Meet Moby
 

Hi, my name is John Beech and we're located in central FL.

I've been reading a lot and recently acquired a truck, which I named Moby because she's large, white, and well . . . whale-like (yes, I name everything). She's got an auxiliary drop axle just forward of the drive wheels, which I rather doubt we'll ever need to use, but they're there and nicely tucked up out of the way.


https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...2-rear-3-4.jpg

I hope Moby is a good candidate for conversion. She's a sleeper-cab equipped over-the-road 21' box-truck with a rear roll up door and a Maxxon lift gate. She's what's called an expeditor in the trade. Anyway, Moby has a Caterpillar C10 engine (350hp, I believe), an Eaton 10-speed autoshift, and is equipped with 3.42 gears. She's a Freightliner Century ST built on a Mercedes chassis and how I got her is an interesting story best told in person.

I just had her PMed and the only surprise was what I figured to be a $5 seal on the steering box (where the pitman arm shaft protrudes) plus labor, turned into an $1100 R&R. Otherwise, she seems to be a pretty decent truck and now has a fresh DOT sticker (though I intend to retitle her as a motorhome).

Does anybody have a clue what I can expect variable costs to be, e.g. fuel mileage? I've budgeted for 8 mpg because looking through the fuel computer this is what she's been getting, but that seems awful low compared to what I have heard others on this forum say.

Anyway, conversion plans are pretty basic because we don't intend to develop wanderlust - not in a serious way. E.g. a place to rest our heads, shit, shower, and shave, plus some desktop space and work benches for 2-3 days at a stretch. Basically, I plan to use her to attend a few weekend model helicopter events during the flying season (March-September). I'm thinking a reasonable split will be about 12-14' for living quarters, and the remainder for model workshop. I think I can fit the Sportster back there so as to have wheels for local travel. That, plus maybe the BBQ grill (we'd generally rather eat out, or buy from onsite vendors). Both should fit nicely before unloading to make walk around room in the workshop.

Also, Moby's got bunk beds in the sleeper, but based on the photos below of a 2013 Expediter equipped as compact office (with fold-out bed), I think this space might better be repurposed thusly because after 35 years of marriage, I'm too used to having Lynn in my bed to deal with bunks. Anyway, smart gal that she is, she suggests perhaps a recliner and a flat screen would fit nicely . . . care to lay a bet where I'll find her while I'm chatting with fellow modelers? She's so transparent sometimes!

Anyway, the inside of an empty wooden box is what I have to work with. This isn't a photo of my box, just a better photo than what I have, but you get the idea. One difference, however, is mine has the translucent fiberglass roof and four rows of J-lock rails down the walls instead of three. Meanwhile, I'm thinking a man door and electric steps on the starboard side for normal access aft of the drive wheels.

In closing, does this look like a reasonable foundation/vehicle for my plans? Thoughts?

First of all, I name vehicles too. My truck was named by my daughter, Grande Rojo.

I was looking for a Hot Shot/Expediter at first. There are lots of possibilities for this truck.

Had a pleasant surprise today when I discovered the 20' box is actually 23' - yipee!

Marketing guys, give 'em an inch and they take a foot. My box measures out to 23' inside . . . but it's a 24' box according to the literature - go figure!

I'm not planning on a pass through between the sleeper and the box. Moreover, I am thinking of remodeling the sleeper into an office. This means the box has to be sleeper, workshop, and contain SSS (shit, shower, and shave) facilities. Cooking gets short shrift as we eat out a lot anyway so maybe a microwave and fridge but it's unlikely we install the rest of a kitchen, e.g. cook top or oven. Moreover, I doubt we install two sinks (kitchen and bathroom) because one will do nicely. Anyway, all truck conversions are unique and in our case, no kids or guests means we keep it very informal - just one bed for me and Lynn, and it can fold down form the wall.

In separate threads I have asked questions about:

20KW genset: https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...r-anyone-6285/
LP Tanks: https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...rsion-fl-6298/
Toilets: https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...ring-fan-6291/
Tires: https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...my-truck-6286/
Potable water: https://www.truckconversion.net/forum...303/#post39384
Murphy beds: https://www.liftcoinc.com/product.htm...ft+Folding+Bed

I'm getting close to begin building what I need.

Good to know I am not alone. Just bought a 2005 - 24' International box van today. Only difference. I will have a wood shop in back to build 'ukulele and other instruments.

