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Old 01-11-2012, 08:23 PM   #1
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Default Quite Possibly the easiest way to remove lug nuts

On the never ending quest to finish my truck I ran into a problem. I could not remove the inner lug nuts (bud wheels). I tried a breaker bar, a 820 ft/lb impact wrench, a six foot cheater bar and still no luck. I have heard that it may take a 1" impact to pull the lugs. I was about to buy one when I came across a torque mulitplier by Snap on. It is a GA190 capable of 2000 ft/lbs. It multiplies what ever you put in time 4 with a gear reduction system. I am amazed at how easy they came off. No air or electricity required! Figured I would share my amazement.

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Old 01-13-2012, 09:30 AM   #2
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How do you support that big arm that sticks out the side of the multiplier? I bought one but haven't had to use it yet but I stuck it on and was wondering about that. Looks like I might need a helper to hold that arm while I turn the socket? Sounds like you got a nice one from Snapon. Mine is a cheap one from Northern.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:33 AM   #3
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Wow, I just looked at the one you got on Snapon's web site. Very nice. They call it the "reation bar" what I'm wondering how you support.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:51 AM   #4
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the reaction bar actually rests on the ground. It is long enough to reach the ground from almost all the lugs. The reaction bar is removeable, so I guess that I could put a longer one in it. I had to spin the wheel to catch the top two. I will never travel without this tool. I can remove a wheel in under five minutes with it.
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:37 PM   #5
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WOW! Stack up to three! Reminds me of multiple Allison P-51 Mustang engines powering a pulling tractor! At what point does the stud fail and break off? At little pricey ... just under $700.

"Use singly or stack up to three X4s. Stacking multiplies, not adds, torque ratios—resulting torque can be considerable. Only the torque ratio changes; total capacity is equal to and does not exceed the capacity of the largest wrench in the stack."

"resulting torque can be considerable" is probably an understatement!

GA190, Torque Multiplier, X4, Geared Head, Bar Reaction, 2000 ft. lb. Output

Does it come with a handle? The drawing appears to be only the head. How long is the handle? Hollow or solid.

If you can afford it, another thing you shouldn't leave home without!
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:49 PM   #6
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YIKES ! $688 !

there are PLENTY of cheaper multipliers available (many under 200 bucks) -
some versions use the "neighboring" lug nut or stud as its brace point - im not a fan of harbor freight <cheap china crap> - but they have a solution for about 25 bucks.

https://www.google.com/search?q=torq...ug+nut+remover
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:08 PM   #7
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It comes with a 30" solid hardened handle. Being that it is useful for much more than just lug nuts, I figure it was worth it. Time will tell, I looked at lots of them on eBay. I just don't want to be stuck somewhere unable to take a tire off because the tool broke. Plus it is shinny!
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:16 AM   #8
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I keep a couple of business cards in my cab. One for Pomp's Tire Service, and the other for Kenworth roadside assistance. I wouldn't be able to carry a spare for my truck, no place to put it. But I do want to be able to take my wheels off in my shop, that's why I got the torque multiplier.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:48 AM   #9
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A torque multiplier will be more likely to break studs than an impact. The jarring action from the impact will go a long way toward breaking the bolt loose without snapping them off. I restore antique farm equipment (very rusted/stuck). I have found that the rattling of an impact will loosen stuck bolts that brute force would have broken. Before you give up on the impact wrench make sure that it is working at its best. Give it a shot of air tool oil not wd-40 or some other stuff. Oil helps to free up a slow air tool. Many impacts have adjustments to regulate the speed. Make sure it is adjusted for MAX power. Make sure that you have adequate air supply. It takes air pressure AND volume to operate an impact wrench. Many people try to run an impact using a small air hose thus starving the tool for volume. If it has a 3/4" inlet then you need a 3/4" hose and fittinngs all of the way back to the tank.
If the nut or stud still will not loosen then I have another trick. Wack it with a BFH! You can strike the nut on the flats a few times and a lot of times it will come loose when you put the impact back on it. I like to hit the studs on the end a few times. They are hard to reach with a hammer so use a piece of steel bar stock placed against the end of the stud. I have gotten lots of stuck fasteners with a few good licks with a hammer.
To help prevent trouble a second time pay attention to how tight you put the lug nuts on. Tire shops should use a torque wrench. You do not need to tighten the lugs to your limit or the tool's limit. Lots of lugs are simply put on to tight causing lots of trouble. Don't let just any monkey work on your rig.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:57 AM   #10
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ok ive got a little problem w/ this - ADDING air tool oil increase the seal pressures and can PREMATURELY wear the gun, if youre not periodically servicing the air tool ADDING oil to it <to increase pressure/torque> is NOT a good practice.

youd be better to SOAK the studs w/ PB Blaster (or coat the threads lightly w/ anti-seize).

Hammering on the NUT or Stud can MUSHROOM the threads.

I think the point here is that being able to perform a repair on the road (even if you break a stud) is better than being stranded. For all the air tools i have, NONE would work or have enough AIR, on the road, even if i used the truck air supply.
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