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Old 03-30-2003, 07:41 PM   #5
OLDphoneman
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: https://community.webshots.com/photo/93826746/94091929JnrVfF
Posts: 68
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Hi Joe --

Like I said -- I ment no offense -- I'm not real good at putting thought to words.

Let me start again -- now that you've given me more information -- along with the one picture.

As I look at the picture -- you've cutoff the base plate of the hitch -- as it was shipped from Jerry Clark. That's what prompted my remark about engineering. I can only "assume" your intentions are to weld then to your new steel plate. Hope your welder is certified.

You'r frame is "Beaver Tailed". This does not lend itself well for a bed. there is simply no frame material behind the hitch to support the rear of the bed. I'd perferred to have seen the frame "square Cut" like a truck -- much easier to support the bed.

You'r bed is going to be 5" above the frame? This is unusual -- I'm wondering what type of material you're going to use between the frame and bed? Usually a thin strip of hardwood is used.

As far as towing goes ...... You can tow nose up/down with no problem -- so long as you keep in mind .. If you'r up in the front -- You're down in the rear. You'll drag the tail sooner -- compared to level towing.

You're right on the pin box as being adjustable. I adjusted mine all the way up and gained an additional 2".

I to like Jim's Tractor. He was kind enough to send me his build pictures .. Doonan's did a great job on the bed.

I to thought about doing the same thing -- having a slider air hitch. But for me -- I dropped the idea. Although it would work. My reason -- I've slid hitches and sliding tandems for over 33 years -- fixed works for me.

Keep posting pictures Joe -- this is how we all learn ......

OLDphoneman
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