Just getting started

IMO.....since you are using a MIG welder I suggest you cover the cab with a material that will stop the sparks from sticking to the glass which will cause you to have to replace the windshield-mirrors and window glass. It might also be advisable to keep welding sparks out of the cab....and make sure that no sparks get near your airlines on the brake system.....unless you like to cut and splice.....other than those suggestions.....good start!....the clock is ticking till roll-out!.....geofkaye

As Geof said- Nice Start!
You're actually doing what I think I will do; use a cab w/ a sleeper like an extended cab pickup, for extra in-transit seating, plus giving you the extra space to recline the drivers seat when desired.
Great minds DO think alike! ;-)
Gary

.....I learned one thing this trip....I can't sleep in a recliner....I need that bunk!.....or I can't walk the next day....and whizzing out the window is considered tacky-even in a truck stop.....geofkaye

Looks Great, If you do not mind how much time do you have in it starting with fab of deck & frame. Not counting doing the chassis. Marc

Hey Kaye, I read your post about your seat time in a White for 6 months. Very good choice in going back to school and gettin sum lernin, Sounds like ya went the whole route with a gettin a one of them high falootin degreez's. Hell I spent 10 yars in a 4 yar program just tryin to get a lernin sum. I wasa one dem Road Scholors anda wen done dat eye went ona be cummin a professional peoples like u un. Now I justa practice my schoolin stuff on da side. On any side she wants.her and 3 sisterz & momma and they bring there Ants over two once or three timez aweak.

Uhh, Marc?
Just wut part uh them hills U from boy?
Gary

....dead give away!....Road not Rhodes .....geofkaye

Well looks like I got about 55 hours to date. 1/31. I had someone else do the frame ext. (strongly recomended)$5k for the ext. and moving the tires back one set of holes. The subframe and floor went on very quick, one Saturday. Then came the corner posts and walls. Getting everything perfectly square when it is vertical is a little more time consuming. Thanks for the advice on covering the cab. I need to cover my cab opening. My front windows are pretty bad already, prior to me buying the truck. I lucked out on the air lines, no holes yet. As soon as I get it framed, I'll pull it off the truck to sheet against the cab.

....where are you located RBlack?....geofkaye

Mornin RBlack, Looks real good so far. I understand about doing the frame, I will never do another myself. So you are at 55 hrs. into the steel subframe and floor? You are doinig real good!! Are you doing it full or part time? When can we see more pics. Good Job!!!! Hey Gary I got more rise out of you then I did Kaye, He must not be feeling to good. Hey Kaye you allright????

Marc, Marc, Marc.
I can tell you're having WAYYYYY too much fun today.
We don't wanna rile Geof too much, now, do we?
Hmmm? Hmmm?
Gary

Geof I'm in Eagle Mountain Utah. West of Lehi (I15)9 miles. Lehi is about 20 miles south of down town Salt Lake City. Anybody around the area doing a conversion? Thanks for the pointers. My kwikee electic steps came today, now I can start laying out my stairs. What slide out hardware do you like to use?

Marc, I'm just a part timer, love welding, big trucks and have a cabinet shop. I've been dreaming and planning this for several years, finally coming true. I try to get 3-4 hours in a night, plus my study and research(countless hours there). Thanks for everyone's help. I'll get some more pics up as soon as you can see more progress. Should have the frame done next week. Rich

Here are some more photos, let me hear what you think.

Rich

....are you using OSB on the bottom of the deck?....coat that with a serious layer of undercoating or some thing waterproof--it will swell and degrade after being wet ONLY 5 times......UNLESS YOU ARE USEING THE NEW OSB WITH THE WATERPROOF GLUE-URETHANE I BELIEVE THEN IT IS- WARRANTED FOR 50 YEARS. I got a piece in a bucket outside all winter about 4 inches wide and about 16 inches long....soaking in water and ice from September IIRC....still a board not a wet pulp!....Floor is important to keep flat and dry at all times.......there is no way to repair unless you do a rip out-which I did on my first Airstream trailer.....what a bitch it was to do but I got it done and replaced with the Urethane OSB.....about $50 a sheet here now for 3/4".....geofkaye

Yes it is new osb. Purchased in January. However, I have a buddy in the garage coating business that is going to come help me coat the underside before I lay it down. I like the t and g factor, but maybe MDO (marine plywood) would be better. I do plan to use MDO for my storage boxes. I thought mdo was really expensive, but after checking with my cabinet wood supplier it about $30/sheet. What do think Geof? Keep the osb or go with the mdo? Maybe I'll take a piece like you did and see if it has the new waterproof glue.

...reflooring is a bitch....make sure on your the floor selection...I'd hate to do an Airstream again...not only that but the issue of black mold is starting to make the rounds of the trailer builder industry....be-aware of the black mold issue....seems some of the FEMA trailers are having a problem.....$22,500 each a unite and they got a mold problem?......the formaldehyde problem was to be solved and now I hear about black mold in the unites.....I get the information from the hospitals in the area....all hospitals exchange information on what is brewing in the healthcare industry as will as the funny farm and the M&M updates.....try out the new ureaglues for OSB and plywood...I t hing you will be sold....geofkaye

Geof
What about the roof and interior. I was going to sheet the roof with 7/16 osb along with the inside walls. Will that be okay?

Rich

....I use 3/8" exterior plywood G1S for interior finish and do the seams with 4" strips of 1/8 luan 3 ply....'course I paint or carpet/use 1/8 inch foam/ cloth....over the wood- I hate the natural wood look cuz I taught Highschool wood shop for 100 years or so.....I never want to see the grain of natural wood again.....[Including my coffin-I want Stainless steel welded] anyway plywood won't react to moisture like OSB and has less glue in it so there fewer VOC's and formaldehyde to off gas.....plywood will stand up to some flexing without ripping at the screwholes...and will not split when the girls crank down on the screws too tight...any glue will stick to plywood[Elmers] but won't do well on OSB without scuffing up the surface...there is some kinda coating for rain resistance....OSB can only be wet 5 times before it is mush- plywood is somewhat more weather resistant is the edges are painted after cutting...OSB has an interesting surface after it is painted but plywood is always the same....sealer on OSB is recommended....IMO, OSB is good for housing but doesn't stand up very well to motorhome use....Though I'd never use anything but the urea glued 50 year warranty OSB for the floor....geofkaye