more water tank stuff
 

The water tank holds 55 gals and is plastic and it is inside the aluminum fuel tank. If you go back to page 16 of this thread you can see how I did it. I have no bed other than the bunk above the cab and a jacknife sofa. My old motorhome had the water heater under the bed and I forgot to drain it and it cracked the tank during freezing weather. The cover I made for the aluminum tank can be locked. I do think it would be funny if someone tried to rip off my diesel and put water in their fuel tank' just saying.

Thanks! Looks slick on 16. Did weld the end of the tank back on? or how did you fasten the end back on?

I used a 4" section of the tank to make a flange on the inside of the large end of the tank then I riveted it on with countersink rivets. I used pop rivets to hold the end of the tank on. All of the rivets are hidden by the rear tank strap.

New batteries
 

Today I mounted three new 12 volt batteries to replace my four 6 volt batteries. I had to do some repair work on the floor of the battery box. I will by making new cables as soon as all the parts arrive.

battery cables
 

Yesterday I removed the battery cables from the starter and found that one of the positive cables has been rubbing against the truck frame. Is anyone using a fuse at the batteries? and if so what size? I know that the fuse should be sized to protect the wiring.

I don't think you want to use a fuse from the batteries to the starter terminal. I've never seen one used.

i guess you could use a (marine grade) circuit breaker if you had to, but ive never heard of it....im not even sure you could fine a large enough circuit breaker.

some SPLIT loom might help reduce the rubbing.

I have been running old trucks for over 40 years and do not recall ever seeing a starter cable fused. I have seen many just like yours or worse. (Usually fried)Even had a battery explode when the cable shorted. Not a pretty site. I would install a new cable,properly anchored and add chaffing material where it could rub against something. Also,why did you elect to go with three 12 volts batteries as opposed to the four 6 volts or four 12 volts? Just curious. MMM

I agree, I've never seen a vehicle of any sort with a fuse on the starter cable. If you really wanted to do something, a circuit breaker would be more appropriate than a fuse, but I can't even imagine how may amps it would need to be to crank a diesel. Just stick to protecting the cables. And of course the lead terminal itself serves as a fuse on a severe cable short, I've seen the terminal melted right off the battery on a bad short on a piece of machinery.

battery cables
 

I decided not to fuse the cable for all of the reasons mentioned. I will be using 2/0 welding wire and will have the cables protected much better than the old ones. I went to three twelve volt batteries after talking to a logger that has many trucks both old and new. I liked the idea of two cables replacing four. Two of the six volt batteries needed replacing and I will need just one master switch.

Fusable (sp?) link.

The alternator on my race car went out one time. Look it to a alternator/generator/starter repair guy. Been in the business most of life (now 60). Reputed to know everything there was to know about those three things. Fixed mine up. He asked if I had a "fusable link" in the big positive battery cable coming from the battery. I asked what that was! He explained it was a piece (I think) of lead that if there was short, like the positive terminal was shorted in a wreck, the lead would melt before the battery exploded or the wiring melted all the insulation off.

I never put it in. Anyone heard of this?

The fusable link is on the hot wire between the battery and the alternator. This wire is normally a 10ga wire. The link is basically a "inline fuse" in the event the alternator or wire has a short. It should have one. I have never seen a fusable link on a main battery cable. It would a very heavy one given the amp load of the starter etc. MMM

battery cables
 

Today I finished the new battery cables. I used some heavy duty heat-shrink with adhesive to hold the protective sheathing to the cables. I hope it will keep the ends from fraying. The small wires are to keep the presets alive on the radio when the master switch is off. Tomorrow I will move the truck outside and start it and make sure everything works.

battery cables and battery install looks real good.

as far as a lead fuseable ling goes, I think that the lead battery terminals would melt at the same time. I really don't want to discuss how the brand new optima batteries ended up with no top posts:D

Kenn- you do top notch work on every bit of that truck. I'm impressed. If you are ever bored with yours, I've got this half finished topkick sitting in my shop...

next phase
 

Today I moved the truck out into the cold WET Oregon weather. I also moved the floor and roof frames into the shop so I can build the box. After several wet months under a plastic tarp, the bare steel was not as rusty as I expected. I started sanding the light rust. Next I will separate the two frames and cut the studs, square everything up and start welding.

Kenn,
Really looking good. Building the box will be fun. Only advice I can give you (for what its worth) is to plan way ahead of what your currently working on. Trying to install wiring,plumbing etc after the fact can be a real pain. Don't ask me how I know lol.

Did you ever get your permit for your carport? That can be a real hassle. I have been building steel buildings for the last few years and in most cases it took longer to get the permits and inspections than it takes to build the building. MMM

good advice
 

Thanks for the good advice. You are right about planning. I need to make some final decisions on things like the refrigerator, heater and anything that need to have through the wall vents or access. By using the FRP I won't need to worry about having the studs on 48" centers. I am still working my way through the permit process with the county. I love the fact that my house sits beside a year round creek, but it is causing a few extra hurdles to clear. I have applied for a federal flood plane development permit, the state lands dept. and fish and wildlife because I have wetlands on my property. I understand why people build without permits. I still will need a variance because of side setback rules. The variance will cost over $1,000. and requires a public rearing and take two months. I think the county is hoping I go away but I am just taking it one step at a time. I think at this point the weather will be warm and dry before the carport is up.

Has anyone tried using "rescue tape" instead of heat-shrink on battery cables?

Rescue Tape - World's #1 Brand of Silicone Tape!

Rescue Tape . . .
• Is Self-Fusing!
• Incredible 950 PSI Tensile Strength!
• Insulates 8,000 Volts per layer!
• Withstands 500° F Degrees of heat!
• Remains flexible to -85° F! (-60° C)
• Fastest-fusing and Strongest Silicone Tape available on the market!

Rescue Tape . . .
• Creates a Permanent Air-Tight, Water-Tight Seal in seconds!
• Has an unbelievably long shelf life!
• Is extremely versatile!
• Resists Fuels, Oils, Acids, Solvents, Salt Water, Road Salt, UV Rays
• Never gets gummy or sticky like electrical tape, duct tape or other repair tape- No messy cleanup!

I bought some at the RV Super Show in Tampa two weeks ago. Guy pitching said its great for battery cables and other high amp applications.

Thoughts?

BTW ... your truck really, really looks nice.

the box
 

I started welding the studs into the box today. I bought some cheap plumb-bobs at Harbor Freight and they had a string go through a hole and they don't hang straight. I drill and tapped 1/8" NPT in the plumb-bobs and used 1/8" brass pipe plugs with a small hole for the string and now they hang straight. Lots of clamps, chains and measuring. I am using gussets in the ends of the box. I have made a decision on the window sizes and where they will be so I can put all the studs in.