Hi, new here, although I've been checking in every day for almost a year, I thought I'd attach a link to the Escapees MDT forum where I posted my project.

I did it, I made my move and cut my GMC 6500 frame into 4 peices on Sunday, this will be an RV someday.

I would appreciate any feedback or ideas.
thanks for letting me share.

Link;
https://www.rvnetwork.com/index...howtopic=73051&st=20

-blizz

Nice work blizzard! No turning back now :-) What year is your truck?

Nice work. Looks good. when do get your extensions?

2001 GMC 6500 100K miles, 3126 Cat 210hp 605 tq, fuller 6sp manual w/ OD 3.07 rear gears with 19.5 low pro tires 245/70R19.5
The truck has air ride rear, hyd. rear disc brakes and air ride seats. AC and Cruise is nice too!

My steel "inner plates" are to be cut and formed this week. I really hope to get it back to one piece by Sunday.

once it's back together, I can move my saddle tanks back behind the rear axle, then run fuel, air,and brake lines.
-blizz

Made a little headway this weekend, broke a bunch of bits, story and pictures on Escapees forum
link
https://www.rvnetwork.com/index...showtopic=73051&st=0

-blizz

Nice design and fab work blizzard! Did you design all of that yourself? I like how you used the continuouse lengths of prebent, prederilled plate to form the frame than extends from the front all the way to the rear. Are you boxing in the middle section for strength? Nice job, can't wait to see more as it progresses.

Thanks, ya I designed it myself, not much else to do in 20 below weather, I just sit in front of a CAD screen and dream n scheme. https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif
I'm going to try and get all 100+ bolts installed tonight, I'm still tossed about boxing in the middle, due to exhaust heat.
-blizz

I have a question or two about driveshaft angles, if you would like an update on my little project or would care to take a stab at my drive shaft delimma -heresss yourr link!

page 3
https://www.rvnetwork.com/index...showtopic=73051&st=0

blizz

also starting to design bolt in crossmembers, not sure what to do there quite yet.

blizzard; what are you loooking for? angles of the shafts should not be more then 3 degrees of each other and make sure you phase the yokes , or it will vibrate very badly. Crossmembers are to be strong enough to support the frame load, side load, and compression load. e-mail me for more info

Posted March 02, 2009 08:29 PM
Framebuilder, I think I understand that the crossmembers have to be strong, my problem is that I only have 11 inches to play with vertically. The driveshaft in that area is nearly level and if the carrier bearing bolt flange is rotated down, I have 2.5" up from the lower flange. Also I need a minimum of 8" diameter to slip the yokes thru the x-member. and 5" hole on the drivers side to run the 4" exhaust thru.

My latest plan is to build 2 flat almost boomerang shaped pieces of 1/4 plate folded up. One to bolt to my 1/2" bolts along the bottom of the center frame rail. I will then bolt the carrier bearing to this plate, and once the truck gets gently driven the 1 mile to the welding shop, this plate will also be welded in. I am thinking of building and identical plate that will bolt to the top bolts the same as the previous plate only upside down. but with the 14 crosmembers welded to create the floor frame would an upper v-shaped crossmember be necessary?

I know this sounds a bit strange, but this project is strange. I fully expect you to be scratching your head on my above explanation.
-blizz

ps I pm you this same message, then I remembered that your emails get hung up in my filters for 2-3 days so I posted back her. besides his forum could use some life. https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif

.....14?? my wrecker only has 7 total,,,,where did you get all the extras?.....my GVWR is 33k all considered- but is still plated as a class 6.5 ?....what gives were?....did I get bent over by the manufacture?....OOOoooo do I have a burning feeling!....geofkaye

I'm at home away from my work computer with my drawings, I believe their may be even more crossmembers I know I ordered 22 96" 2x2x.187 today, the rear cross on the back is 2x3x.187 and I'm sure I might have missed one or 2.

The box is 22' long with the 2x2's on 16" centers. that gets me roughly the 14 for the floor, as 2 of them are almost atop each other where the floor drops the 11". The other 6 will go under the frame. 3 in front, under the cab and transmission. The other 3 or 4 will go under the fuel tanks and generator behind the drivers.

