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Old 05-31-2016, 11:02 AM   #21
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With the trailer I'll be 75 ft long. I wouldn't want a longer truck. This thing has the turning radius of the Titanic. Rides great though with the long wheel base.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:25 PM   #22
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imo ours tows a bit better w/ a loaded trailer....

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'04 Haulmark (M42386) 42', 2 slide, 10kw - Pictures
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:47 PM   #23
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Is that trailer full beavers.....wonder how many?
[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samcrimm View Post
Is that trailer full beavers.....wonder how many?
for the good of my marriage & my future longevity....i will remain COMPLETELY silent.
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'04 Haulmark (M42386) 42', 2 slide, 10kw - Pictures
'04 F350 CrewCab Longbed 4x4, 50g aux tank & gear vendors dbl over
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
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for the good of my marriage & my future longevity....i will remain COMPLETELY silent.

Understood....... lol
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:28 PM   #26
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Understood....... lol
but they are the elusive furless / bald variety
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:55 AM   #27
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Default Captains log stardate 06july2016

I finally got this thing drivable again and took it to my local welding shop for some stainless welding.
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The "bunk" is now connected to the stainless radius panels on the front of the box. The bunk area is now water tight.
Now comes the fun parts. We ripped out all of the old oak flooring, and replaced the I beams that were over the rear tires. They were rusted beyond belief from the road spray. The current plan is 3/4 pt plywood with 3/8 hardee board and porcelain tile. I ordered some mobile home under lament to go between the plywood and the I beams. That should keep the water out nicely.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:26 AM   #28
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Looking good!! That's going to be nice unit when you are done!
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:24 PM   #29
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Well it's been awhile since my last update, so here goes.
I treated the entire box with ospho rust reverse and then with 3 coats of truck bed liner. We then laid down a layer of woven plastic (the stuff they use under mobile homes).
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On that we screwed down 3/4 pressure treated plywood.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:40 PM   #30
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Once we got the main floor down It was time for the slide floor. After laminating a 4x12 ft sheet of 1 inch plywood, I covered it with the same black plastic stretched and glued in place. I then screwed the floor into the 1x2 box tubing sides.
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Next we used 3m vhb tape to attache the side of the slide.
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Sorry about the dar pics. It was a pretty late finish.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:58 PM   #31
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It was this point that my daughter dropped a pot on out porcelain tile at home and broke it. This got me wondering if my flooring plan would have to change.
I decided to scrap the porcelain tile I had picked out and go with a grout able vinyl tile.
Well this now meant that I needed to add another inch (backer board+tile+thinset) to my plywood. So break out the crew gun and add the extra plywood. At 1.75 inches of plywood this floor is REALLY sturdy.
Side bonus is that the slide now sits level on the floor and I can finally put the molding and roof on it..
1 piece aluminum roof, Same stuff I used on the main roof. vhb taped on and anchored by the face trim on the outside.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:04 PM   #32
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Now that this thing is "dried in" We can focus on the inside. !st order of business was to add a wood firing strip to every wall stud. Next we built both walls (awaiting pocket doors).
This coach is going to have a 8ft x 9.5ft bedroom with a 8ft x 4.5ft walk through bath.
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At this point we are on a bit of a work/holiday/where did all of our money go? hold.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:47 PM   #33
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what a nice (insulated) build! you should be warm or cool....even in a cold (or is it warm) climate!
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:20 PM   #34
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LOL. the plan is to use closed cell spray foam. at 2" that should giver us an r value of around 14. The roof is def getting regular fiberglass. we will have 3 inches at the edge and 5 inches at the peak, which is plenty of room for a good r value batt insulation.
Eventually I will remove the rear doors and build an exterior wall at the back. But it will be when we are done moving large stuff in and out.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:33 PM   #35
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as someone that lives in texas (and frequents virginia)....insulation is GOOD...its light and it saves fuel (generator & propane)!
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:56 PM   #36
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Looks like you bought this truck from a good friend of mine....charlie. Great truck. Perfect for this conversion. I was looking at it when you were working out your deal.
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:14 AM   #37
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Yes I bought it from charlie in Arkansas. The box required MAJOR amounts of work, but mechanically it's a GREAT starting point. I would def do it all over again.
Charlie was great to work with through the whole process.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:42 AM   #38
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great combo...n14 and super 10 with such a long box. great platform to start with. we have an 01 volvo with 60 series and a 10 spd autoshift. great mpg and we never run out of hp or torque. yours is a very time consuming and tedious project. well worth the effort in the end. one question...is there a reason you dont want closed cell spray foam in the ceiling? it sure would ad rigidity to that .060 aluminum roof. just curious.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:52 AM   #39
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All of the wiring is run in the ceiling.going spray foam would stiffen it up at the expense of service ability. I added about 10 extra roof bows when I rebuilt the box, so the roof is plenty stiff. There is no need to walk on the roof since there is nothing mounted up there.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:50 PM   #40
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i see. i used it on a box truck conversion and was very pleased. i like the idea that even if you get a leak in your roof it is stopped by the closed cell when it is applied directly to the roofing material. i look forward to watching the progress on your conversion.
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