Freightliner Service
 

Since we purchased our FL Motorhome used, and the previous owner kept no service records, we are starting from scratch at 80K miles. I've read through the FL service manual and, if I read it correctly, we should have an M1, M2, and M3 service for a Service schedule II in order to get up to snuff.

I called my local FL authorized dealer and they didn't have the foggiest notion what I was talking about! Should I print the list from the FL service manual for them, or am I just asking for a big bill if I go that route?

I am interested in learning more about your service, I read all that too.
Sam

I decided to print off the list and take it to my FL dealer this morning. When I arrived, the service writer had printed a similar list and was comparing the M1, M2, & M3 service items to their "full service" package. The service writer then asked the service manager to join us and the three of us went through the lists while discussing the differences in how a motorhome was used and equipped versus an over the road rig.

Overall I think we struck a balance on the service with the manager deciding not to perform some things on the FL list that he felt were excessive (or at least not necessary for many more miles) in an RV application. I also booked an extra 30 minutes of labor for a "walk through" at the end. This should cover proper procedures for fuel filter replacement and re-prime, a better understanding of the air system and purging water from it, and a general overview of the systems and what to watch out for.

I'm also having basic service performed on the genset as well. All in, if they don't stray from their estimate, I think this will be a reasonable step towards establishing a service/maintenance baseline in the absence of any prior maintenance records.

Another thing you can do is draw an oil sample and send it in for analysis. Might be too late now but before your next oil change you might want to do that. I've done it a couple times on mine. The report has come back basically that my engine is in great shape. It's only like $20 or so for the test.

Make sure they don't try to add an extra "motorhome" charge to your bill. They should bill you as if it's a box truck since they don't have to do anything extra. If it's a diesel pusher then you should have to pay extra because it's a lot more work to dig down in the back. I get my truck serviced at a Kenworth dealer and they don't charge any extra.

Who do you use for oil analysis? I am interested in doing that.

Detroit Diesel did the pre-purchase oil analysis on the engine and generator engine. Now that we have a baseline, I will request an analysis on every oil change. Our results indicated that the engine was still "in break-in."

I was pleased to find that my dealer did not add the extra $20.00 per hour motorhome surcharge another dealer quoted. Thanks for the heads up.

I used speedco for my service. They did a good job and was reasonable in the pricing. They also serviced the onan generator. I basically had all filters changed as I was unsure of when they were last done

I get the kit from my nearby Kenworth parts counter. It comes with the mail label. I think it goes to Caterpillar in MN.

I use Speedco also and they did the oil analysis right there on location. One big mail-in oil analysis place is Blackstone Labs. You can also get a kit from Napa auto parts stores, it may be Blackstone as the lab?

Blackstone link: Blackstone Labs

The freightliner dealer worked on the truck for nearly two days. In addition to the complete truck and genset maintenance, they fixed a few little things, serviced/inspected the auto level system, and gave me a 30 minute walk through on maintenance, pre-trip inspection, controls, and recommended spare parts to keep on hand. They had provided an initial estimate, and landed fairly close to it, even with some of my add-ons.

I am accustomed to maintaining boats, light trucks, and cars. In comparison, the maintenance on these trucks could almost be called "relatively affordable!" However, if I get a chance to actually wear something out or break something, I fear it will be a different story.

Re: Oil analysis - I spoke to the folks at Blackstone Labs, when I was shopping for expedited lab services. They could not have been any more courteous and professional. I would have used them if the dealer had not gotten ahead of me and sent the samples to Detroit.

Id be curious to see that list of recommended spares and what there pre-trip inspection included.

Fan and AC belts, fuel filters, 2 gallons of coolant, 2 gallons of 15W40, gallon can of diesel for priming new filters.

Pre-trip (from memory): oil, coolant, and power steering fluid level. Inspect for any new leaks or any abrupt change in any levels. Shake fan to check for bearing wear, peek at exposed portion of air filter for damage (always note air filter gauge position). Energize ignition and wait to hear 6 ABS "pops." Once started, note any changes in usual readings or anything out of spec.

He also mentioned keeping a close eye on the tires for any irregular wear. Insisted that 100psi in each tire would be the best pressure to run.

good info - i don't carry extra belts or coolant....but i will now (thanks for the reminders),
i do carry extra fuel filters.

thats quite a bit of oil....boardering on 20 % of the overall capacity.

i usually have a gallon of oil on me, but have never had to do more than top up (2 quarts) and that might occur once or twice a year (depending on use)....if i need 2 gallons somethings SERIOUSLY wrong.

i have a self prime button on the (external) filter housing...crack the bleed screw on the filter and give it a few pumps (you'll hear the air being expelled...cant remember maybe even fuel comes out, shut the bleed screw and twist the key).....even when i drained the primary (engine mounted) filter i didn't have a problem w/ priming or running rough after a filter change.

that damn air filter (suction pressure) gauge has never moved on mine...but i agree its a good idea to look down that filter intake for obstructions or worn filter (same thing for my f350, which uses a similar gauge...never moves).

that tire pressure could be a bit low - I've notices some exterior tread wear on my steers...like they're under inflated when i run 'em at 100.

best way to determine air pressure is via the scales.

I think you are right about the air pressure. I checked Michelin's inflation chart and they were pretty specific. A trip to the scales is definitely in our future.

I think the oil is excessive too. Especially considering what I have read about these engine's very modest oil consumption. However, it may come in handy if a big leak developed and I needed it to limp in to service.