12v vs. 110v lighting. While it sounds easy to just start the apu, if you are running all 12v lighting it works the same all the time. Shore power/no shore power, apu running/not running. You'll be amazed how often you end up just needing to look for a tool or something by the side of the road or a rest area, or just walk through the coach, and it is sure nice that the light always just comes on when you hit the switch and not have to start anything. When I got our race/living quarters trailer, I didn't think I'd like the all 12v lighting vs. the 110v in the old trailer, but I quickly figured out it is much more convenient.
12v in general. Definitely needed in a situation where you are using rv equipment. As other posters mentioned the demand pump will need 12v. Also required for an RV type refrigerator, which is well worth the investment. Spent almost a grand on ours, and haven't regretted a penny of it. When we are on shore power or a generator at an event it runs on 110v, as soon as we unplug it automatically switches over to propane and keeps the beer cold and ice cream frozen when we are without power or rolling down the road. So if you want your burgers and beer cold when you get there, you'd need to run your apu constantly while driving to keep that 110v only fridge running. And those cheap apartment units aren't big on good insulation, they will warm up way quicker than you think if the power is off for a short time. If you can afford the rv unit now, you will be happy in the long run. It will pay off in saved fuel, ice, and lost food, and certainly convenience. We keep ours stocked with food/beverage all the time just like the fridge in the house and it is always cold and ready to go when we leave and when we arrive at the events on the weekends.
converter/charger. I upgraded to an intelli power unit after my old one failed, that is a good unit and you will like it in your truck. Again, convenience. You can certainly use the battery bank in the truck for your coach battery as well. Normally you wouldn't want to do that or else you eventually will run down the batteries too far and find out the truck won't start, but your apu is a fail safe for that situation in your case. The converter/charger in your case will basically replace the apu for keeping the battery bank charged while plugged into shore power or sitting in your driveway. My fridge for example will run the batteries down if it is not plugged in to power for several days. It is just way cheaper to use the inverter charger for that instead of letting the apu do it in your case. And particularly you already have a good quality unit, just go ahead and install it. Your unit won't ever overcharge the batteries and also have a maintenance mode that automatically runs from time to time.
Shore power. I wouldn't even consider wiring for 220v for shore power. The only place you are going to find to plug that in is at your own shop. A 50 amp service is far overkill for what you are doing anyway, just use a standard 30A rv plug that is available at any campground, and can be dropped down to a standard 20A plug with a cheap adapter if needed. Not all campgrounds have 50A service, and many that do charge extra for a 50A site. Don't overthink it, just use the common 30A stuff. You can pick up a 50' 30A RV extension cord online for about $75, why go to the trouble of making up your own setup and then having something non-standard that you can't plug in everywhere? I carry 100' or 30A cord which is more than enough for our needs with one a/c unit, and an extra 200' of 20A cord in case we are setup really far from a pole at an event and don't need the a/c.
We also thought we'd never be in a campground as we are normally at a fairgrounds or racetrack for our events, but we found that we do stay in a campground from time to time between events, or stay over when we are in a place where there some sightseeing to be done when we have a little extra time before/after an event.
good luck!
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