Portal
 

When I bought the rig, there was not passageway between the cab/sleeper and the RV box. I knew it would be one of the first projects...kids bopping back and forth during trips, utilizing the RV ac when stopped and just general access.

After searching for a prefab product...I decided to take it on from scratch.
Found the centerline of the rig, drilled a pilot hole thru to the RV box. Due to the bathroom position, the portal is set slightly offset to the passenger side.

Notice the phone on the wall and another on the dash, that was the previous communication system between cab and Lounge...state of the art for 1984...

I had 18 ga stainless steel brake metal pieces fabricated and ordered "extra wide accordion gasket" to bridge between the two parts

The RV box wall is 2" thick and the cab wall is 1-1/4" The upturn "hemmed" leg is the lip for the gasket. The gasket is designed to go between a pickup window and camper shell, compressed, 2" fully expanded 7". I set up my gap at 3".

The metal roughed in:

bolted in place, next I will install the end dams to make the corners (pre-drilled for ease of installation.)

Temporary cardboard exterior sheathing shows in the pictures. Notice the gap between the cab and RV box is 1" wider at the top than the bottom (I aired up the system and with full bags, the gap remained constant.) The gasket will accommodate the variation (more cost effective than having a flared piece of trim manufactured) and allow the movement between the cab and RV box.

temped in the accordion gasket...makes great square corners.

Next, install the corner/end dams, then an exterior "rain cap"on the RV box to screen and hold insulation..the Texas summer could really warm up that stainless threshold.

very nice, I like that you put a lot of thought into your design, nicely done indeed.
Craftsmenship is a talent I aspire to but sometimes fall short.
-blizz

Looks very nice. That will improve the truck greatly.

Are you, or did you, putting anything on the bare metal edge of the cutout? I'm guessing you have treated it with something. But just in case you didn't, you should. I had a conversion van that the conversion company, Waldoch, cut the big bay windows in and didn't do anything to the metal edge. Rusted out pretty fast along the bottom edge. I'll never buy another Waldoch van, nor would I recommend them to anybody. My present conversion van, built by Explorer, used the factory long windows. What a great idea. No metal cutting and everything is designed to not rust out.

fortunately, the cab and the RV box are both aluminum. The stainless steel trim sets 1/2" off the cut edge of the aluminum skins to help avoid friction. I chose stainless trim because it is less reactive with the aluminum and will stand up to the traffic in and out of the sleeper.

My corrosion issues are on the under floor boxes...they are the only steel skins on the truck.

interior finished...end dams riveted and caulked into corners, accordion gasket installed. Still have outer skin and insulation to install

I noticed you put the accordion seal on from the inside rather than an outside flange, did you consider both alternatives?
-Have you used any type of adhesive to retain it?
-Have you had any issues with it coming loose?
-How did you join the ends?
Thanks for sharing, great pics!

Another question; did you set the two openings to be even with the air bags down and deflated or with it aired up?

I installed the gasket from the inside for access. It has to be removed when we lift the cab for service. No glue since we have to remove it periodically. The flange on the stainless rails is hemmed to provide a snug fit.

It has been on and off a dozen times in the past year without any issues or leaks. The stainless rail serves double duty since it will not react with the aluminum body and provides enough strength to handle the traffic thru the portal.

I left around a 2" space between the rails I fabricated to allow for cab / rv box movement. I only have airbags in the rear, so it does not matter if I am aired up or down as there is enough flex/slack in the gasket to allow for movement.

I did caulk the corners...the alternate is to have someone weld the stainless after it was installed.

Looks good, thanks!

6 years later and I am happy to report the system has worked very well. Only repair was to replace a torn boot last year.

Cool, very glad it's been working well for you.

Dear 40's rock,

We looked at a similar 'extra-wide accordion seal' at Pacific Rubber in Eugene, Oregon. Their asking price == US$12 per linear. Is this in your ballpark?

(For foreigners, that works out to almost nearly the metricalifications conversion of approximately 99 Europes per cubic metre of currency longwise.) (Or so I'm told.) (Everyplace except France. Because butter.)

This is my source for the accordion gasket:


https://www.accordionboot.com/