I am tossing around various floor plans, but haven't landed on one yet. I would love to add an attic for sleeping, but I don't know that that is an affordable option. I plan to use the fron 11 ft for living space and the back for my shop. My van also has a lift gate that I thought was a must to lift tools and alternate local transport in and out of van. Keep me posted on your progress and I will do the same.

My plans, as I am wont to do, involve keeping it simple. In this case, an open plan largely consisting of a multipurpose room instead one compartmentalized with single purpose rooms.

For example, vice the sleeping arrangements. I cannot under any circumstances foresee building a dedicated bedroom. Or worse, adding the complexity of slides in a desperate attempt to keep it from feeling like what it is . . . a claustrophobic space about the size of a small walk-in closet. Instead, I envision just one dividing wall, which splits the 23' long interior space into a 4' wide bathroom and a 19' foot workshop/bedroom combo. The latter being reconfigured as the need arises.

For example, the forward 4' for a bathroom because nobody but us will be going there. Accessed via a 2' 0" door (standard bathroom door width in most homes), the resulting 48" leaves ample space for a 38" radius corner shower, toilet, and sink. Plus, with careful planning, space for hanging clothes, storing towels, and a microwave (above the toilet). I'm also thinking of placing a 100A electrical panel in the bathroom if there's a place for it.

Along those lines, since the space above a shower is otherwise wasted, I'm comfortable with placing a 95 gallon potable water holding tank above the shower, which leaves 7' clear (higher than I can reach). This maximizes use of the bathroom cube, and hews to my multipurpose principal. Note the term 'cube' because in essence, I am thinking in terms of cubic space like a space station designer versus a traditional architect configuring square footage.

Locating the water tank above the shower is largely driven by consideration of the reduced 'basement' cube available in my particular truck (due to an auxiliary axle). While an obvious concern centers on the 1000 pounds of mass (95 gallons plus tank and structure) mounted high, e.g. posing an increased roll over risk, this is offset by the simple fact the 22,400 pound truck is a) designed to carry 30,000 pounds of cargo, and b) it's not a sports car anyway. Regardless, I'm sanguine about this risk and on balance (pun intended) don't think it's a deciding consideration.

This leaves 19' of box for my workshop/sleeping combo area. Since the one wall has a 2' bathroom door, this leaves space for perhaps a couple of 3' base cabinets on each side. I'm thinking of having the door open outward (against the cabinet) instead of inward. I haven't decided on base cabinets yet because this is also prime real estate for a refrigerator.

Regardless, a Murphy bed is my best idea for sleeping. I've found a queen size mechanism, which when it lets down, does so into the 19' part of the box. In comparison, 19' feels spacious while protruding a mere foot from the wall when stored. In effect, it's the best of both worlds because we maintain a comfortable area in which to maneuver within the workshop while not feeling cramped at night. Anyway, this seems like a smarter use of the available volume than a single purpose bedroom.

Of course, others will have different needs. For example folks building a truck to carry a race car may need to accommodate a crew. Similarly, folks traveling with a passel of children may need to sleep 12. However, Moby is being made to order for the two of us. Thus, sleeping in the 'workshop' is really no hardship whatsoever.

Two additional thoughts. First, I have a 6' sleeper cab, which I'm thinking of converting into an office. Second, since the truck is in essence a humongous air compressor, I figure routing an air line into and around the box means I can use compact air-powered tools, like a die grinder instead of a Dremel. This also means I can carry an impact wrench for the times I need to remove a flat.

Meanwhile, since I have an auxilliary axle, I believe I can take advantage of it. For example, I can lower it onto stacked 2x12 boards to, in effect, raise the drive wheels. This means it's a built in jack to facilitate changing same flat. Add a 5T bottle jack and I can do the deed to the steer tires also - without a service call. Moreover, I figure routing an air line isn't limited to inside the box but may also be routed around the box, which means I can carry an impact wrench for the times I need to remove a wheel.

By the way, did I mention my truck is equipped with a squat option, which lowers the rear axle as much as 6 inches? Thus, by thinking laterally, the auxiliary axle also gives me the means of leveling the truck because placing boards beneath just the low side makes it easy to level the cab side to side, which is less expensive than installing leveling jacks and probablty 90% as useful. Anyway, this is why I am loathe to remove the axle altogether and sell it off.