In case you are wondering, if I should ever need to drop the trans out the bottom, I will just sawzall the tubes. I think it would be easier to just pull the engine and trans in one shot then split .

after typing this I think you are referring to the The factory cross-members on the truck frame. I had 4 behind the cab but I removed the far back one and replaced it with a heavy steel box to hold my water tank. if you need another factory cross-member, I have one laying on the floor next to my mess. You could use it as a boat anchor. https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif

here is a photo of my truck, notice all the 2x2 notches on my secondary rails https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...796cd59750.jpg

.....THANKS FOR THE INFO....GOT ME WORRIED SOME WHEN I THOUGHT I WAS MISSING A FEW.....course some days I know I'm missing a few of everything....thanks for the side view it explains things to me........cool project for those that like to work their butt off-course in cold weather what else is there to do?....best of luck and shoot a few pix for us now and then as you have time......geofkaye

Awesome! Very professional looking. Coming from a fabrication background I love everything metal and seeing it being transformed like this. Keep the pics coming. Great work!

Blizzard,
What are you using...AutoCad or SolidWorks? I'm trying to get my employer to send me to learn SolidWorks since that's what we use here. I have a copy of AutoCad LT at home but have not messed with it yet. I want to use one of the programs to make some designs for both a stretched HDT and a custom built 5th trailer and see which I like better. I'm leaning towards the 5th as I could unhitch and use the truck for daily driving.

I use AutoCad I have a copy of AutoCad LT 2005 that I bought but cannot get the CD to load on this new computer, so I am using an old (from work) CD of AutoCad 2000 with Mechanical Desktop. but in all the years I spent drawing professionally I only drafted in 2D so I don't use the 3d tools in the Mech desktop.

It is nice to use a platform that your steel fabricator can read so that they can just load your 2d drawing into their CNC plasma or laser and burn the parts out.

Also as far as pictures go, I have quite a few of them posted on a long thread on the escapees MDT site. check them out if you have a minute or 2

link
Blizzards MDT Conversion Plans

blizz

ps when you are working with steel, the area command in AutoCad helps figure out the weight of each part. I am finding that a steel weight chart is very handy, one it helps me keep the truck balanced front/rear axle and 2 figure 3 dollars a pound for steel that requires any cutting and forming. a simple piece of 3/8 plate gets expensive quick!

wow, I cannot believe that I have been registered on his forum for an entire year already, a lot has happened in that year, We found a truck, sold our Roadtrek, and started on the conversion.

This week was a new turn, after having our truck at a local trailer repair shop, we have pulled it and moved it to C & S Conversions in Watertown SD. It is with a bit of irony that Chuck at C&S is a high school friend of my wifes. I wish now I'd consulted with him from the very beginning, I think I would have saved thousands of dollars in metal fab and mistakes.

Check out my story line on the Escapees forum, I posted current pictures, and to post on both forums is redundant, but I much prefer the build it vs buy it attitude here.

https://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=73051

....I DON'T REALLY WANT TO GIVE ANY THING AWAY....BUT....if you have worked on any of the toters or MH's[TruckConversions] you will come to the conclusion that my crew did[and i didn't] and that is to build the inside after the structural steel is in place and then the plumbing and wiring insulation and then the outer skin.....just a little hint here-you might ignore it or consider it when building one yourself.....but we are tired of taking apart the inside many many times to get things to work well together or make those frustrating changes.....like changing a 15 amp wire[14ga] to a 20 amp wire[12 ga.] and such mundane things like that....windows are last btw......geofkaye

That is a very good point. geofkaye, when you have been there, planing ahead pays off. I put the back of my box in last, just for that reason. blizzardND. Nice jub you done, hope your builder stays with your project and parks his rase cars. This is race season , sometimes it's hard to stay away from the track, when you are headed to Knoxville, IO Good luck. Roadside

I have been very impressed with my last 2 calls to Chuck, he has told me of several things that they have fixed (including the closeness of the muffler to wiring) he has 3 (Experienced)guys on the project, and I believe today they will start with the walls.

My project is the only one in the shop, it's one of the few plus sides of this economy, if you have the opportunity to spend money, there are folks that during better times would have to squeeze you in, they will now focus their whole effort into getting your project done so that they can get that final check.

I don't think he's going racing anytime soon, his Sprint car was sitting there without an engine and he mentioned he had to send it and the spares to be rebuilt, but it is so slow at his conversion shop that he has no cash to bail them out.

