What was I thinking?
 

I figured it's about time to start showing progress. this is my first attempt at a build thread for any of my projects. So bear with me. It started life as a line haul truck for I believe Watkins. Was stretched and converted into a 28 ft box truck for a plant nursery. I bought it out in Arkansas and drove it all the way home with no problems at all. 315k miles, 435 n14 cummins, super 10 trans.




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I needed to move the box forward 18 inches and add a sleeping loft for my daughter. I also needed to replace the fiberglass roof with aluminum.

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I bought an old travel trailer for the windows, doors, and the slide mechanism. and set up and framed the 12 ftx43 inch slide out.



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I cut and spliced the top rail 9ft back from the front and spliced in a 12ft section to add the 36 inch loft. I also framed everything up with 1x2 inch 1/16th wall box tubing. Much stronger that the z studs Supreme used and still fairly light.
All of the skin that has been removed is being replaced with new aluminum. I was planning on a repaint anyway, and why half ass it at this point.
Here is a pic of the left side with the skin replaced and windows.

You must have been thinking "This is an easy project and will be done quickly!".... Cool project and looks good!

Nice work so far, looking forward to seeing more progress pics.

very nice !!!! don't stop now !!!

What are you doing for rear bumper?

I'm currently planning on using a "Texas" front bumper on the rear. I'm planning on running the receiver tube for the hitch through the foot hold opening (since they are designed for the front)


https://www.4statetrucks.com/bumpers/...78-379_400.asp

Wow! That's quiet the undertaking!

Update
 

After finishing the left and right side paneling, I decided that roof should be the next project. My wife decided that a skylight this big was just going to leak.



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The new roof is rolled .060 aluminum. It is sold by the foot. This is a 35 ft roll.

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We used the forklift to lift it up to the roof. Centered it up at the front and let it fly. Wish I had a video, It was cool to watch. I then welded up a quick "attachment point" to the fork lift and clamped the rear of the roof to it to "stretch it" This will keep it from billowing as you go down the rood.

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Once stretched. We used new J molding and buck rivets to fasten it to the top rail. We used butyl tape between the roof and the top rail. We used grey Manus to seal the J molding. This should be a lifetime roof.

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The walls of the truck body are actually held together by the roof. Without it they are very flimsy and sway back and forth. The body is much stronger now.

Love the creative use of E-Track and vice grips :D
VERY nice progress!

I bought our local harbor freight (I didn't want to leave my nice ones out in the weather)out of vice grips twice. The lady said they're ordering system was based on sales. I think they are going to be overstocked shortly :)

Status report Mr Sulu
 

After much work with no noticeable progress. I finally have some pictures.
Now that the roof was on. I had to finish the bunk area above the cab. I slid the box back 4 ft. And installed a sheet of 16 gauge stainless to the bottom of the bunk area.

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Once we got that in place I got a sheet of 16 gauge plain steel and built the front of the box.
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Then I gutted the sleeper and cut my hole.
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After dodging some serious rain storms. we primed and painted the rood of the cab, the back of the cab and the front of the box. Once I join the two together there would be no way to paint them.
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Once the paint dried (and 5 more inches of rain) We moved the box back forward and bolted it down for the last time ( I hope). Here is how she sits now. Awaiting the sleeper boot.

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looks good - possibly the best looking sleeper cab I've ever seen converted

Holy cow Batman, This thing is long!

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how long is it??

40ft nose to tail. 29 ft box with a 3 ft attic. 102 inches wide.

ok well not all that long....many are 45 feet (we are 42).

your width is standard, i suggest measuring to the mirrors....just so you know (in case you get into a tight spot.

I have some reminders on both sides of the overhead console...i tell my passengers they have some responsibility to help and watch out too.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...e396890a5e.jpg

With the trailer I'll be 75 ft long. I wouldn't want a longer truck. This thing has the turning radius of the Titanic. Rides great though with the long wheel base.

imo ours tows a bit better w/ a loaded trailer....

