Kenworth T300
 

Well I found this and then I found this forum and I am so glad. Already learned a lot. Found this for 10k…. 2000 T300, 335k on the meter, near perfect interior, air ride, with 8.3 cummins and FS-6406 (only real draw back) but Ive already found a FSO-6406 in another truck I think I can buy for about nothing. Truck was way down on power on the way home (400 miles) from where I thought it shoulda been on power but honestly Ive never drove to many class 6 trucks. My mechanic said had at least two injectors not firing so I guess that would explain that. How do y'all think the power will be?? Anyway I got a lot of questions but the two most pressing one is. Do I keep the sleeper and convert to crew cab? I've already found a good reasonable source of custom made sliding windows to go where doors are now so it'll make a nice crew cab. Second…. how close to center of axle does hitch need to be? Not gonna pull that much weight. All stock aluminum horse trailer. Just looking for some thought on these two things and others if y'all think of any.

Welcome!

Depending on your people count,a crew cab would be nice. A sofa, table,TV setup might be nice instead.

Horse trailers vary in size, how big is yours?
I've seen big trucks with a second receiver welded in at the height for a gooseneck. Think bumper pull conversion. This also depends on how heavy you load the box versus the rear axle capacity.

Yea Im liking the crew cab idea! 3 captains chairs with two off set to drivers side to allow easy access to back. Rear axle is 21k. My box won't be that heavy. Just bare bones conversion. Hardwood floor in truck body now is nice so no over floor. Im gonna plug tie down holes, sand and finish. Considering goose trailer only is supposed to load truck at about 25-30% of load I THINK ill be ok as long as its close to back axle. By close I mean with in 18 inches of center of axle prob be inside down plane of tires. Have thought about installing a drop axle to run when loaded!?

id say DUMP the sleeper - passengers can always sit on a couch in the "house".
I've seen several custom trucks w/ sleepers and they just don't seem to flow well on the interior....even when they do flow well visually on the exterior.

Welcome to the forum. The action is a little slow paced here, but a lot of guys with good info for your build. I did a little brother to your plan to tow my race car trailer, then 5th wheel camper. The GMC Topkick below. As to your build, have you considered eliminating the sleeper and sliding the box forward to mate to the cab and just cut less off the box? That would give you far more interior room to work with than making the sleeper into a crew cab, and even more for seats, couches, whatever. Think toterhome style build.

Opinions vary on hitch placement. I built mine with the fifth wheel hitch centered over the axle, which to my old school driving habits is the best handling and just what I am used to for backing up. Although I do also have a gooseneck hitch behind the fifth wheel, maybe 3' behind the axle, that I have used on occasion and that pulls just fine as well. I am in the minority, most guys converting hdt's for rv use put the hitch well behind the axle. Some say it is easier to backup, more like a bumper pull trailer, others do that just so they can make the wheelbase shorter for more maneuverability and still have a long box by pushing the hitch to the back of the frame. The one photo below of the box truck is the most extreme example I've ever seen, and I don't think I'd personally go that far. The Volvo is more typical of the rv guys, hitch 4' or so back from the axle where it is easy to drop the hitch down between the rails and give more room for a longer box or vehicle on the deck.

So I guess it's a trade off, the further up you put your hitch, the more you have to cut off that box.

check out similar trucks at the Home | Heavy Haulers RV Resource Guide

I have been in the day dreaming stage, I want to buy a day cab add a 20'-24' "box" and make it a bumper pull or tag, I have seen lots of trucks set up this way so this will probably be my method.

This is what I was thinking also. You should have plenty of rear axle capacity to allow the hitch to be back behind the axle a bit.

TAking Advice ?
 

Yea Im almost leaning that way after thinking about it. I am checking with AM haire here in town about building me a new box with steps on inside to curb 17' long all new aluminum to finish. I think by the time I sell my box, sell my sleeper and figure cost of material and labor to cut mine off, I won't have a lot more in a new one. She said a standard 18' is about 5900 so by the time you take out rear rolling door and frame in, remove cost for rails and plywood lining I may not have that much in a new box the right size!? Thats set on my frame! Also, I found a 1998 35' camper today with two bad ends (bedrooms) which I don't need or want ,with all appliances, ac, cabinets, electric panel, water heater,micro ect in the middle is perfect…. 800.00 sound pretty good??

one think ill say (that i WISH we had) was either hidden (or even open) storage under the steps.

if your building it put some storage either under the step tread (hinged door) or behind the step/riser - it would make a great place to hide shoes or a dust pan & brush etc.

our steps are metal so it would be tough for us to build 'em after the fact. Heres an example of some wooden ones that someone built into a camper (after the fact)....havign to open the lid all time could be a pain, i think id rather have the storage behind a riser or under the stair tread.

I sure am gonna consider this option!!

Let the games begin
 

Well finally got started yesterday got the box off the truck. A little side note Im having a little trouble with my engine bucking at cruising speed. (2000 8.3 cummins) Took it a local mechanic that I TRUSTED, He said injectors needed to be fixed! He had it four weeks! Yes 4 I told him I wasn't in that big of a hurry but anyway. He said it was done and fixed. I went and picked it up to the tune of 2065.00, drove it 1 mile and the same dang thing. Took it back then he said it was bad fuel. Get this guys he changed my new filter, drained the little bit of fuel I had in it put 20 gallons back in it and charged me another 362.00 And my damn truck still aint fixed!!! I got the bill and told him I'd send him a check on Monday. I aint decide which Monday yet but Ill get to it. Anyway I got on the internet and found location of micro screen on pump, removed and cleaned it and it 90% better as soon as i find the lift pump and clean screen its got in it Ill bet a dime against a doughnut it'll be fixed!! No mechanics any more just buncha Parts Changers!!! Anyway thats enough of my rant! So I got my 23rc Winnebago home. Im gonna end up leaving sleeper cause it gonna work real nice for crew cab. Sliding rear axle 5' back next week this will allow the motor home to sit in front of the axle with the fifth wheel pin over back axle. Heres is some pictures of the two things I'm gonna marry together. Looks like it gonna be a shotgun wedding(LOL) Thats a southern quote a lot of you won't understand. I just done the math and building inside my box wasn't an option for me. This motor home is laid out perfect and with everything I need in it. Frame rails are the same width and it'll fit nice behind my sleeper. I believe once I part out whats left I won't have a lot of money in it.

Pictures
 

Cant get pictures to load!!??

Another note on the truck. He said take it to Cummins, they have all the computer programs to see exactly whats wrong with it. I was like damn, sounds like I shoulda took it before I wasted 2000 on your ass!!

I hear ya, I got burned years ago and so glad the internet is out there and forums like this one to help us out. I ALWAY look online first and go from there. Sorry for your bad luck.
Sam

Good start
 

Well got a good start today, heres some photos Ill make better ones when I pull it out of the shed!