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Old 01-12-2009, 03:50 PM   #1
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Hi, new here, although I've been checking in every day for almost a year, I thought I'd attach a link to the Escapees MDT forum where I posted my project.

I did it, I made my move and cut my GMC 6500 frame into 4 peices on Sunday, this will be an RV someday.

I would appreciate any feedback or ideas.
thanks for letting me share.

Link;
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index...howtopic=73051&st=20

-blizz
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:53 PM   #2
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Nice work blizzard! No turning back now :-) What year is your truck?
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #3
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Nice work. Looks good. when do get your extensions?
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:11 PM   #4
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2001 GMC 6500 100K miles, 3126 Cat 210hp 605 tq, fuller 6sp manual w/ OD 3.07 rear gears with 19.5 low pro tires 245/70R19.5
The truck has air ride rear, hyd. rear disc brakes and air ride seats. AC and Cruise is nice too!

My steel "inner plates" are to be cut and formed this week. I really hope to get it back to one piece by Sunday.

once it's back together, I can move my saddle tanks back behind the rear axle, then run fuel, air,and brake lines.
-blizz
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:46 PM   #5
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Made a little headway this weekend, broke a bunch of bits, story and pictures on Escapees forum
link
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index...showtopic=73051&st=0

-blizz
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:58 AM   #6
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Nice design and fab work blizzard! Did you design all of that yourself? I like how you used the continuouse lengths of prebent, prederilled plate to form the frame than extends from the front all the way to the rear. Are you boxing in the middle section for strength? Nice job, can't wait to see more as it progresses.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:50 PM   #7
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Thanks, ya I designed it myself, not much else to do in 20 below weather, I just sit in front of a CAD screen and dream n scheme.
I'm going to try and get all 100+ bolts installed tonight, I'm still tossed about boxing in the middle, due to exhaust heat.
-blizz
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:07 PM   #8
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I have a question or two about driveshaft angles, if you would like an update on my little project or would care to take a stab at my drive shaft delimma -heresss yourr link!

page 3
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index...showtopic=73051&st=0

blizz

also starting to design bolt in crossmembers, not sure what to do there quite yet.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:38 PM   #9
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blizzard; what are you loooking for? angles of the shafts should not be more then 3 degrees of each other and make sure you phase the yokes , or it will vibrate very badly. Crossmembers are to be strong enough to support the frame load, side load, and compression load. e-mail me for more info
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:16 PM   #10
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Posted March 02, 2009 08:29 PM
Framebuilder, I think I understand that the crossmembers have to be strong, my problem is that I only have 11 inches to play with vertically. The driveshaft in that area is nearly level and if the carrier bearing bolt flange is rotated down, I have 2.5" up from the lower flange. Also I need a minimum of 8" diameter to slip the yokes thru the x-member. and 5" hole on the drivers side to run the 4" exhaust thru.

My latest plan is to build 2 flat almost boomerang shaped pieces of 1/4 plate folded up. One to bolt to my 1/2" bolts along the bottom of the center frame rail. I will then bolt the carrier bearing to this plate, and once the truck gets gently driven the 1 mile to the welding shop, this plate will also be welded in. I am thinking of building and identical plate that will bolt to the top bolts the same as the previous plate only upside down. but with the 14 crosmembers welded to create the floor frame would an upper v-shaped crossmember be necessary?

I know this sounds a bit strange, but this project is strange. I fully expect you to be scratching your head on my above explanation.
-blizz

ps I pm you this same message, then I remembered that your emails get hung up in my filters for 2-3 days so I posted back her. besides his forum could use some life.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:36 PM   #11
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.....14?? my wrecker only has 7 total,,,,where did you get all the extras?.....my GVWR is 33k all considered- but is still plated as a class 6.5 ?....what gives were?....did I get bent over by the manufacture?....OOOoooo do I have a burning feeling!....geofkaye
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:27 PM   #12
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I'm at home away from my work computer with my drawings, I believe their may be even more crossmembers I know I ordered 22 96" 2x2x.187 today, the rear cross on the back is 2x3x.187 and I'm sure I might have missed one or 2.