Finally, while I have yet to lay the plan out on paper, e.g. to determine exactly where a television fits, plus maybe a couple of windows, and of course, an entrance door I have begun by dealing with the biggies. E.g. where to sleep, poop, shower, and of course where to place my workbench as I build out the truck to suit my my intended purpose. E.g. attend model flying events with some semblance of comfort and style - a few times a year - without breaking the bank.

FYI - Not sure if you are worried about complying with any codes, but National Electrical Code (NEC) does not allow an electrical panel to be installed with a bathroom. The code sections would be 230-70(a) and 240-24(e) This is mainly because the panel would be to close in proximity to wet locations. (This applies even if you use a weather proof panel). any electrical outlets need to be GFCI protected if within 6' of a water source also.

Dave

Do those codes apply to a motorhome? Something to think about regardless, thanks for the heads up!

I can't vouch for other states, but out here in Washington, Rv's fall under the NFPA 1192 Standard for recreational vehicles. Section 4.4 Electrical requirements sends you to the NFPA 70 (National electrical code) chapter 551 Recreational vehicles for all electrical requirements. There is not a direct mention in that chapter for having to comply with the panel location requirements of 230 and 240, but the inspectors I deal with out here consider it a gray area and will not permit the panel to be in a bathroom. Even if you are not getting inspections and such, it is never a bad idea to comply with codes (especially electrical and life safety). Being as compliment as possible can help down the road if there is an accident or an insurance claim.

Once I finally get mine off of the drawing board and actually build, I will have it inspected by the local agency and get a placard to show that it was built to code and inspected should I ever decide to sell it. That is probably more hassle and work than most wish to take but my type A personality drives me to it...

Dave

In that case you may as well draw plans, get an engineer to certify them, and then pull a permit. They're funny about wanting everything done in the proper order, don't you know?

That is my plan lol... Every piece will be modeled in the computer, weight accounted for and a stress analysis run on the steel framework. I am the type that wants to know exactly how everything will go before I start. I do have the advantage of having all the software and engineering tools available to me, and I deal with the state agency that does the plan review on modular buildings and RV's daily. That combined with waiting for the last kid to be pushed out of the nest before i can dedicate funds to the project should give me lots of time to get the design right (hopefully) before I actually get to cut steel...

It's better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission. It's why I hesitate to grant veto power to a bureaucrat. Anyway, while I too am an engineer, some of the best engineers I've met didn't have a degree but relied instead on a modicum of common sense and experience, which is a tough combo to beat.

If anyone is curious, I'll save you the trouble of joining just to read the NFPA 1192 regs.
NFPA 1192: Standard on Recreational Vehicles

On page 1192-5 they basically state the regs apply to new construction recreational vehicles manufactured after Sept 2011. Since my truck is a 2001 and I'm not an RV manufacturer, and considering the regs aren't retroactive, I rather suspect they simply wouldn't apply (presuming they apply in my county/state in the first place). Anyway, for $47 you can buy the PDF, which you can print, or for $39 you may buy their printed copy, or you may simply read it online for free. Here's the table of contents.

Chapter 1 Administration
1.1 Scope
1.2 Purpose
1.3 Application
1.4 Retroactivity
1.5 Equivalency
1.6 Use of International System of Units (SI)

Chapter 2 Referenced Publications
2.1 General
2.2 NFPA Publications
2.3 Other Publications
2.4 References for Extracts in Mandatory Sections

Chapter 3 Definitions
3.1 General
3.2 NFPA Official Definitions
3.3 General Definitions
C
hapter 4 General Requirements
4.1 Differing Standards
4.2 U.S. Federal Regulations
4.3 Exterior Labels
4.4 Electrical Requirements

Chapter 5 Fuel Systems and Equipment
5.1 Quality of Design and Installation
5.2 Propane Systems
5.3 Propane Piping Systems
5.4 Fuel-Burning Appliances
5.5 Venting, Ventilation, and Combustion Air
5.6 Marking Appliances (Installation and Operation Features)
5.7 Circulating Air Systems for Heating (Other Than Automotive Type)
5.8 Air Conditioning (Other Than Automotive Type)
5.9 Consumer Information
5.10 Gasoline or Diesel Fuel Systems.
5.11 Propane Vehicle Propulsion Engine Installations

Chapter 6 Fire and Life Safety Provisions
6.1 Interior Finish and Textile or Film Materials
6.2 Recreational Vehicle Means of Escape
6.3 Fire Detection Equipment
6.4 Other Considerations
6.5 Automatic Generator Starting System (AGS) Requirements
6.6 Vehicular Requirements.
C
hapter 7 Plumbing Systems
7.1 Plumbing System
7.2 Plumbing Fixtures
7.3 Water Distribution Systems
7.4 Drainage Systems
7.5 Waste Holding Tanks
7.6 Vents and Venting
7.7 Plumbing System Tests

Annex A Explanatory Material
Annex B Propane Pipe Sizing
Annex C Product Listing Standards
Annex D Informational References
Index

Anyway, using these regs as guidelines as I make modifications over time may save me trouble down the road, which I think was your intent. It's obvious someone put a lot of thought into these so I thank you for sharing the information.

