WOW, thats going to be one expensive carport. Have you considered increasing the wall height of your shop? Would that be doable without a variance? Last year I raised a 30X40 steel building wall height by 4 feet. Used two forklifts to pick up the entire building,added 4 feet to the post and additional purlins and rewelded to the floor pads. We then had the the bottom of the building bricked to match his house. The brick work was the most expensive part. Just a thought.
MMM

Lifting the shop
 

I did think about just what you are saying but my building has a two story garage and office attached to the back that is 14x24 and it shares the rear wall of the shop. Also when done I will have parking 17 x 54 so I can have my boat and Long Legs under cover. If Long Legs was stored in the shop I would have no room for the race car or metal work. Saturday night we had a wind storm and I spent two hours trying to save my easy-up from being destroyed. It has been raining almost nonstop since I got the FRP home. I plan to cut the first sheet while it is under the easy-up. The first sheet will be large enough for the back, the bunk front, the bunk bottom and the wall with the walk-through. After I have all of the small pieces in the shop I can put the easy-up back in the trailer.

Frp
 

Today it did not rain and my sister came out to help me cut the FRP. We cut the first piece into four smaller pieces to cover the bunk front wall, bunk underside, the walk-through wall and the back wall of the motorhome. It went pretty good but at 2.2 lbs per square foot the back panel weigh in at 150 lbs. Sue and I were both glad when we had it in place. Next up will be drilling holes through the FRP and the tubing and then removing the FRP and installing the nutserts into the tubing. I am making some drill fixtures to help keep the drill going straight. With the FRP clamped to the frame it looks much bigger. The last three sheets will not be cut before they are clamped to the frame. The sides will weigh about 435 lbs. I will lift them with a chain-fall or two. I also painted the frame to help prevent rust while the frame is out in the weather and after the motorhome is done.

How about a photo of the nutserts and the bolts you plan for using on the tubing?

nutserts
 

This is a sample piece I made to see if it would work. The bolts are flat head 3/8 x 16 and use a hex to drive them. The nutserts require a 17/32 hole in the tubing. I need to drill a 3/8 hole in the FRP and counter-sink it. I had polished stainless bent for the corner trim which will be held on with 1/4 x 20 stainless button head cap screws. I also have 1/4 x 20 nutserts that I can use in tight spots.

Looking really good Kenn. Those inserts work great. I assume you are going to cut out the openings after the panels are installed? Looks like a well thought out plan and the craftsmanship is great as usual.
MMM

FRP fitting
 

I had to order new cutters for my mini boring bar so I can finish my drill fixtures. I have been cutting and fitting the four pieces of FRP that my sister helped me clamp in place. I started with the rear piece which is 8' x 8' and weighs 140 lbs. I was able to slide it to the side and make the cut from bottom to top and then lift it with a floor jack and cut the top edge. Much better than trying to lay the sheet down. I also cut the three pieces for the buck and walk through. It is all the correct size and in place for drilling. I will use the time waiting for the cutters to epoxy the edges of the wood.

This was, in effect, a trial run for nearly three times the weight in the 435 pound side panels. I look forward to seeing the chainfalls in action. Anyway, just you and your sister, or will someone else lend a hand? Indoors, right, so windy isn't an issue? If I lived next door you could count on my help - I am in awe of your achievement, thus far . . . attaboy!

drill fixtures
 

I finished my drill fixtures. I made one for 3/8" and one for 17/32" (that is the hole size needed for the 3/8x16 nutserts). I also turned a 3" long pin to 17/32 and down to 3/8 for the last 1/2". Now I can clamp the 3/8 fixture to the FRP and frame tube then drill a 3/8 hole through both. Remove the fixture and countersink the FRP so the screw will be below the surface. I will need to do all of the holes for any given sheet of FRP and then remove the FRP. I will then have several 3/8 holes in the frame. I will use the pin through the 17/32 fixture and into the 3/8 hole in the frame. This will locate the 17/32 fixture and I can clamp it in place. Next I will remove the pin and drill out the hole to 17/32. I tested it on scrap and it worked great. Now I will be able to install all of the nutserts and replace the FRP and with some luck all of the hole will line up with the nutserts.

