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Old 02-22-2007, 12:33 PM   #1
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My dash goes blank.


It initially occassionally started when I'd put the left turn signal on -- the dash and shifter (Eaton 10-speed) indicator would go blank for a second. I progressed to where the volt gauge shows it is 11.5.


We checked the alternator -- and it is throwing 14 volts -- and the batteries are charging.


We figured it must be a short in the dash -- and pulled the instrument panel out. While it appears to have analog gauges -- the whole dash unit apprears to be digital. We can't see any obvious damage (burns, smoke areas, frayed or crimped wires, etc) to the dash panel or the wiring inside. Something is happening before the gauge as the gauge is only getting 11.5 Volts sent to it.

Anyone ever have/heard of this problem -- and can offer help or a link to help? The truck it a toter 2003 Columbia FL112.

Bonus question -- where's the best Frieghtliner place on the west side of Houston to take this too if it isn't a simple fix?


I'm a drag racer -- and the truck only has 10,000 miles on it.
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Old 02-22-2007, 01:18 PM   #2
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Have you tried disconnecting the batteries for 10 mins and reconnecting them? It may be a simple case of the computer needing to be rebooted.

Have you welded anything on the motorhome or trailer with it attached, this can sometimes cause a glitch needing a reboot as above.

I am a drag racer too, it's a sickness I enjoy. What class do you race in?

I own a restored D/Gasser from the 60s called "Moody's Garage", you may have seen it or pics in magazines.

Peter.
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Old 02-22-2007, 01:38 PM   #3
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You might have something there. There was some welding done to get the fifth wheel off and the goose neck on.

There's a battery disconnect that has often been turned off -- but the batteries haven't been completely disconnected.

I race a car called Big Red Ram (www.bigredram.com) in Nostalgia Super Stock. It is a low 9-second 65 Coronet with a 540 and Jerico 4-speed -- but a new 580CI bullet is going in it and should be good for about 8.75 in the 1/4.



http://www.daveschultz.com/palbum/da...GE_A_CABLE.wmv

Where's the computer to FL112s located?
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Old 02-22-2007, 02:01 PM   #4
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More on the subject -- I'm getting 12.5 volts from the battery. Under the electrical/fuse panel cover on the passenger side of the dashboard -- there are 4 thick diameter (maybe 02 gauge) cables coming in and attached to four lugs on the enf of the fuse panel. I'm gettin 10.66Volts from those lugs. Somewhere between the batteries and where they supply power to the fuse panel -- I'm dropping almost two volts. This is before the computer.
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:09 PM   #5
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Some say that one should remove the fuses to the computer as well.

If you are loosing voltage, then it may be a case of tracing the wiring to find the short. Does the power go through any switching relays? The ones which connect the house batteries to the start batteries?

Is this a manufactured unit or a home construction?

Peter.
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:11 PM   #6
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The main DDEC computer is attached to the motor behind the frame rail on my FLD 120, driver' side.

Peter.
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:53 PM   #7
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It is a manufactured toter by Kibbi, Inc.

I don't think this has anything to do with the house system -- just the chassis. These battery cables attached to the lugs on the fuse panel in the passenger side dash -- appear to be mains (based on gauge) -- and before any relays (there are relays right after the lugs. It is impossible to trace back -- I'd need a wiring diagram of the chassis.

My assumption is that the computer is after the fuse panel -- and not between the batteries and fuse panel. Therefore, I think the short must be between the batteries and the glovebox fuse panel. I'm hoping that someone might know if there are electrical bulkheads in between -- and where to best access them if there are.
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Old 02-22-2007, 05:44 PM   #8
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Sometimes there is a big relay like for a starter, which will combine both battery banks for an emergeny start of to charge the house whilst you are driving.

I would contact Kibbi, they have always been very helpful with any technical advice I needed on my Renegade stacker.

Nice car by the way.

Btw, how did you insert that pic of your car?

Peter.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:39 PM   #9
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The problem you're describing may also be a corroded connection. Before spending $ to have Freightliner check it, you might look at the ground side as well as the positive connections. Generally a voltage drop can be attributed to resistance, and corrosion is usually the prime culprit.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:09 AM   #10
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Thanx -- there is a relay that connects both House and Chassis banks on this toter so we'll look for it and try to trace the battery lines for corrosion.

Thanx on the compliment on the car. If you have the photo hosted somewhere on the Internet, get the file name to it and click the little icon (second to last) that is suppose to look like a landscape photo (it is mostly light blue and green). It will ask you for the file name of the photo. If entered properly -- it will display the photo.

For instance -- this is my son's car




Thanx for the help -- I'll keep y'all advised.

Dave
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:05 AM   #11
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Thanks, I'll give it a try........

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