It's a very tough market right now for new conversions, one glance at racingjunk.com and you can buy as many units as you want in whatever price range you want to spend.

If it wasn't for my 9' height limit, I could have saved 5-10 grand just by buying one of C & S's class 8's he has out front for sale.
-blizz

blizzardND:....from my experience you will never save any money having built what you want....believe me-my customers have economic freedom and will make changes and additional stuff during any build or rebuild...such is life. Most people want what they want and will spend what they have to get what they want....it is my job to make that happen within the amount that they want to spend or less....that is the bottom line of my success!........making what they want happen.......geofkaye

She made it home! Chuck and his crew did a great job and we are very happy "campers"

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...68790edb94.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...1d3e3b6e98.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...2dd3863da8.jpg

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https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...9ffae67535.jpg

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https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...0482afee8c.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...e10d7add63.jpg

.....See how this one does and how it fits you....-then start on the next one-.....it never ceases to amaze me one of the first things people say, "if we had to do it all over again, we would....." and then go into a explanation of how it should have been done and what they would do over , and in detail!....sometimes, included in the discussion is a drawing/sketch and even once, a small model..... you just know they have been thinking seriously about their situation and how to improve it......alas, I have seen some of their homes and they have remodeled them again and again....custom building is mostly making the impossible possible and then scrapping that idea and doing something else entirely.....it is an obsession/journey/exercise in madness.....but is sure fun! The theme is the journey-not the final destination......geofkaye

Thanks Geofkaye, yes I'd like a couple of do-overs,

first would be to spend the money on basement ducted AC, that would really help narrow the drop roof.

second, a more conventional lower side build out of tubing rather than laser cut sheet would have simplified things and possibly save me weight and a lot of money.

but the biggest thing would be I'd start with an International 4300 and maybe even an Auto transmission.

but man this 6500 rides nice, real smooth. yes I'd like to start again, especially with the idiots that built my shop with a 9' door!
-blizz

..BLIZZ:...let me tell you that the aero signature of your MH will more than make up for any changes in height...I have a 6500 wrecker and the best it will do in about 6.5 mpg in the city and maybe 8.0 on the highway....my 610 Volvo will do 8.8 all day long on the highway at 75+ and not break a sweat....in the city I usually get about 7.0 unless traffic is just not moving at all and I shut the damn thing off and take a nap with the generator on......you will do well on the highway with the design that you have....low and lean is the way to go these days unless you have a lot of cash you need to get rid of....fuel is $2.559 here this morning. Your unique design will pay for itself as I believe you are ahead of your game when It comes to the aero issue ....geofkaye

Good looking vehicle Blizz. Unique as well. What is the overall height limit? It looks like you can fit in more places than I.

just a note: you gotta watch those 4300s. they are very solid, but they ride too solid for my taste. besides, I like what you got now.

Doc Weaver

I don't know what the overall height limit is for you, Chucks Volvo is 13'-6" with a dropped roof for his 2 AC units. That's as high as I'd ever go. My height limit is set by a 9'-0" Garage door to store my rig, right now she is 8'-10.5" Because of the spread on my axles and the dropped driveway I clear the door with 2-3" https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif

About the fuel milage, I checked it returning home from Watertown, 150 miles straight into a 15-20 mph headwind.I was getting late,so I set the cruise control at 73-74, that way I wouldn't have to pass anyone. I had a little trouble fueling it up all the way with the big truck nozzles, so I don't think I got a good test of the fuel economy, I put 151 miles on it and put 17 gallons of fuel, so 8.88mpg https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_frown.gif

I'll try again next run out, next time I'll use the small nozzle fuel pump and take my time to let the tank burp out the bubbles.

I'm also going to recap my Michelin XDE's in the rear, I should pick up almost 1.5 in tire dia over my bald XDE's that should help drop my RPM's just a bit and still maintain my 75mph cruise speed.
-blizz

Mine is 12.5 feet but some of the driveways and back roads don't meet code. Check your fuel mileage at different mph too. By dropping from 70 to 65 I gain almost 2 mpg. That adds up on long trips.