Unfortunately, this is exactly how government grows. Worse, it puts a bureaucrat in a position to interfere with your private property rights. I'm saddened these things aren't offered as best practice guidelines for citizens to use as they see fit. E.g. use them, don't use them, it's up to you but you're gonna get sued anyway, so why interject the bureaucrats?

We don't need more government regulations!

Cheers,

Yes it was my intent just to let you know what was out there and available. how much of it folks want to incorporate is up to them, besides it makes for some good reading just before bed..lol I have to agree 100% on the excess of the bureaucrats, I have well over 6 feet of various code books on my shelf, all with the intent to keep us all safe, and a whole lot of rule makers employed. Some of it makes a lot of sense and will help to build a safe product, but much of it is mission ridiculous. We have national codes that have been amended by each of the states and sometimes by the local cities... I deal with designing buildings for many of the western states, and Canada and just keeping track of the differences can almost be a full time job.

As far as year of construction, out here they go by the date the coach was built, not the year of the chassis. I still don't think as a home built unit you will run into any issues either way..

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress.

Dave

We face the same issues with airplanes. I'm not allowed to install a modern autopilot in my 1954 Bonanza. Instead, I have to install one designed in the 1950 or 60s because those are the units the airplanes were certified with back in the day.

Hence, I have an option of spending $15,000 for a vastly outdated design - complete with discrete components like resistors, diodes, and capacitors in parallel/series circuits along with heavy old clunker servo motors . . . versus 21st century microprocessor based designs, which are equipped with ultra lightweight brushless motors many times faster, stronger, and with better centering. Worse, the old units depend on spinning mechanical gyros instead of piezo crystals. It's almost like insisting you design using a vintage HP 15C scientific calculator versus a modern day workstation with Solidworks.

Anyway, a modern day autopilot weigh a fraction of what an antique autopilot weighs, consumes a very small fraction of the current, and offers many more features, along with a huge step forward in reliability . . . for about $2500. Yes, 1/6th the price!

Unfortunately, bureaucrats at the FAA (Feds Against Aviation) won't allow it without a horribly expensive certification process, which small manufacturers simply cannot afford. This, despite the fact these systems are installed every day in home-built airplanes, which have the same performance capabilities and share the same airspace - go figure. In fact, the most popular home-builder's system is designed bt the dsame fellow who designed the antique autopilot in my airplane and he refuses to ever certify a system. Says it's too much trouble. This means, of course, he cannot sell his system to about 3/4 of the available market, which goes to show there;'s a real price being paid every day by American small businesses due to overbearing government regulations.

eEven more sad, since the old style autopilot designs represent a fair fraction of the value of an old airplane, $15,000 against an airplane worth maybe$20,000, e.g. a Cessna 150 made in the 60s, folsk cannot reasonably afford to install onet because they can never hope to recoup the investment. As a direct consequence, pilots forsake the safety improvements of having an autopilot and do without, which si costing lives year in and year out. The stats bear this out in a category called CFIT - controlled flight into terrain, and loss of control due to disorientation, e.g. getting into clouds and losing situational awareness or just making a dumb mistake. Senseless as an autopliot often could have saved the aircraft and the lives. Heavy sigh.

We somehow have to get government out of our lives. I understand it's all been done with good intentions, but it's simply taken on a life of its own. It's destroying what it means to be a freedom loving American.

I also agree with following the standards (within reason) when homebuilding. Things like no electrical panel where the shower water can soak it just make sense whether the government makes a rule or not. Or having the propane tank in a compartment sealed from the interior as opposed to sitting on the floor connected by a hose (don't laugh, I've sen it)

Guidelines are OK with me. A prudent fellow will follow them.

However, I disagree completely with them being forced on folks. If I'm determined to go to Hell in a handbasket, it's my business and nobody else's. The problem, as I see it, arises when folks think they know better what's best for me when in reality it's none of their business.