The box is 22' long with the 2x2's on 16" centers. that gets me roughly the 14 for the floor, as 2 of them are almost atop each other where the floor drops the 11". The other 6 will go under the frame. 3 in front, under the cab and transmission. The other 3 or 4 will go under the fuel tanks and generator behind the drivers.

In case you are wondering, if I should ever need to drop the trans out the bottom, I will just sawzall the tubes. I think it would be easier to just pull the engine and trans in one shot then split .

after typing this I think you are referring to the The factory cross-members on the truck frame. I had 4 behind the cab but I removed the far back one and replaced it with a heavy steel box to hold my water tank. if you need another factory cross-member, I have one laying on the floor next to my mess. You could use it as a boat anchor.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:34 PM   #13
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here is a photo of my truck, notice all the 2x2 notches on my secondary rails
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:22 PM   #14
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.....THANKS FOR THE INFO....GOT ME WORRIED SOME WHEN I THOUGHT I WAS MISSING A FEW.....course some days I know I'm missing a few of everything....thanks for the side view it explains things to me........cool project for those that like to work their butt off-course in cold weather what else is there to do?....best of luck and shoot a few pix for us now and then as you have time......geofkaye
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:00 AM   #15
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Awesome! Very professional looking. Coming from a fabrication background I love everything metal and seeing it being transformed like this. Keep the pics coming. Great work!
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:10 AM   #16
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Blizzard,
What are you using...AutoCad or SolidWorks? I'm trying to get my employer to send me to learn SolidWorks since that's what we use here. I have a copy of AutoCad LT at home but have not messed with it yet. I want to use one of the programs to make some designs for both a stretched HDT and a custom built 5th trailer and see which I like better. I'm leaning towards the 5th as I could unhitch and use the truck for daily driving.
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:30 AM   #17
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I use AutoCad I have a copy of AutoCad LT 2005 that I bought but cannot get the CD to load on this new computer, so I am using an old (from work) CD of AutoCad 2000 with Mechanical Desktop. but in all the years I spent drawing professionally I only drafted in 2D so I don't use the 3d tools in the Mech desktop.

It is nice to use a platform that your steel fabricator can read so that they can just load your 2d drawing into their CNC plasma or laser and burn the parts out.

Also as far as pictures go, I have quite a few of them posted on a long thread on the escapees MDT site. check them out if you have a minute or 2

link
Blizzards MDT Conversion Plans

blizz

ps when you are working with steel, the area command in AutoCad helps figure out the weight of each part. I am finding that a steel weight chart is very handy, one it helps me keep the truck balanced front/rear axle and 2 figure 3 dollars a pound for steel that requires any cutting and forming. a simple piece of 3/8 plate gets expensive quick!
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Old 04-27-2009, 07:57 PM   #18
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wow, I cannot believe that I have been registered on his forum for an entire year already, a lot has happened in that year, We found a truck, sold our Roadtrek, and started on the conversion.

This week was a new turn, after having our truck at a local trailer repair shop, we have pulled it and moved it to C & S Conversions in Watertown SD. It is with a bit of irony that Chuck at C&S is a high school friend of my wifes. I wish now I'd consulted with him from the very beginning, I think I would have saved thousands of dollars in metal fab and mistakes.

Check out my story line on the Escapees forum, I posted current pictures, and to post on both forums is redundant, but I much prefer the build it vs buy it attitude here.

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=73051
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:55 PM   #19
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....I DON'T REALLY WANT TO GIVE ANY THING AWAY....BUT....if you have worked on any of the toters or MH's[TruckConversions] you will come to the conclusion that my crew did[and i didn't] and that is to build the inside after the structural steel is in place and then the plumbing and wiring insulation and then the outer skin.....just a little hint here-you might ignore it or consider it when building one yourself.....but we are tired of taking apart the inside many many times to get things to work well together or make those frustrating changes.....like changing a 15 amp wire[14ga] to a 20 amp wire[12 ga.] and such mundane things like that....windows are last btw......geofkaye
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:19 PM   #20
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That is a very good point. geofkaye, when you have been there, planing ahead pays off. I put the back of my box in last, just for that reason. blizzardND. Nice jub you done, hope your builder stays with your project and parks his rase cars. This is race season , sometimes it's hard to stay away from the track, when you are headed to Knoxville, IO Good luck. Roadside
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