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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
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Hi,
I'm a newbie to the forum. Before posting I did a search and couldn't find any posts related to the mini that I'm going to convert. Mine looks like this: http://stonerradiator.com/images/dsc00667.jpg One immediate question is about insulating. The roof is aluminum with hollow ribs. Leaving the ribs empty will make conductive paths for heat/cold. It seems like spray foam is going to be the easiest solution. How far will the spray foam move laterally in the ribs? Will I have to drill access holes and spray right and left? I remember watching foam being injected into a couple of houses many years ago. It seems like the same process. Any other ideas? I've got all sorts of ideas that will go into the design. Before I get going I'm trying to see if anyone else has done up a Toy Box. Thanks! Tom
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Grafton, Wisconsin
Posts: 174
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Is the inside open or closed with some kind of sheeting? If it covered with sheeting, I'd carefully remove it, store it, put your wiring and plumbing and anything else you want in the walls and ceiling, have the insultation sprayed in, and replace the sheeting.
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#90 Heilig-Meyers Ford NASCAR Winston Cup car, Ronnie Hopkins chassis, Joe Rhyne motor, Jericho trans, Ford 9". 99 Suburban 1500 & 24' trailer, 08 Chevy HHR, & 04 Saturn Ion. Looking for 379 or 389 Peterbilt conversion, 24' to 30' box, bumper pull. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Camano Island, WA
Posts: 75
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Hi Tom, Welcome to the site. I believe that the inside of the box is probably built similar to my wells cargo trailer. It has aluminum sheet siding screwed directly to the metal framing. the framing is a "hat" section that leaves a void that you want to insulate. then there are wooden rub rails horizontal on the inside. I stripped of the interior wood and glued in sheet insulation between the vertical studs sealing the insulation to studs with spray foam in a can. for the inner stud cavity I drilled a small hole near the top and used a piece of flexible tubing attached to the foam spray can I slid it down to the bottom of the cavity and slowly withdrew it as the foam flowed into the cavity. If you try just squirting foam in it will only go a couple of inches before expanding and creating a blockage. The foam comes in two types, one is a high expansion type and the other a low expansion type for use around windows. Make sure you use a low expansion foam or else you will bow the siding out due to expansion. Its a real pain to do, but I ended up with a well insulated trailer that stays cool in summer and dry with no condensation in the winter. (I keep motorcycles and riding gear in it year round.) Good luck with your project.
Dave
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
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The ceiling is aluminum sheeting with hollow ribs/joists. The walls are skinned with fiberglass/FRP with 1/2 or 5/8 plywood and then FRP on the inside.
My electrical needs are small. It's going to be easier to run surface conduit and boxes than put them inside the walls. I might have to use an extension cord but that's no big deal to me. If I wait to have the electrical planned I won't be out camping. First order is to insulate and panel. The rest will fall into place as I go. Thanks
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
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Dave,
Thanks for the tip about using a long tube and low expansion. something like that did float through my 'hairy computer' as I was pondering a solution. At every step I'll take pics so that I can put up a build thread. Today I'm off to a couple of Habitat for Humanity Re-Use stores to look at cabinets. Tom
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: West Fargo ND
Posts: 252
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man if I was building something that small, I'd buy a pop up camper and have the 2 sides fold out, then use the rest of the popup stuff for the interior, and when I was done, Id sell whats left as a utility trailer to re-coup some costs
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2001 GMC 6500 Topkick, 22' box, dropped frame, designed to fit into a 9' garage door. 3126 CAT 6spd Man Lo-Pro 19.5's w/ 3.07 rear axle ratio |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
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Blizzard,
Sometimes...its not about size ![]() I'm happy with the size of mine...its going to work out exactly how I want it. My goal is to have a unit that is inexpensive to start and inexpensive to maintain. Tom
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 907
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It sounds like what Blizz is saying is to pick up a used pop up trailer and use everything from that to build your truck. Appliances, cabinets, lights, etc.... Even the slide out bed thing. Then after you've used everything you need you could sell the shell of the pop up trailer as a cheap utility trailer. Sounds like a good idea to me. I bet you could pick up a pop up pretty cheap and use most of it. Todd (Blizz) am I correct in your thinking? If I'm wrong then consider this my idea and I think it's a good one.
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'03 Freightliner FL112, 295" wheel base, with '03 United Specialties 26' living quarters, single screw, Cat C12 430 h/p 1650 torque, Eaton 10speed , 3.42 rear axle ratio |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
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I have most of what I need for the build already.
Good idea though...popups with rotted canvas are cheap. Then, the frame could go for sale.
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