The road to Hell is indeed paved with good intentions.

Back to things related to conversions, I've begun shelling out hard earned shekels for the bits required to make Moby into what I need. E.g. doors, shower stall, and some lumber. Been busy planning out what I will do. This is fun!

It's been a while since I've updated the group on Moby. Since my last report we have been working on converting the box into something better suited for a team support vehicle (for my model helicopter business). The work involved in converting it from a cargo carrier, thus far, has largely tilted toward elbow grease versus money.

This has involved sandblasting rusty things, sanding the wood deck, along with paint, and wall covering. These efforts are the foundation for what follows, e.g. the fixtures and displays. Fixtures being things like aluminum wall lockers (polishing aluminum is both laborious and dirty), as well as work tables.

Next up, I have to build a bulkhead (wall) to create a small a private area (for a shower and toilet). While this reduces the the 24' long box by 4', I have no choice because Lynn abhors the chemical toilets (Port-'o-Johns), which event organizers typically offer - in short, she's insisted.

I also have yet to wire the box for lighting and power (via a generator) as well as plumbing, communications, and entertainment. However, the reason I've left this for later is the first order of business has been to strive to figure out 'how' we want to use the space. Moreover, since the electrical will be exposed (within metal conduit), leaving it for later has no immediate negative repercussions. Ditto the plumbing.

All this has been eating into my spare time, but our flying season is cranking up (since few want to stand in the middle of field flying toy models when it's cold, windy, and wet) and I now find myself a bit behind on this project. However, the planning and execution have been both interesting and fun (if I discount the sore muscles).

Anyway, if you've been following the Moby build, consider yourself updated!

progress
 

Looks good! How long did it take to train your dog to hold the end of the work piece? I also see the hands of people polishing aluminum. Keep up the good work and please keep the pictures coming.

cripes if they do im screwed ;) my AC & DC panel breakers/fuses are IN the bath area...just a few inches off the floor !:rolleyes:

Most rv builders worth a dime build by the RVIA standards. I don't think the NFPA Electrical Code applies to motor vehicles.

Hmmm, here I kind of thought folks on this forum weren't rv builders worth a dime, but instead are just ordinary folks, asking questions of each other, e.g. self-help. Where can I find a copy of the RVIA standards? And is this free, or for association-members only, and priced that way?

I bought a Mac tool truck a couple years ago did a living/sleeping quarters in front and work/storage in back with a wall divider,after living with it for two seasons I decided it would work better if it was flipped.
You would be best off if you "mock up" your layout,I.E place beds work bench etc.where you think you want them,but build it as temp.then go live with the layout,go to your events where you'll use it,you'll find this would be better over there,and that here,and that could be bigger.You'll save a lot of time and money that way.

Great minds think alike!

I have a side door strapped to the forward starboard side about where I 'think' I want it. Similarly, I have a work table in its approximate location, plus I have used a tarp, which is held in place with bungees to simulate the wall. All this to try and get a 'feel' for the setup.

I am not keen on permanence as a matter of course exactly because I don't know how I want to use the space yet and thus, I am thinking of fabbing the wall unit with thin wall steel tubing secured in place using E-track accessories. I have found one in particular, which I think will be perfect because it features a heavy duty ring. If I cut the ring off, the hole will be well suited for a bolt to attach to the tubing structure. This results in a wall assembly, which may be reposition, or removed altogether in minutes with a minimum of tools.

Similarly, I am thinking of fabbing a steel tubing framework for the shower such that it too can be removed/relocated with minimal effort. Why? Mostly because I've little idea of the real world to which i will put this vehicle to work and this grants me a lot of flexibility should needs change.

Finally, I don't know how large your Mac Tools truck is but I have a step van, which in a former life was a Snap-On tools van. I bought her from the son of the original owner with just 54,000 pretty hard miles (these things are heavily loaded and driven locally their whole working ives). Re-christened Baby because of how she looks when parked near Moby, she my alternative to a pickup truck (many of my friends spend upwards of $40k on pickups, which I think is foolish).

Anyway, just about anything imaginable will fit - once we went into the dump with tear out from the remodel of my home at 12,800 pounds and came out at 6400 pounds, yes, her own weight in cargo! While not my daily driver, she gets a lot of use and is in tip top condition (excepting paint). Baby's most recent update was exchanging the stock 350 Turbo Hydramatic 3-speed automatic transmission for a 700R4 overdrive tranny, which has made a huge difference in gas mileage (from 8.3 to 9.8 mpg average) and more importantly, by reducing highway speed RPMs a lot, which means driving her is a much more pleasant experience on the odd occassion I run downtown or somewhere via a freeway because she's not screaming her heart out.

