Using 3 kinds of switches.

The PCM harness needs a push button to activate the starter. You'll put the key to run and then push a start button to crank it over.

The fuel sender in the small Nissan Micra tank can be selected to display on the factory fuel gauge through a splice made on plug G at the back of the instrument panel. The sender is the same ohm rating as the old Dodge sender and gauge.

The 3 extra gauges- temperature, pressure, and vacuum are to help tune the overdrive circuit.

A vacuum switch opens at whatever vacuum level is selected and shuts power off to the OD circuit. As the throttle opens the vacuum drops and the transmission goes back to third gear. The vacuum gauge helps tune that point.

The electrical pressure gauge has a sender on both the engine oil pressure port and the transmission governor port. Both run into a selector switch. The governor port puts out 1 psi per mph so there are 2 adjustable pressure sensors tapped into it along with one of the pressure gauges senders. The idea is to have the transmission shift into overdrive at, say, 42 mph and then the torque converter clutch lock up at 46 mph. With the gauge switched to transmission the shift points can be monitored for possible adjustment. Once that is complete the gauge is switched to engine oil pressure.

The final selector switch is for the temperature gauge. One sensor in the return line for the transmission cooler to see how efficient it is and the other behind the engine coolant thermostat to help set the electric cooling fan switch temperature setting.

The overdrive and torque converter lockup circuit can be switched on with a lighted LED switch. The click clack transfer pump from the 50 gallon tank to the Nissan tank containing the fuel injection pump works on a similar switch with a red LED. That switch can only run until the Nissan tank shows full.

The auxiliary gauges aren't shown. They'll sit on the doghouse until various tuning is complete.Attachment 3686Attachment 3687Attachment 3688

The 7 holes in the hood latch support represent 5% of the exposed rad face. Every bit helps.

Testing the instrument lights circuit for the new push button start. Still needs the key, but this button runs the starter through the PCM.

More of that roll of steel strap. This time as mounts for added relay box-

Overdrive/torque converter lockup up.

Auxiliary alternator field circuit via key to RUN.

Click clack fuel transfer pump from main to fuel injection (Nissan) tank.

AC compressor. Truck had dealer air with no relay to engage AC clutch. Modern compressor with new clutch might need some protection via a relay and fuse.

The relay box will get spun 180° to keep that gaping hole out of any weather.Attachment 3689Attachment 3690Attachment 3691Attachment 3692

Gave up trying to use the aftermarket relay box. Too confusing.

Now 4 separate water proof relays and 5 water proof fuse holders.Attachment 3693

I super glued the fuse holders to their respective relays. Also soldered the relays output wires directly to its matching pin in the fuse holder thereby eliminating 4 joints in the wiring. And making the whole thing a bit more compact.

All the switches in place and dash back to semi normal.

Fuses and relays tucked in box. Old school voltage regulator is for second alternator feeding house battery. The VR is adjustable and will get bolted up once I get the engine running and set the voltage through a pot in the back of the unit.

Put a RUN circuit bus in as everything new seems to need a connection with key in RUN to function. Mounted it where not poor slob can get at it. And see it. Love the old clutch rod hole plu in the floor for getting through the firewall all neat and tidy.



Attachment 3694Attachment 3695Attachment 3696
Attachment 3697

Two photos of the key at RUN + bus.Attachment 3698Attachment 3699

This is the early hemi accelerator pedal position sensor box. I used this because the A518 transmission needs a throttle position signal through its TV (throttle valve) cable. It does the same thing as the old kickdown rods.

I added the box at the left side to bring the TV cable in opposite the pedal cable. It's made up of leftover 1-1/4" steel strap from the Nissan gas tank. Handy stuff.

The pivot is a drilled out hole in the arm. The TV cable needs no slack and 1-1/2" travel. Same as the pedal so the math works out. The pivot bolt rides in a machined down "holed binder bail" that I reduced to fit by chucking it in my drill and pushing it against a file. Aluminum chewed down to size easily. Lots of anti seize and a few washers and bolts and it's done. No $300 Chev throttle body using a cable.

Important to put key to run and slowly cycle gas pedal once to teach PCM the range from idle to WOT.

Also the box is not yet attached to the engine as there are lots of pieces fighting for space.