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...08f85e1b6e.jpg

Is that trailer full beavers.....wonder how many?
https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...08f85e1b6e.jpg[/QUOTE]

for the good of my marriage & my future longevity....i will remain COMPLETELY silent. :rolleyes::cool:

Understood....... lol

but they are the elusive furless / bald variety :D

Captains log stardate 06july2016
 

I finally got this thing drivable again and took it to my local welding shop for some stainless welding.
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The "bunk" is now connected to the stainless radius panels on the front of the box. The bunk area is now water tight. :)
Now comes the fun parts. We ripped out all of the old oak flooring, and replaced the I beams that were over the rear tires. They were rusted beyond belief from the road spray. The current plan is 3/4 pt plywood with 3/8 hardee board and porcelain tile. I ordered some mobile home under lament to go between the plywood and the I beams. That should keep the water out nicely.
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Looking good!! That's going to be nice unit when you are done!:D

Well it's been awhile since my last update, so here goes.
I treated the entire box with ospho rust reverse and then with 3 coats of truck bed liner. We then laid down a layer of woven plastic (the stuff they use under mobile homes).
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On that we screwed down 3/4 pressure treated plywood.
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Once we got the main floor down It was time for the slide floor. After laminating a 4x12 ft sheet of 1 inch plywood, I covered it with the same black plastic stretched and glued in place. I then screwed the floor into the 1x2 box tubing sides.
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Next we used 3m vhb tape to attache the side of the slide.
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Sorry about the dar pics. It was a pretty late finish.

It was this point that my daughter dropped a pot on out porcelain tile at home and broke it. This got me wondering if my flooring plan would have to change.
I decided to scrap the porcelain tile I had picked out and go with a grout able vinyl tile.
Well this now meant that I needed to add another inch (backer board+tile+thinset) to my plywood. So break out the crew gun and add the extra plywood. At 1.75 inches of plywood this floor is REALLY sturdy.
Side bonus is that the slide now sits level on the floor and I can finally put the molding and roof on it..
1 piece aluminum roof, Same stuff I used on the main roof. vhb taped on and anchored by the face trim on the outside.
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Now that this thing is "dried in" We can focus on the inside. !st order of business was to add a wood firing strip to every wall stud. Next we built both walls (awaiting pocket doors).
This coach is going to have a 8ft x 9.5ft bedroom with a 8ft x 4.5ft walk through bath.
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At this point we are on a bit of a work/holiday/where did all of our money go? hold.

what a nice (insulated) build! you should be warm or cool....even in a cold (or is it warm) climate!

LOL. the plan is to use closed cell spray foam. at 2" that should giver us an r value of around 14. The roof is def getting regular fiberglass. we will have 3 inches at the edge and 5 inches at the peak, which is plenty of room for a good r value batt insulation.
Eventually I will remove the rear doors and build an exterior wall at the back. But it will be when we are done moving large stuff in and out.

as someone that lives in texas (and frequents virginia)....insulation is GOOD...its light and it saves fuel (generator & propane)!

Looks like you bought this truck from a good friend of mine....charlie. Great truck. Perfect for this conversion. I was looking at it when you were working out your deal.

Yes I bought it from charlie in Arkansas. The box required MAJOR amounts of work, but mechanically it's a GREAT starting point. I would def do it all over again.
Charlie was great to work with through the whole process.

great combo...n14 and super 10 with such a long box. great platform to start with. we have an 01 volvo with 60 series and a 10 spd autoshift. great mpg and we never run out of hp or torque. yours is a very time consuming and tedious project. well worth the effort in the end. one question...is there a reason you dont want closed cell spray foam in the ceiling? it sure would ad rigidity to that .060 aluminum roof. just curious.

All of the wiring is run in the ceiling.going spray foam would stiffen it up at the expense of service ability. I added about 10 extra roof bows when I rebuilt the box, so the roof is plenty stiff. There is no need to walk on the roof since there is nothing mounted up there.

i see. i used it on a box truck conversion and was very pleased. i like the idea that even if you get a leak in your roof it is stopped by the closed cell when it is applied directly to the roofing material. i look forward to watching the progress on your conversion.