In closing, thanks for sharing your thoughts.

It's been a while since I updated what's going on with Moby. Anyway, the plan is coming together nicely. if you don't recall, basically I'm building my truck principally as a mobile workshop (for attending model airplane fun flies). These are generally weekend events though there are one or two, which last the better part of a week.

As such, my truck really won't be very much like a high-dollar motor home, e.g. with kitchen and all the accoutrements of home. While I do plan for a shower stall (a smallish 34" wide unit) and a toilet, which will be something like a loveableloo (pretty much a 5-gallon bucket with garbage bag liner, a toilet seat, and some cat litter), once I section off 3' from the 23' box, the remaining 20', give or take, will be devoted to workshop. E.g. pretty spartan accomodations because it'll have worktables, office chairs, etc. plus model airplanes and helicopters. As such, it will be where I and a a few friends can work on models, watch videos, drink beer, shoot the bull, etc. I think of it as a mobile man cave.

As far as sleeping accomodations go, either we'll inflate an air mattress and toss it on the floor in the evenings, or use the cab, which has a sleeper with double bunks. We're undecided which but are, instead, playing this by ear.

Anyway, a major issue for me has been cooling and of course, electric power because few, if any model events have hookups. Moreover, complaints will be few, if any, regarding noise due to running a generator all day and night because everyone else will be doing the same.

My initial plan (to save money) was to use my existing Honda 6500ES. This is a very quite, water-cooled 2-cylinder gerator capable of delivering 50A. E.g. make a mount for the frame upon which to install it, wire it up and presto, electricity for the duration. The issue with this, principally, being the amount of gasoline consumed. It takes a fair bit, on the order of 12-15 gallons per day . . . I know because Hurricane Charley knocked power out for 10 days back in 2004. That's a lot of gasoline to be carrying with us, or fetching to feed it. Anyway, I secured an 80-gallon aluminum tank, just like the pair for the truck figuring to top it off when I got where I was going and once I returned home, to drain what was left into vehicles since gas goes bad.

However, my next idea was a propane-conversion for the generator. This was a nice in principle because propane doesn't go bad with the passage of time and a conversion kit for the Honda is readily available. The downside is the stupidly expensive costs for a large propane tank.

Then I came across one of these and bought it: https://www.rigmasterpower.com/downlo...ator-Model.pdf

This is a self-contained APU which consists of 20k btu of cooling, 13.5 btu of heating, plus a 6KW generator - all powered by a 2-cylinder Perkins diesel, which best of all, plumbs right into the 160 gallon diesel supply onboard the truck. This means I can remain in situ for quite an extended period of time before my fuel supply reaches critical level, e.g. 20 gallons, and I don't have to fetch fuel in the interim - yeehaw!

Anyway, before getting this APU unit, I was going to install a 12k btu mini-split heat pump for environmental needs. Now I think the APU's A/C and heater will be plenty good enough even though it's originally designed to heat and cool dog house. I'm going to try and install it next week so I'll have answers pretty soon but even if they're exagerating by a factor of 2X, I probably still get 10k btu of cooling from it and that should work well enough.

Add to it, I get 6KW of electricity and I don't anticipate needing anything like that because it will no longer be needing to power an electric heat pump unit. Especially since all I will have to run is a smallish dorm-room size refrigerator, DVD player, and what not. In fact, another nice feature is it's designed to charge batteries! Anyway, mine is the MTS-T4-6, which is rated at 278 cfm and the 12k btu mini-splits I've looked at are rated at 175 cfm so I suspect I'll be really getting the whole 20k btu of cooling plus 6KW of power. Meanwhile, they claim 0.3 gph and my Honda is more like 0.5-0.6 gph but it's a diesel so maybe that's prety close to reality as well - we'll see - but that's a fair bit less than 10 gallons per day so running it 24/7 amounts to half my supply, which means I can really be 50 miles out in the boonies and still have enough diesel onboart after a week to make it back to a station.

Finally, regarding potable water, I figure to tote 90-gallons. And I won't have any black water, just gray water from the shower. Since I'll now have a spare 80-gallon aluminum fuel tank I figure on using this for the gray-water holding tank and simply dump it in the yard once I return (no chemicals other than soap from showering and no toilet paper or feces requiring an elaborate valve and piping necessary).