Attachment 3700Attachment 3701Attachment 3702

Now to get a cold air intake working.

Pulled the throttle body off and gave it a clean while it was out.

Found a plumbing coupler. Fits on throttle body and is made of some kind of rubbery plastic. Drilled a 1/2" hole in it for the 9/16" diameter air intake temperature sensor. Jammed it in. I am hopeful it will stay put and not get eaten by the intake.

Next is a cold air hose to the KnN cone filter.Attachment 3703Attachment 3704Attachment 3705

Found 3 inch cold air intake tubing on Amazon.

Had to cobble it to an old B van cold air pipe and the 2007 Aspen air box gasket yo match up with a K&N filter. Used aluminum HVAC tape to seal the joints and then covered them with black Gorilla tape for looks.

Found a PCV filter with a 3/4" ID nipple and clamp for cheap. That hooks up with a 3/4×3/4 barb fitting and a piece of curved hose off the 2007 Aspen's gas tank vent system. This way the condensed fumes will roll back into the crankcase. Amazon again!Attachment 3706Attachment 3707Attachment 3708Attachment 3709Attachment 3710

Motor sat for so long the oil pump lost its prime. Would not produce any oil pressure while I cranked it over. I pulled the fuel pump relay to be sure it wouldn't start dry.

Ended up draining the crankcase out into a modified pressure sprayer. Pulled the pressure sensor out and screwed in a 1/4" hose barb. Added a piece of 1/4" ID clear tubing to the sprayer and pumped it back into the motor. Crank it a few short times while pumping to spread the lube around.

After a few load of oil pumped through the sprayer into the engine I replaced the pressure sensor and hit the starter button. 20 seconds in I had 25 psi.

Next I ran the click clack pump to transfer the 5 gallons of fresh gas to the Nissan tank with the fuel injection pump. It leaked. I put the nylon to hose barb fitting together wrong and it nicked the nylon line into the tank.

First firing of motor in 18 months. It's a little rough initially, but it is now running smoothly.

Still up on jackstands. Tires turn when it gets put in gear.

Funny overheating issue like an air pocket. More after the weekend.

Cheers!Attachment 3711

Tuned the cooling fan to kick on at 192° same as the thermostat I put in. Re soldered the old rad inlet I capped off with the sacrificial anode as it was leaking.

Made a funnel from a Gatorade bottle to help bleed the rad of air.

Ran my Bluetooth OBDII dongle and checked temp, voltage, catalytic converters temps, and a other stats. All good. Idle at 625 rpm and rock steady. Hot idle oil pressure is 27 psi.

Tomorrow grease the front end and u joints and take for a short spin. Maybe install the doghouse first.

Ensuring max fresh air through the rad.

Note bumper holes are offset from center like engine is.

Making ducting to keep forcing the air through the radiator not around it.

The license plate will get lowered to.

There's almost 6 inches of radiator blocked by the bumper and trim with nothing to stop it from avoiding the rad and going around it.Attachment 3712Attachment 3713Attachment 3714

Here's a short start up video.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NAK29nFoW2eX1Grr6

Built sheet metal air dam to force air from grill through the radiator.

Front end back together.

First test drive on the roads. Runs sweet.Attachment 3715Attachment 3716Attachment 3717

Test drive today with doghouse on.

Wow! Full throttle with 4.10 gears and a tight PATC transmission is a blast. Even at 9000 lbs.

This truck rocks. Perfect exhaust note.

Overdrive working and can't wait to get out on the highway to see the improved mileage.

Haven't done a long drive yet.

Impressed by instant starting, no gas fumes, quick warm-up, smooth torque curve, plentiful charging amperage, no leaking exhaust, and no stinking exhaust thanks to catalytic converters.

Welcome to 2007 old boy!

Got the third gear to overdrive hunting issue solved. I bypassed the vacuum switch meant to drop the positive feed to the overdrive solenoid. No more hunting. It'll run to well over the highway speed limit in overdrive with no lugging. I suspect the switch has an intermittent issue.

Can't wait to test the gas mileage on the highway.

I finally got out on the highway for a 150 mile run at speed. Mostly at speed because the traffic is so bad even on a Saturday afternoon.

Of course strong headwinds had to interrupt a smooth day between traffic jams.

