battery box down below. I might have to run two of the conduits since that 1 gauge wire is very thick. Running one wire in each conduit will help with reducing heat too I think.
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Install looks good in the overall view. You do not see those upper brackets much since they are blocked by the door. Those lower bolts and nuts would hide a bunch if you paint them black.
As for the electrical, it could be the start-up current is what is tripping. seems most inverters can handle about 50% spike over the rated value, so in your case that would be about 900 watts. For sure the 200 watt will work, after all the frig is designed to plug into a 15 amp 120v circuit which is less than 2000 watts. Repurposing the 600 watt inverter to the TV should work fine, and as you said nice to run those without needing the generator. |
Bob, you could probably buy a 1/2 sheet of 1/4" oak plywood and make a box of sorts to go over the fridge mount. That would give it a much more finished look.
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On my old unit, I pulled the upper trip rail off. and put the upper brackets under it. Then reinstalled it. it left about a 1/2 inch air gap and looked good.
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I have that same hydraulic crimper - its $54 at Harbor Freight IIRC i thought i picked it up for slightly less during one of their better sale days.
Amazon has a similar one for $46 |
If you are going to buy a bunch of heavy battery cable I have often found it cheaper to go my local welding supply as opposed to the auto/truck parts joint. Also welding cable is more flexible to fish into tight spots.
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I paid the $54 I think. Couldn't wait for a sale, had to get this thing running.
Yes, it could be finished off better. But probably won't be by me. I think the 2k inverter should be way over what I'll need. But I just don't want it to trip off. And it wasn't that much more than the 1.5k one. I also ordered another auto switch to wire in, just like I did with the 600 watt one. I really like how it works. |
better still make your own ring terminals out of copper tubing & pipe -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpFb_Yxl_hA |
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I needed heavy duty cables to power a moveable winch on my mudboat. Welding cables fit the bill. After three years they remain very flexible. They are impervious to mud and oil, and you can walk on them with no ill effect. I have been curious why these have not become a more popular alternative to $4.00 per foot standard wire. |
Hey Bob,
So why did you mount your inverter so far from your batteries? My house batteries are beside the truck batteries. I am happy with my current set up but I want to power my tv's with an inverter as we go down the road. Just have to figure how to get a dedicated outlet for the items I want to run thru the inverter. By the time I get thru finding where that white wire goes I might have it figured out. LOL sam |
Sam, my house batteries (2 12 volt deep cycle, I think like group 27 or something?) are in the storage bay directly underneath that night stand where I mounted the inverter. I didn't want to mount the inverter in that storage bay, I wanted it inside where it would be protected from the elements and I could see it and operate it easily. I had thought I had used 8' cable to connect it. But I just looked and in fact the cables are 6'. So, that's pretty close I'd say. My truck chassis batteries are way up front on the left side, just behind the back wall of the cab. I'd guess 25' since my living quarters are 26'. There are three of those huge truck batteries there. They do have a large cable running from there back to the battery bay. And I have a large round switch that I can set to provide house 12 volts via the front batteries, the house batteries, or all 5. Generally when I'm rolling down the road I have all 5 tied together so the engine charges them all up. Then when I'm camping I usually switch to just use the house batteries. That way I don't run the chassis batts down and can't start the motor. The chassis batts also start the generator on my rig. I often shut the breaker off that powers the Iota charger/converter in my house battery bay. I like to do that to give those batteries some exercise. It's real easy from inside to do that. Then when I notice the lights seem a bit dim I just switch that breaker back on to charge it all up. Works pretty good I think.
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Bob, I am learning that these coaches are custom all the way. I am not aware that I can charge the house batteries as I motor down the road. That would be nice, and I am sure there would be some sort of switching thing to keep things from frying.
I believe my gen uses the house batteries to start, I have a switch that when I have run my batteries down I can push to start the gen. Maybe by the time I figure out my white wire I will even know more. sam |
It has taken me years to figure out what I know about my rig. And I'm pretty sure I don't know everything about it yet. If I was you I would check the voltage on my house batteries. Then check the chassis battery voltage. If it's different they are separated. Now, try switching some switches that you don't know what they do. And check again. You might just find the voltage the same. That will show you they are now electrically mated. I'm pretty sure there has got to be a way to connect them, and disconnect them. If the voltage was the same at the first test then start switching switches and checking voltage until you get them to be different.
I think Bushpilot's Haulmark rig is set up so the house batteries start the generator. I see pro's and con's to both ways. I'll bet you could send a email to Renegade customer service asking where the switch is to separate the batteries. Mine is a big round thing in the battery compartment. I think they have electronic ones that use a smaller switch but have a larger box wired in that does the switching. |
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Our house batteries get charged by the engine alternator when the engine is running. When the generator is running, it also charges the batteries (via the converter/charger). the generator does (usually) rely on the house batteries to start, once the generator is running the AC powered Converter/Charger will recover/maintain the house batteries (but not, usually, the engine batteries). put a meter on the house batteries (when you're disconnected from shore power) - whats the voltage? then start the coach engine & check the house battery voltage. if you don't see an increase (charge) voltage on the house batteries with the engine running you may want to consider adding a simple and inexpensive battery isolation relay between the engine batteries and the house batteries. the battery isolation relay will "combine" allow (charge) voltage to flow to the house batteries when the engine alternator is outputting. When the engine is not running (and there is no charge output from the engine alternator) the Isolation Relay will electrically isolate or separate the house batteries from the engine batteries. |
I put the meter on the two sets of batteries and with the engine running and nope not connected. Sounds like I need the relay.