What am i missing?

sounds like you are working a good plan. I looked into the APU myself years ago, but by time they were professionally installed they were very expensive. The popularity of them has brought down the price. I think that is a good option.

It's that time again - here's an update:

The APU is mostly installed. Mostly because what was delivered was a jig saw puzzle of parts. Here's the background. I'd been checking on Craig's List for a diesel generator because I was leery of toting a lot of gasoline for the Honda. I'd seen one a few months back but was too slow because someone wanted it and got it quickly. Diesel gensets don't come up often.

A couple weeks ago I did my now routine search and up pops this things called an APU. I researched what it was and got excited because it handily beat plan A, the Honda plus some kind of mini-split or one of those roll around room AC units because it's a genset and an automotive type AC hybrid device. Best of all, it consumes diesel fuel instead of gasoline.

Since the device is clear across town, we make a verbal deal over the phone. Basically I buy it for a set price and he'll install it for another set price. After several false starts during which I dreaded a call saying someone else had shown up with money the seller arrives, not with a ready to bolt up to the frame APU but a bunch of bits and pieces plus some 5 gallon buckets with bolts and what not. Like I said above, a jig saw puzzle.

Against my better judgement, I agree to fork over the agreed upon dough so he can carry it to the seller (he's the intermediary and the mechanic who takes care of the seller's truck). This, despite my misgivings, e.g. what if this pile of junk doesn't work once it's put together? Or what if the guy takes the money and i never hear back from him come installation time and I have to stop everything I'm doing to figure how to put it together myself? Neither was an attractive possibility but I really wanted this thing so I swallow hard and give him the dough (honest to God, partly based on his honest looking face and good vibes). Along with his promise to return in a few hours, I start pressure washing the various bits to remove accumulated grime and with time on my hands (he's not back in an hour and a half as promised) painting same with black Rustoleum (everything looks better after a spit shine and some paint, right? It did too, but it was still nothing but a pile of parts.

However, in the meantime, I'd noticed Richard had unloaded and left behind his tools. A quick perusal convinced me there was as much in tools as what he was going to charge me in labor, which made me feel quite a bit better about prospects of him coming back. Anyway, several hours later he did and he commenced assembly (and very happy everything was spic and span and freshly painted, if I say so myself). At dark he said, "I'm done for the day, I'll be back tomorrow morning around 9". But best of all, he didn't siddle up and ask for a draw against the agreed upon labor total. Not that I am unlwilling in principal, but there wasn't much to show for his labors because all told he'd only gotten in a couple hours before darkness fell (and in Central Florida, around this time is dangerous to be out because humongous mosquitos venture out for the foolhardy intent on draggin' you you back to the nest intent on consuming you at their leisure).

We sit on our hands over the weekend - he said he hadn't seen his kids all week (divorced) and would it b OK to pick back up on Monday. However, come 9 AM Monday, no Richard. And worse, as far as I am concerned (yes, I am a control freak), no phone call advising me he'd be late, or how there was otherwise some change in schedule. By noon, and feeling rather aggravated, I contact Rigmaster and ask for manuals and exploded view diagrams. Basically, anything and everything they might be willing to share with someone in my predicament , e,g, engaged in a quest to complete assembly and installation.

Let me tell you, the Tech Support folks at Rigmaster are really, really, really nice - Brian specifically - gets two thumbs up because he covered me up with information and documentation. This despite my not having spent a dime with them! Meanwhile, late-ish in the afternoon, Richard shows up - something about having to do a tranny job down in Lakeland for a truck broken down, which was headed to Sarasota, taking priority and he'd not gotten to bed until 5:30 AM and it was all he could do to drag his carcass out of said bed at 1PM and call me. Fair enough in my view (I'm just glad he's back). Anyway, I later that afternoon gently observe how it would be nice if he'd call and keep me in the loop - not that I'm rpssing, just that I have things to do also. (I'm funny that way).

Anyway, dark again he quits and promises to be back in the AM. That was yesterday and it doesn't happen (sensing a pattern here?). This time, I don't hear from him until early afternoon - something about his wife being sick so he took her to her Mom's. Strangely enough, I believe him. Regardless, he sets to it again. Did I mention he really knows how the jig saw puzzle goes together? Not only that but in the meatime he's giving me a lesson on what it can do.

