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Old 12-07-2005, 10:20 AM   #1
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since I picked up my conversion one thing that changed big time is how the engine starts
it used to be that you touched it and it was running in any weather now 9 out of 10 times it requires 3 or more sets of cranking @ 25-30 seconds each to fire 1 out of 10 you touch it and its running !(even when warm)
I replaced filters, checked for air leaks and tightened fuel lines and tried a known to be good cam position sensor ! no help at all
dda suspects welding on the frame with out disconnecting the batteries to have hurt the computer ? anyone experience this situation
thanks t
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Old 12-07-2005, 06:03 PM   #2
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How many miles on the engine? We had one doing a similar thing and hooked it to the laptop and found a couple of faults that were inactive and reset them and replaced the sensors and it was fine. Also had one that was increasingly hard to start and ended up replacing the main fuel pump. Start with the fault codes. It is possible that the ECM is faulty but hard to tell.
Wick
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:13 PM   #3
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....we have welded on the frame and body on trucks and didn't disconnect the batteries(4) and haven't had any problems with engine starting.....using AC and DC current.....I think it is just one of those "safety issues".....we have not used high freq. or plasma mainly because they were not needed at the time.....MIG and TIG have been used some on some tube bu tnot a lot.....geofkaye
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Old 12-08-2005, 05:44 AM   #4
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wick , where is the fuel pump and is it electric?
also where do I find a trouble code list ?
196kmi thanks T
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Old 12-08-2005, 08:17 AM   #5
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Wick i found the fuel pump!
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Old 12-09-2005, 08:03 AM   #6
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Does your dash panel have a meesage panel? where you can see various messages. If not you have to go to a dealer and have them hook the computer to it to read them. Call several dealers and get priced for this before going to one. I have had them charge anywhere from $50.00 (Lexington, KY) to $450.00 (Richmond, VA).
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Old 12-09-2005, 09:34 AM   #7
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If I turn the key counterclockwise then the check engine light will flash in a t code fashion but I need the list to look up the #s?
I also found that the only check valve for the whole fuel system is in the return from the back of the head ? this could be the problem
DDA said there was a power surge from welding with the batts hooked up !
I am not buying it yet although it is very possible , the conversion people say they had the batts unhooked !
And I do believe them to be good people and not liars !
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Old 12-11-2005, 10:53 AM   #8
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Update ,> the fuel check valve in the return T is intermitent & fails 7 out of 10 times on the bench! This can cause the problem !
I also replaced the fuel pump (the drive coupler was broken and in many pieces ) the fuel pressure was under spec a little !
thanks for the input T
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Old 12-11-2005, 08:26 PM   #9
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...replace the fuel pump only after examining the pick up hose- strainer- foot for goop and rust....good time to check out the tanks for crap and crud also inspect the hoses....geofkaye
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:53 AM   #10
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I skipped all that stuff cause we just had the tanks out 4 months ago (I had to shorten them for the conversion) and at that time we went trough everything up to the pump !
I didnt do the return lines though and I didnt know about the check valve either! thanks T
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