Doc

Awesome rig Blizzard!!!!! What's the headroom inside? Can you post some interior pics? She's a beauty and has a nice looking profile. This would be a decent rig for suburban/city driving due to the low height that allows you to get into places that a taller rig can't. What was the overall approx cost of the conversion for those of us still in the dreaming/planning stage ;-) Great work!

Yes indead,,a nice looking vehicle, and the best thing about all..?? BlizzareND, you put a plan to action and have what best fits your needs. Most people have to put up with things that thay don't use or want, when having a RV. Now get on the road and make good use of it. Hope to see you on the road. Roadside

Hay Blizz, now you need to get some inside pics going. Everybody else, I just saw this truck yesterday. It's very cool. It's kind of like a truck conversion on weight loss and stomach stapling, or a roadtrek on steroids.

Todd, one other question? You have the gray tank on one side and the black on the other. You said you're going to install a pump to pump the gray to the other side with the black. I'm thinking it would be best to pump the gray into the black after you've drained the black, then flush the black (that now has gray water) at that point. It will take some time to pump all that gray over. I don't think you want to sit at the dump station blocking it while you wait to pump out your gray do you? You could flush the black, then start the transfer pump while you move out of the way, then come back and do the final flush. That would also give you a bit more cleaning out of the black tank. And, it would give you the ability to flush your drain hose with a rush of gray rather than a trickle from the pump.Maybe that's the way you were planning it anyhow? Just musing here.

Bob, Thanks for coming over yesterday, Darcy and I had a great time! Thank your son again for us for his service for our country. (Bob's son just returned home from Iraq a week ago)

I'll get some interior pics posted after I get the fridge back in and the cabinets doors re-hung. 'till then everyone can just imagine cherry stained oak hardwood with sawdust all over it. https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif

The transfer pump is a 110V 100 gal/min unit, I'll have to think over your suggestion I really have't thought about it much, I suppose there are pros and cons, but I'm not clear on any of it right now, which is kinda why I keep putting it off.

Hope you have a great weekend in NW Minn.
-todd

copied from my thread on the Escapees MDT Forum
Well I have a few minutes tonight to let you in on some of the "Progress" The truck had a vibration on deaccell when I brought it home, 600 dollars later we managed to change the pinion angle on the rear end by reversing the z-spring mounting blocks and machining them down a bit. It seems to run just fine now.

I also stumbled across a real nice set of used Sumitomo ST 918's for the rear, less than 500 miles on them, one run, that did not fix somebody else's vibration problem so he put his old tires back on. https://www.truckhome.com/infopop/emo...icon_smile.gif

We dismantled the rear queen bed and reconstructed as a full with a toe kick under it to help get around a bit easier.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...25e8b2db27.jpg

I also built some bedstands next to the bed and a place to sit in front of them, as the drop roof over the bed makes it difficult to sit up all the way.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...ebb66e3b70.jpg

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...e0f329de01.jpg

Water tank is located in an insulated box between the frame rails under bed storage

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...185d1d4f9c.jpg

We went to Menards bought cabinets, stained and varnished them and wired reading lights from Lowes.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...6702ef2c8a.jpg

The mattress was made custom for this application by the local Comfort King Mattress factory, they build mattresses however you want them, and will make any changes to them stiffer/softer for life! Ours is made 4" thick out of a mattress of 1.5" dia coils stitched together one next to each other.

We moved forward and added medicine cabinet and towel racks in bathroom, as well as some locks to keep my 50 lb solid core sliding doors from hammering closed when you take a corner too quick.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...af28902ed3.jpg

I got the upper cabinet installed next to the microwave and all the door/drawer handles so that I can open a drawer without breaking a fingernail.

https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...3b6ea5ddea.jpg

I thought I would include this picture, I took it with my cellphone when the truck was at the driveshaft shop when the were searching out my vibration problem, it shows how smooth the bottom of the truck is, I still have to make a panel made for under the genny right behind the hitch. note she is sheeted all the way up to the back of the steering axle.
https://www.truckconversion.net/attac...0431d43875.jpg

blizz

what did you do for corners of box where front and side walls meet? did you buy them or built your own. also from roof to front and rear walls on outside.

We made our own. On page 4 post 75, of my build log on the Escappees' Forum might help you see how it was framed.

https://www.rvnetwork.com/index...showtopic=73051&st=0

blizz