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Old 12-11-2012, 07:22 PM   #21
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Soundproofing Barriers for Car Noise Control I bought gen box liners there as well. Call them for your specific needs. They are good help, but know all your needs and specs before you call.

I believe they sell to the general public. If not, I will get it for you.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:48 AM   #22
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Awesome thank you!

I started getting some work done on this thing again. My friend had his beavy truck mechanic do full service on the truck. I have to leave for a race in CA in about a month and I am trying to get the conversion process imported in the eyes of the DMV before the trip. My plan b is to register it commercially for a month and drive it out there I have a CDl driver going with and myself and another driver going with can get our permits.

Anyways I built the steps and cut in the man door after work yesterday. I didn't have much time for pictures but I fabricated 2 steps out of .08" sheet metal and fully welded them then made a 2x2 x.083" box tube frame that goes all the way to the roof behind the skin of the truck to attach the door to.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:39 PM   #23
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Got the man door cut in on friday.



I built the steps out of .080" sheet metal and fully welded everything. I Framed the door in 2x2 .083" box tube. The first step is hollow and I will put a hatch in it when I get a chance.



The steps are 10" rise 10" run. I am going to run a 28 series kwikee step outside which gives me a 16" step off the ground and 10" steps everywhere else.

When i cut the steps in I realized that the decking had most of the bolts broken we we refastened the floor then went about insulating the floor.



The floor has been padded up with ripped down 2x3's 2' on center. We used low expanding foam to stick 2" ridgid insulation down between the sleepers and glued 1/2" sanded plywood down with PL400 and screwed everything down.

The camper portion will be 8'6" inside with a queen sized bed that sticks into the garage area 5'5" off the floor. This bunk will be removable so I can have a full garage or a full master bedroom.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:23 AM   #24
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a queen sized bed that sticks into the garage area 5'5" off the floor. This bunk will be removable so I can have a full garage or a full master bedroom.when you get to that point please take detailed pictures of each step;as I am doing the same and I'm stumped on how I can have a queen bed and still have the garage when traveling.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:39 AM   #25
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Got a ton done this weekend

furnace and water heater installed





bathroom walls are up.



Rear wall/bunk are finished. the bed and walls are stressed skin with a wood frame and 2" insulation inside them. With the bunk being 66x96 and only supported on the edges it is crazy rugged and pretty light. it is a 2 person job to install, but it is pretty easy. For sheathing we used 3/16 subfloor material from home depot. it is easy to work with pretty clean and knot free.

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Old 01-07-2013, 08:45 AM   #26
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do you have a roll up door or swing doors on rear?
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:14 PM   #27
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Have some detail pics of the bunk framing?I so want to do a bunk like that and claim back so floor space.how much room is under the bunk and above.What did you attach the bunk too?
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvoman View Post
do you have a roll up door or swing doors on rear?
Swinging doors in the back

Quote:
Originally Posted by daddywoofdawg View Post
Have some detail pics of the bunk framing?I so want to do a bunk like that and claim back so floor space.how much room is under the bunk and above.What did you attach the bunk too?
I didnt get any pictures of the framing, but it was pretty straight forward. 2"x 3/4" thick maple (because I had it) on all sides then 16" across the short side. We put 2" rigid inside it. we skined it in 3/16 subfloor material on the back side and 3/8" sanded plywood on the top. That just sits on cleats that are glued and screwed to the sides.

The rear wall is framed the same. There are cleats on both sides of the of the wall on the ceiling. The rear wall sits on the same cleats the the bunk portion sits on, The wall kind of slides into place and cleats hold it in from behind. On the rear wall there is a cleat on the bottom that the rear side of the bunk catches on. I have attached a few photos.

The orientation is totally out of wack on the uploaded pictures. the pic rotated to the right is a view from the back of the truck forward. The second pic is a view looing at the side of the truck from under the bunk. The third is looking twords the back of the truck from the bunk.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #29
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After this weekend this thing is just about ready for our trip to ca. We have A propane system and all the major appliances have a reasonable home. All the windows are installed.





I'll try to get more pictures of the interior tomorrow, but it is really coming together.




My race rig actually fits inside. Spiegel scrap metal hooked me up with 2 aluminum u-haul style ramps that work awesome. I think If I find the right hill and I air down the bags in the truck I could fit my chevy cruze in the back too.

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Old 02-19-2013, 08:12 PM   #30
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Sorry for the lack of updates. We took the truck on a 6,000 mile shake down run to California and back. Even though it is not torally finished it is an awesome way to travel. We towed my 24' aluminum trailer with 2 quads 2utv's and 2 dirt bikes and put my Rock buggy in the truck. The entire mess was 72' long. I never weighed the entire combo but the loaded truck minus trailer was just over 26,000#. We were bucking headwinds and likely driving a bit too fast for prime efficiency so we got horrible fuel economy ( between 6 and 7 mpg). The only real issue we had was the fuel gauge stuck at 1/8 and we ran out of fuel in Missouri. We lucked out and a road side service company was at out side in under 20 min and had us going quickly. All in it cost is $10 dollars a gallon for 20 gallons of fuel so it wasn't too bad

The return trip was flawless. We ran the truck at 68 mpg which put the engine at peak efficiency (1600 rpm) and we managed to get between 9.5 and 10.2 mpg over 3000 miles. That is better than my duramax pickup loaded
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:15 PM   #31
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I'm interested in the pass-through between sleeper and box, did you do it? Do you have photos, and what is the source (and cost) for the seal between them?

By the way, great job!
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeech View Post
I'm interested in the pass-through between sleeper and box, did you do it? Do you have photos, and what is the source (and cost) for the seal between them?

By the way, great job!
Check out this one... source for accordian gasket...

http://www.truckconversion.net/forum...ul-build-7096/
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