what about condensation/drip from the air conditioning unit in the garage ?

drain will be plumbed out thru the floor...

on the hi setting it drops the temp 10 degrees in less than 10 minutes... so I think I will be using it on the low setting....BRRRRRR

also adding some roof vents in the garage area to loose some of the heat from the metal roof

Our LQ is only about 18' of our trailer (counting the bunk) and the ac will freeze you out sometimes. I always have the roof vents open in there when running heat or ac, seems to work way better that way.

I also wonder about moisture in the rear, I'm thinking even with draining the actual water, it's going to get pretty moist and humid back there. I would suggest a floor level vent or two to work along with the roof vent to get some airflow through there to get both the heat and moisture out. My motorcycle trailer has one on the right upper wall and the left lower wall which allows a little airflow through the trailer and the thing isn't an oven when you open it up. I'm thinking the same thing down low on your wall would do the trick to get some airflow going up to your roof vent.

2-Piece Polypropylene Trailer Vent for 3" Diameter Hole - Black Redline Enclosed Trailer Parts HMAV2-AVT2

Very cool. Literally.

On some of the more modern window units there is a slinger that slings condensate water up onto the hot outside coils to help cool them more and cut down on the amount of water that drains out the back.

added roof vents (14"x14") in the garage area... basically the biggest ones that would fit between the roof ribs(supports)... Foam tape and 3-M 4200 to seal them up and fastened with a ton of 1/8" pop rivets... drops the temp inside signifficantly while baking in the S FL sun...

Galley cabinets / countertop and frig are in... pics soon.

Taking her back out to Lazy Springs for the long weekend wheeling...

ordered a pair of those vents... thanks for the suggestion!

Sprint the weekend out at Lazy Springs... about 20 miles East of Ft Myers Fl... an off road park for Jeeps,quads and dirt bikes... can not say enough about how well run this park is... good family fun...

Galley in but not fully plumbed or wired...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...d804c87edf.jpg

Diamond plate treads for the garage...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...846d37d605.jpg

Back up camera and flood lights in the back...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...3616763222.jpg

This was home for the weekend...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...5182719a81.jpg
some of the terrain...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...8fb8b42028.jpg

and it just does not get any better than this...



https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...9bb250991f.jpg


https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...ca4a5b9079.jpg

Very nice. Livin' large I'd say.

unfortunately the toter has taken a back seat to my sons BMW... he went off to college in Boston so there is no need to take a car there! so I have a new daily driver/project... 2001 330CI E46 convert... had to do some body work...clean up some curb rash... new set of rims and a paint job...

now that she is cleaned up I can get back to the toter... picked up a fresh water tank... so it looks like plumbing will be this weekends fun!

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...3ae647eb47.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...67d43fb303.jpg

Of the two profiles of accordion gasket, which did you use and what was the gap between the two metal flanges?

I used the 7" gasket... The gap varies... 5" to 6"

https://i42.tinypic.com/ok9761.jpg

the lower half is a5" the upper is as much as 6" so I went with the larger profile... after trying the smaller one...

Extra Wide Accordion Boot - Part Number 543

https://www.accordionboot.com/images/543.jpg
In Stock


Extra Wide Accordion Boot - Part Number 543

https://www.accordionboot.com/images/543.jpg
In Stock
Accordion Boot Rubber Material Replacement Order by Feet

the extra wide...

bydesign, i am currently starting a project similar to yours, but do not have anyone that I can bounce ideas off. I am most likely not nearly adept at doing this as you appear to be. Is there any way that I can pick your brain?

First orders of business: windows, vents and 110v

Thanks for the accordion seal information

Any thing I do to to help... just let me know...

Windows I found that you can get some great deals on ebay... just make certain the orientation is correct... direction of the opening and the chanels have drains... that sort of thing.

over head vents... i believe I also got those off ebay...

110... I have a genset I used in a racecar trailer... 4500 generac not the quietest but I already owned it

no worries anytime

as far as those interior walls, how/what did you use hardware wise.

I guess im trying to figure out how best to mount diff things etc (shelves, lights etc.) but I can not imagine that the walls on their own can support much. I do not have nearly the knowledge you have but am a quick study.

I am just toting my raptor around on weekends to get away from the city so I do not need much luxury

I insulated mine... So I used 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 ripped down pine to frame around the windows and anything that needed to be attached to the walls. The pine was attached with pl2000 construction adhesive and 2" decking screws... Long enough to tie into the plywood but not poke thru the glass outer skin.

The paneling on the in side is fiberglass panel that is used in public restrooms... Has a pebble finish... The insulation is rigid foam thang is foil on both sides... Also attached with pl2000.

bydesign,

this is really helpful, I appreciate it. I have not decided on insulating yet

I have read in a few threads about ensuring that you put windows on the correct side etc. how can you tell from ebay which is which? I've looked over a few and it did not appear they designated which side was which.

Vertical or lift to open can be used on either side... The ones that slide side to side the fixed glass is usually toward the front of the vehicle... If you look closely you can see that the frame will have drains along the bottom edge...

i understand! thanks!! you have been extremely helpful! This will get me through the next couple of weeks worth of projects.

Who do you use for insurance? I am 0-3 in finding someone to insure this thing

also, I am not finding anything on pl2000. are you referring to locktite pl 200?

Construction adhesive...

Shop LIQUID NAILS 10-oz Construction Adhesive Adhesive at Lowes.com=

paneling adhesive...

Basically I glued and screwed all of the pine to the inside of the box... then glued the foam insulation up... and the screwed the paneling up (I found using a dab of the adhesive on the paenling screws stops them from coming loose)

awesome, I appreciate it. do you happen to know the thickness of the cab walls?

i know these questions are trivial and prob annoying, but you have been a tremendous help to me

a hair over 5/8" on mine...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...e3badb3f93.jpg

I used 3/4" ply and 1/4" ripped down to aprox 3-4" glued and screwed ad ripped pine down around the window openings...

best of luck with your build... take lots of pictures and share in you progress

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...67c437f5c5.jpg

here is a shot that shows the box thickness...

Sweet! I appreciate it greatly!

thatnks for the help, I greatly appreciate it!

The build cont' I found an awning off an RV that was being parted out... granted in was a scene from deliverence... but my brother and I dismounted from the RV and had it on top of my Jeep in under an hour... granted I had to drive it some three hours across the state of FL... at 75+ MPH...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...0e4a87907.jpeg

Very cool. Really enjoying your build, and itching to get re-started on mine.

I see now I'm not the only one that has a unique use for a retired u-haul truck. this would be my first post.I've been reading all your post...wow can't wait to get started on my truck...thanks for all the good advise. I haven't even put whrench to truck and already alot of problems are solved...thanks from another fng.

so i finally picked up the track to mount up the awning... and with a ton of help from Kevin (thanks) we got her up... I also picked some new canvas for her... (old one had a rip but I am sure it will get sewn / repurposed) rail was mounted (screwed into place with 5200 so its never going to come off!) 19' and big enough to put the buggy under...

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...5ee2e6cabd.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...cd55cbd62f.jpg

looks good.

Why is it on the drivers/road side ?

windows on the other side are vertical and would be some what blocked... als I do not have side door into the box but rather pass thru from the cab... thanks

looks great. I would love to get an awning for my toter.

Craig's list under rv I searched parting out... $200 and $250 new canvas...not bad for an A&E 9000 series. Retail is almost $2000!