Thanks for the input Sam Quote:
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They had to have wired it to charge the house batteries with the engine/alternator. On mine they ran it through a accessory switch on the dash. That switch wasn't even marked. I had to call the builder (lucky they were still in business at that time) and he told me about that switch. I'd bet you have some switch somewhere to allow you to tie them together. It certainly could be an auto switch like Don talked about too. But there has got to be something somewhere. Just have to figure out where. Did you call Renegade yet? Or maybe you could send a private message to Jack Wheeler. He used to work at Renegade and now works at Showhauler. He's a member of our Truck Conversion, and Super Class C Facebook groups.
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Bob check my white wire thread, and no call yet. I tryed when I first got the rv and they called me back once and I missed that call,and then I tried several time after that with no luck I even sent an email. That why I have you guys to help me sort this all out!
Sam |
Well, the plot thickens. I got the 2k inverter all installed. It runs the fridge for about 5 minutes and then starts giving me a beep about every 30 seconds and flashes the 04 error code. The manual says that's an overheat code. Then the display goes back to the voltage/watts reading until it beeps again and flashes the error. It keeps doing this. If I have the fridge door open when it beeps the light and motor go off momentarily and then come back on. I don't think it's overheating. The thing is only showing it putting out about 110 watts when it's running. And the cooling fans haven't come on. I called the tech support number and Sean told me he suspects a logic problem. He said to disconnect the inverter from power for 2 hours. He also suggested if that doesn't work I should run a cord direct from the fridge to the inverter. Well, the reset didn't solve it. Still acts the same. So I plugged it directly into the inverter (bypassing the auto switch) and still it works the same. I tried unplugging the fridge and plugging a 32" led tv. It ran the tv fine for about 15 minutes (had to leave but I suspect it would have run forever that way). I can run the fridge on shore power without any indication of a overload. And, I'm only plugging my coach into a 20 amp wall socket. Even with the fridge and my 55 amp converter/charger running it won't trip that wall breaker. I just don't think it's overloading the inverter. If that were the case wouldn't it trip it right off when the compressor kicks on? It seems there is some sort of other problem. I'll be calling Sean again tomorrow to see what he suggests. Just thought I'd post here in case anybody has any other ideas. I'm thinking the 600 watt inverter wasn't the problem either since that runs it for several minutes before doing the same thing. Oh well. I hope I get it figured out. I did take a bunch of pictures showing the rest of the install. No time to post now though. Good night.
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I once had a similar experience with an inverter that would kick out on overheat when I really did not think it should of been doing it. It turned out to be the batteries. I do not remember the technical term for it, but basically the battery voltage would drop to where the inverter was pulling too many amps trying to meet the need at low voltage and it would cause the overheating issue. They would start out fine, but quickly loose power. When I had them put on a load test, it showed up. Just an idea, but you may want to verify the batteries. Good luck, I know it can be really frustrating.
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Bob,
I was going to suggest essentially the same thing as dtchild1. The question becomes how to test it--testing the batteries would identify a bad battery, but wouldn't be conclusive in showing that voltage isn't dropping when the fridge tries starting. I would try connecting a test light (or ideally an analog voltmeter) at the inverter's input terminals. A digital meter (at least typical consumer grade) isn't going to show a momentary drop. Depending on how hard it is to get to the stuff, I could also see testing with a regular starting battery in parallel with what you already have just to help narrow down what's going on. I'm still a little surprised that the 600W inverter couldn't do it, but the compressor does briefly demand quite a bit--but for a short enough time that it wouldn't trip a thermal circuit breaker. |
I think you guys are correct. I did some testing yesterday. With my 55 amp Iota converter/charger turned on the inverter runs the fridge just fine. When I shut off the Iota the fridge won't start. I think my batteries are several years old. I only have two 12 volt group 24 batteries. I do have 3 chassis batteries, the big huge truck kind. The truck batteries are connected back to the chassis batteries but I'm not sure what size wire was used for that. And, it's about 26' from the truck batteries to the house batteries. There is a switch to tie all 5 together. Even with all 5 the inverter doesn't want to start the fridge up. Yet when I turn on the Iota it will work. I'm pretty sure my truck batteries are good because the engine cranks over real fast. I don't like to use the truck batteries for household needs because I don't want to risk running them down and not being able to start the motor (or generator, which starts via the truck batteries). When I watch the display on the inverter it shows mid 12 volts yet it still won't start the fridge. When I turn on the Iota the inverter display shows about 13.4 to 13.6. Seems like mid 12 volts should still start the fridge. But if the batteries are weak could they still be at that voltage but not have enough amps to kick on the fridge compressor? The inverter does run the lights in the fridge but won't start the compressor. I ran the fridge until it was cold enough to shut off the compressor and then switch off the Iota. And then open the doors on the fridge to let it warm up and call for cold and the inverter will beep and the compressor won't start up. I had to shut off power to the fridge and then turn on the Iota and power up the inverter and it would kick on the compressor right away. I wired the inverter with 1 gauge welder cable. It's about 7' of wire from the battery compartment up to the inverter. I can pull the batteries and take them to my battery guy and have him put a load test on them. But, I'm thinking I should take them out and install 2 golf cart type 6 volt batteries in their place. Wired in series of coarse. Pretty sure I can fit them in where the 12 volt ones come out. I've always thought that might be a better way to go anyway for all the other house 12 volt needs. It also looks like there is room along my frame back there to mount a truck type battery box and put a couple more 6 volt batteries there and add to the system. Any thoughts from you guys about all this? Thanks!!
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