I took the photo just as the Nissan 10.8 gallon tank went dry.

That's 166.8 miles or 15.4 mpg. I don't believe it so I've put exactly 15.9 gallons in the main tank, ran the auxiliary tank dry, and will burn off the 15.9 as a second test.

I may have overfilled the auxiliary tank with the click clack pump so this test will be much more accurate.

The transmission shiftpoints need some tuning as it doesn't downshift without absolutely standing on the loud pedal. No problem as I've still got the vacuum switch sitting right on the doghouse. Attachment 3719

The truck is a blast to drive. No stinky fumes, no cracked or waped exhaust manifolds, cool floors, and much less engine noise. Gonna have to install my new weatherstripping now.

Leggs got me a great Christmas present based on the almost, as of today, 23,000 views this project has generated on this forgotten old forum:

So thanks to you mystery readers for making this old truck world famous.

Happy New Year!

We hope to see you on the road

3 way propane equipment
 

I first saw these portable propane 3 way chest freezers when I worked in the bush in the 1980s.

I bought my first used Unique freezer in 2011. It was already 10 years old. It was built in South Africa. They used butane fired refrigeration in remote areas for years. Obviously solar has changed all that. All the new propane units are from China.

I realized my write up for the Cubicle has no photo of the built in fridge with the separate chest freezer so I took one yesterday. The chest freezer was new sitting in an abandoned body shop and cost me $300. The fridge is used, about 30 years old, and was $75. The tank slung underneath was in a 1982 Sportsmobile I flat towed home from Atlanta. You can see why I went with propane instead of solar. Plus we don't get guaranteed sun drenched boondocking sites here. That said we run interior- fridge, freezer, and 2 burner cooktop. Outside- 3 burner camp stove, Mobicool portable 3 way chest cooler, grill, and soon a propane firepit. And we make ice instead of buying it. Leggz actually brings homemade frozen bread dough along.

The fridge, freezer, and cooler run off the second alternator I put on the hemi. Then propane when we are camping.

I've never seen anyone else with the 3 way chest coolers or a 3 way freezer on the road. People can't understand how the flame and warm exhaust make for cold beer. Me neither...

We're on the road to the southwest and loving the ease of driving the Cubicle with the 2007 hemi engine and the A518 transmission.

I met Zack today. He has a 1977 Ford C class RV and was parked beside us at a truck stop.

He recognized the license plate frame from the photo here and introduced himself as a reader of this forum.

Great to be recognized so far from home by an energetic home builder like Zack. Travel safe. Find a way to send me your email address. I have a Cubicle tee shirt I forgot to give you. Not used to all the publicity!

If you see us say hi.

Cheers,

G.

24,122 views!

Sensor failure
 

The heart of the system that gets the accelerator pedal position information to the engine computer is an accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS).

These were mounted under the battery in the 2003 and 2004 Hemi trucks to convert the mechanical pedal motion into an electronic signal. Later trucks got a sensor built into the pedal.

The advantage for engine swaps like this one is that it allows the addition of another cable that gives pedal position info to the transmission through what is called a TV or throttle valve cable. The old school transmissions like A727 or A518 (used here) will burn up unless they match oil flow to throttle position.

In other words the box with the pedal sensor in it has another cable attached to the sensor that moves a lever on the transmission matching throttle position.

A box that ties the gas pedal, position sensor, and TV cable is available through the aftermarket, but I built my own to save money.

The APPS I had was used. On the 2250 mile drive I noticed a flat spot in the throttle where there was no change in engine tone. I hooked up my phone app to the OBD2 port on the engine computer and was able to monitor relative throttle position while driving. That confirmed a flat spot between 42% and 84% only on the way up, but smooth on the way down. Eventually the engine computer said no, too many out of spec throttle positions, and left me in the left lane of I-40 with no throttle. Luckily I coasted up an off ramp and pulled over.

The engine would idle so I left it running with the 4 way hazard lights on. I cleared all the road trip junk off the doghouse, put the dogs safely in their crates in the back, and pulled one bolt out of the doghouse. I hoped I had left my spare APPS on top of the engine next to the box with the operating one.

Pulling the doghouse off on the side of the road at night is a pain in the ass. After the first bolt was out I stopped and thought the situation through.

