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Old 08-14-2003, 12:19 PM   #1
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I have a Fuller 10 speed in my 95 FLD120 with 538,000 miles on it. Looking at the maintenance records this is the original clutch & trannie with only adjustments and PM completed on them.

Here is my questions.
#1: In the first say 10 miles, shifting is as smooth as butter and no vibration. After that the tranny seems to really tighten up and shifts become much harder and I seem to get a vibration above 1400 rpm in all gears except 10th. Is this normal or not?

#2: What is the life of a trannie & clutch?

I know I have a clutch issue and it may just be adjustment, but under hard acceleration I have had it slip & shutter for just a short moment. But it is not consistent and I can't get to happen all of the time in the same situation as it had done it before.

Next, I have done alot of research on trannies if replacement or major repair is in my future. Really my only somewhat economical automatic would be a reman Allison HT740 which is clunky at 4 speeds and I would have to change my rear-end gears to get speeds above 55mph. Cost without having a core, would be above $10,000. So that is out in my book. Next would be to go to a Allision World Trannie which would be 6 speed auto, but since a re manufactured unit is rare your talking big money $25,000 +. Way out. I really love floating the gears (when the trannie is working properly) and I think it would take the fun out of having the thing if is was full auto. Semi-Auto is out no one will retro a used truck with this trannie. So I looked at a reman "Super 10" which is almost the same $ as reman 10 speed, but it cuts the shifting in half with a air shift between each gear. And since I start in 3rd now, 4th on a slight decline, your talking 4 lever movements which would be very cool. Anyone out there have or used this trannie and how do you like it.

I ask these questions, because I have nothing to compare my current rig to nor do I have past experience in another truck to compare it to. Also, when I head off to these truck service guys they look at me like I am a freak. They tell me some vibration is normal (and I am not talking like I feel a slight vibration in my case, it shakes the cab) but they feel you should just run the mother. I guess the trucking industry is a different world. I just like everything to run 100%

And lastly my rig does not have a engine brake, I looked into adding this and it would be in the $4500 range through Cummins direct. I decided to check into a Pac Brake and it is under $1000 installed. I am looking to limit the braking I am having to do on long descents as well as back road hill country. Any one using a Pac Brake?(exhaust brake) How do you like it?


Bill

2003 28' Show Hauler Motorhome on a 1995 FL 120 www.showhauler.com
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Old 08-14-2003, 06:51 PM   #2
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Bill: On my 98, after I bought it in Salt Lake City, the clutch was fine all the way to Caspar, WY, then to Denver and on the way back to SLC I picked up a vibration about the same as you mentioned.

What happened was is that there are 4 hevy duty springs on the clutch plate and two of them had broke causing the vibration while in 8-10th gear and also making it creep while in gear at stop signs, etc.

Took the truck to a transmission shop in SLC where they diagnosed it and had a new clutch installed in 3 hours. Parts and labor were about $1600.

The clutch life depends a great deal on the driver. Some may last forever or as little as 100K. If the operator kept his foot on the clutch pedal the 100K applies.

Will you be thinking about Wichita next year?
Bring your truck for show and tell please.
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Old 08-15-2003, 06:26 AM   #3
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Warpath, I had a Pac-Brake on my POS Class A. It worked good and saved the brakes but I hear the effective braking compared to a true Jake is about half. Is there more than just pedal adjustment on your clutch? That'd be cool if you could adjust it like top fuel dragsters do.
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Old 08-15-2003, 08:43 AM   #4
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I would guess you need to have the clutch looked at; it is probably slipping. With that many miles, I am guessing it has been adjusted many a time and will need to be R&R. If at all close to being out of adjustment range, I wuold do that.
As for the shudder, etc - it may be related to the clutch, so I would try the clutch stuff first, but I would head off to the closest Fuller shop (probably any decent truck dealer) and have that examined if the clutch stuff doesn't address it.
Retro-fitting anything is a PIA, but the Jake is probably a better deal. I would consider looking at what other work could be done at the same time while they are dinking arund with the heads, and doing it all at once. It boggles my mind that someone would have ordered an OTR truck without a Jake, although I have seen it before. It has never made sense to me.
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Old 08-15-2003, 09:45 AM   #5
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As for the Pac or Jake, I am only at 30,000 lbs and thus only need a little help in holding speed, I know the Jake would be better, but I have a feeling I am going to be plunking down some $ in the clutch &/or trannie. Pac is on order, I'll let you know how it works out.

The FL dealer I have had the truck to before as been very fair on parts & labor costs. It goes in next week for check-up.

2003 28' Show Hauler Motorhome on a 1995 FL 120 www.showhauler.com
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:14 AM   #6
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One thing I saw that is disappointing. Looking at the roadranger website, I see that the Lightning is only available up to a 1650 lb torque rating, but the autoshift 10 speed (which is based on another transmission) is available up to 1850. Grr. Given that I am more inclined to a C15 now (both brakesaver and Jake available), I would probably need the additional capacity.
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Old 08-15-2003, 01:03 PM   #7
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Large truck clutches actually are two clutches. One is used when the vehicle is not moving - select gear to go forward/reverse and the pedel is depressed all the way to the floor. The other clutch is used for shifting - the clutch pedel does not go all the way down to the floor -if it does, you are wearing out one part of the clutch. Only takes 1/3 - 1/2 depression of the pedal to operate the clutch to shift gears. Takes someone with knowledge of these beasts to properly adjust them. I'm sure once you have your truck serviced, they will know what the problem is.

There are also lub points and oil levels that are important.

my $.02
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Old 08-19-2003, 11:12 AM   #8
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Warpath,

I would first have the clutch and clutch brake adjusted. At the same time I would change the transmission and rear axle lube installing synthetic lube. Those may not have been chage for maybe 300K miles.

When the tranny is drained, look at the condition of the old fluid. Examine the magnetic drain plug. Transmissions and rear axles will actually grind up metal particals into a powder which will attach to the drain plug.

The mechanic should be able to tell you pretty much what condition your transmission is in from drain information alone.

I doubt if you need a reman transmission, but if you do, I recommmend the Super 10 transmission. If you start off in 3rd or 4th gear, you will only have 3 lever shifts. Super 10s are much easier to master than straight 10s. Half your shifts are just button shifts then.

You can't beat a Jake, but I wouldn't spend that kind of money to get one. If your service brakes are in good shape, you should be able to get by easily just using them.

onezman
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:22 PM   #9
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I send off my oil samples to Blackstone Labs once a year for an analsys...$16.00 and $1.75 for postage..geof-near Cincinnati
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Old 08-20-2003, 07:31 AM   #10
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The truck is at the FL dealer now. I know the Jake is the best, but at the weight I am at and what I am looking for the Pac is a good fit for the $. That is getting installed today.

They are checking the clutch & trannie and if nothing else will adjust and replace fluids in the trannie with synthetic. (I actually would have done this myself, but since I need them to cover things I figure they will have to check this anyway)

They are replacing the clutch adjustment rod which has ball joints that are fried and make a heck of rattling noise. I also have a low coolant warning light that is going off and I have tried adding fluid and taking some away and it still comes on. So they will look at this as well.

I will update you with what they find in a day or so.

Bill

2003 28' Show Hauler Motorhome on a 1995 FL 120 www.showhauler.com
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