Anyway, the raison d'tre of these devices is to heat and cool the doghouse of a tractor trailer so the engine doesn't accumulate idle time and thereby burn 3X more fuel than the APU does - while also providing 60A DC and AC as well. I, however, want to heat and cool the workshop (the box) instead.

However, beond this, it seems the conmputer also monitors the battery bank on the truck (four 31-size 750CCA batteries in a parallel arrangement, e.g. a massive 12V battery). Upshot of it is this, if the voltage is too low it'll start the Perkins engine and charge the battery and subsequently shut the engine off once it reaches a set voltage (if I set it up that way via menus, which seems reasonable upon inspection - more as it develops).

Anyway, along the way are a series of delays. To begin, Richard (very reasonably) had early on observed he didn't really care if he assembled the unit back together using existing fuel lines and heater hoses or brand new ones if I felt like buying same. This seemed prudent and thus, I set upon the errand of securing same. Another errand saw me sourcing additional nuts and bolts, which were missing or mismatched (again, I'm funny this way and insist on order call it adult ADD). Again, as the beneficiary of a reliable installation, securing these presented no hu-hu on my end, for being the pitch bitch, or parts chaser.

Meqnwhile, however, instead of installing the evaporator/fan/heat exchanger (think of exactly what you have beneath the dash of your car, a valve to control hot water diverted from cooling the engine to a heat exchanger, an evaporator and fan to conduct now cold air through the fins and into the air space, the truck box in this case instead of the cabin of a car) it would be about 20' away as the hose and wires run - instead of just a couple feet - as originally designed.

This meant new high and low pressure hoses, which are 20' long. Two 20' runs of 5/8" heater hose, plus two 20' runs of 18/8 wire. With respect to the latter, try finding that on short notice! Anyway, being blessed by living in a large-ish metropolitan area, what I did find was 18/16 (16 pieces of 18ga within one jacket instead of 8 pieces in a jacket X2), so I just purchased one 20' run of this instead. As for the AC hoses, a well regarded local shop did these for me today as well. (no, Richard didn't come to work today because a) getting all done up would take time and b) he was doing some other job.

Anyway, he says he'll be here in the AM - we'll see but I expect some time during the day if not in th AM. However, the generator is basically assembled and we're now just down to connecting the AC lines, drawing down a vacuum and putting 134a in the system, plus soldering connectors to the new wire - piece of cake because I once required my 1973 240Z over the span of about two weeks using just the factory manuals and the old connectors (a fire once upon a time). Anyway, when I applied the battery, it started right up, everything worked, and I didn't release any magic smoke in the process so push come to shove, I can finish this job too were something to happen with Richard (BTW, he's now 1/2 way into me against the set labor bill, but he's on the downhill side of the job so I am certain he'll come to finish).

Meanwhile, I learn from Rigmaster they know the seller (I'd mentioned his name on the off chance they would and it paid off with data). Seems the seller has been a good owner, e.g. the type to apply updates over the years plus he's been diligent vice the care and feeding of the device. I don't know if this bodes well, or not, and only time will tell but I am encouraged. And, all along Richard has been pointing to things he's done over the years, e.g. new fuel control assembly and injectors last year, engine rebuild two years ago - new rings, valve job with new guides, plus new water pump, updated 60A alternator, etc.

Anyway, tomorrow we try to complete the job but if it extends into another day I won't be surprised. Also, because some of these delays have to do with pecularities of the installation, a bonus for Richard (though he doesn't know it yet). Also, turns out the unit is an older model, so while it still makes 20K BTU, the 6KW isn't really 6KW, it's less. I don't really care because the primary purpose of the genset was to run the AC. Since this is handled in another fashion, this leave ample capacity to run a small fridge, lights, and assorted tools like a Dremel, or haor dryer, or microwave. Fortunately, it does produce the 60A DC of the new ones because this has been updated.

Finally, I have also ordered the 135g tank, set the shower stall into the back of the truck and am about to purchase the water pump for the system. I have decide to use PEX for the plumbing. I became familiar with this stuff when I replumb my house a few years ago. I carefully watched them do the job and subsequently purchased the tool to crip the fittings because I added a hot tub to the joint. The stuff is easy enough to work with plus you don't need to sleep at a Holiday Inn Express to learn to do it. That, plus it's flexible and should be proof againsts road borne vibrations versus rigid pipe like CPVC.

More as it develops - photos below.