Nice job on those fixtures Kenn, Always going the extra mile by engraving the size and center mark on the side.. When you get to the side panels give us a heads up if you want any help getting them into place. We should be able to free up some time to run down and give you a hand, we usually have at least every other weekend open. Might not be a bad idea to have some help running all the screws home on the big panels before the adhesive dries. We have been looking for an excuse to get down that way to go to the air museum anyway..lol

Dave

Frp
 

Dave thanks for the offer, I will take you up on it. I have drilled all of the holes in the walk-through panel (29) and today I should get all of the nutserts installed. When I put the FRP back on I should have some idea how long it will take to get the bolts started. I think the drivers side panel will have over 60 bolts. Extra hands will help in applying the Sikaflex adhesive, starting the screws, clamping (lots of clamps for windows) and tighten all the screws. My new plan is to do the back panel, walk-through, underside of bunk and front of bunk without adhesive and then remove them and set then aside. The sides are so big I think it will be faster to have both ends open for gluing and clamping and installing bolts. For sure it will be a few weeks at best but I will keep you up on the progress.

more holes & FRP
 

Yesterday I got the underside of the bunk bolted in place. It took some creative use of the drill fixtures but it all worked out. I will need to remove the panel again to I can drill the holes for the front of the bunk. It is nice to be done drilling overhead. The underside FRP weighs in at 88 lbs and it is held up with 18 - 3/8" bolts which works out to under 5 lbs per bolt.

lots more holes
 

I bolted the back piece of FRP and all went well. I bought a counter-bore tool so I could spot face the backside of the FRP for clearance around the nutsert flanges. Now the FRP sits flat against the tubing. I have done a total of 71 holes and nutserts and I have about 125 to 150 left, so far so good.

Hi. I have been lurking here for a few years. I really like this project, and since I live in the portland area, I'd like to come check it out in person. Maybe we can do it on a day when you need an extra pair of hands. That way we we both get something out of it. Let me know, I'm available Sundays and mondays.
Jayme Van

big FRP
 

Jayme Van send me a pm with your phone # and I will call. Today my sister came out and we were able to get the drivers side sheet of FRP clamped to the frame. Two chain falls, two ratchet straps and a bit of head scratching and it is on. Now I need to square up the box frame before I drill any holes. I finished the bunk front piece yesterday and then removed it. I am up to 85 nutserts and have a bunch to go.

Kenn, looks like we are heading down to Tillamook for some R&R this weekend. We will be there from Sun-Tue. Planning on heading out to the air and space museum on Mon. Would love to stop by for a visit and see your progress, would probably be in the afternoon. Will give you a call Sunday to see if you will be home. Pics are looking really good,

Dave

more nutserts
 

I have finished drilling and installing the 49 nutserts for the drivers side. I am now up to 134 total with around 100 left to do. I had a nice visit on Monday, Dave and Michelle (Dragonslayer 140) came to take a look at the project. Lots of good questions, they make me think and I like that I can ask Dave questions and get answers that make sense. Yesterday I ordered the windows from Motion Windows in Vancouver Wa. They should be done in mid June. Tonight I cut out the opening for the small kitchen window and it went without any drama. I think I will try to trim it with a router as Dave suggested. The only flush cutter I have is not quite long enough. My sister will be out tomorrow and help with the passenger side FRP and then back to drilling.

Kenn, we had a great visit, was great to see all the progress you have made. Can't wait to see it when you have the box on. Maybe we will be able to get away and give to you a hand on crane day if you need one. If you can not find a longer flush cut bit at hardware store, they will have one at rockler (beaverton) or woodcraft (tigard) I got one with about an inch of cutter above the bearing. Had fun looking through the Chrome catalog you sent with me. Really makes me want to go out and get a truck so I can start my conversion. Thanks again for your hospitality.

Dave

passenger side FRP
 

Today I got the last of the 49 bolts in on the passenger side. I am up to 183 total and I still have the roof to do. I also cut out the windows and entry door. I used a skill saw for the straights and left about a 1/4" extra and used a flush cut router bit to match them to the frames. I used a saber saw for the corners. I need to make a jig for the router for the 3"R in the corners. The shop feels bigger with the openings in the wall.

What are you planning on for entry steps into the side door? I have a box truck, which I am converting and I'm still pondering what to do because it's 4' from ground level to the deck surface. In back I have a hydraulic lift and a roll up door, added to which, there's a ladder if I need to climb up but I have to do something for the side entry, which doesn't involve clambering up a ladder. Thoughts?