Even if the spare APPS was sitting on the motor I would have to clear the engine computer error codes to get it to work properly. Why not clear the codes now and see if the existing APPS would work. I cleared the codes, fired it up, and the throttle worked. I promised the gods of motor fuel acceleration I wouldn't go too deep into the gas pedal and we were off without pulling the doghouse.

She made it all the way to Arizona.

AZ and the fix
 

Getting to our Arizona destination was great. A bit goofy speed wise with the pooched APPS, but liveable.

Next issue the HOA or homeowners' association.

Staying with family is great. This community used to let you park an RV in the main club parking lot while visiting. Not in your host's driveway, but close by. No camping, just parking.

That parking salvation is no more. You apply and can receive a 24 hour RV loading and unloading permit for your host's driveway.

A one week stay means two 24 hour permits and somewhere else for the van for 5 days. Nearest town is 8 miles away.

I pulled in to a repair shop in that nearby town with doors high enough for the Cubicle and booked an oil change for the middle of my stay. I asked the young man if I could drop off the van a few days before the scheduled change and he agreed. The shop is closed Sundays.

So I dropped it off 24 hours later. I checked on it through Saturday and there it sat.

Sunday I went to work. I had pulled all my tools out before dropping it off so I gathered those and pulled the doghouse.

I had received a new Mercedes spec APPS from eBay. A video by some hemi gurus pointed out that Mercedes and Dodge, with the same owners in the early 2000s, used the same APPS. They are available singly for about $60. The Dodge piece is not available from Mopar. It is available as TH456 from Standard/Bluestreak buried inside the box that bolted under the early hemi truck batteries. That box is called a bellcrank. $350 from Rock Auto.

The new Mercedes piece fit perfectly. Size, shape, and bolt holes aligned perfectly.

The plug for the wiring harness was out to lunch. No pig tail wiring repair either. Not a lot of Mercedes sitting in local yards for a connector either.

So off to O'Reilly auto parts to get a TH456 for a truck only built in limited numbers 20 years ago.

Timothy at O'Reilly said he could indeed get one, and could match Rock Auto's price. Only issue was it was in his warehouse and I would have to wait for it.

For 2 stinking... hours!

Credit card in machine. Bellcrank delivered.

Sunday was a great day to install it.

Test drove it while monitoring throttle position and with doghouse off. Worked fine. Sure got hot when radiator cooling fan kicked in. Yikes that thing can really move air.

Oil change next Wednesday. Three more days of "storage", and then on the road again.

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The Cubicle made it home today from its inaugural trip to the southwest.

About 5,000 miles total.

A special shout out to Jerrell at the O'Reilly auto parts store in Toledo for helping me get the right transmission fluid for the A518 as I blew through town.

More news on what needs fixing after some sleep, but suffice to say the Cubicle made it home!

The team at Hotwire in Mena, Arkansas posted a photo and some nice words about the Cubicle's recent visit.

List of broken stuff:

2 worn out shocks, both way undersized. One lost its lower rubber isolator, rattled to beat the band, and was cut out and replaced in AZ. Both were leaking after the beating they took on the potholes we hit on the interstates. I found a Monroe RV shock and had 2 shipped. Much larger piston than the econo crap pieces in it. #555037 $45 ea at Rock Auto

I'll replace both when I do the driver's side upper control arm.

The Dorman add a drain plug kit. Have to pull the transmission pan. Underside of Cubicle well oiled. Back windows too.

Lower rad hose clamp needs a turn or two.

Speedometer not working. Cable needs to be longer. May go to electronic unit from old 1993 Dodge. I have a Dakota speed sensor and control box bought for anticipated cruise control installation.

Move rad fan controller to drier location.

Add way more transmission cooling capacity. This may scale back once transmission leak is fixed and it will hold constant amount of fluid.

Raise auxiliary alternator voltage to compensate for what freezer and fridge pull when operating. 17 amps. Plus 5 amps to get alternator fields working. Plus enough to keep NVLA battery active.

Pull filter off oil fill vent pipe and plumb into intake. Running wide open gets a bit o stink back into cab from poorly sealed dog house.

Did clean up all the dog barf from our last night in Illinois. Shop vac to the rescue.

I'll post photos when I get these done.

Be well.

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