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Old 03-02-2014, 11:44 AM   #31
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Sorry for the delay in responding. Was out of town.
The trim (stainless and alum) on the box was purchased from Frank's Custom Trailers in Okla City where I purchased my trailer. I wanted the truck and trailer to match. Frank's does trailer repair as well as sales. Great people to deal with if you need a trailer. They ordered the trim for me from the manufacture Forrest River in Waco Tex.
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Old 03-02-2014, 01:22 PM   #32
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Michael, I see you went with shaveable rivets to attach the skin, did you also use 3M tape or Sika Bond as well or just the rivets? Are the corner pieces also attached with rivets & or tape? Looks like you placed the rivets about 3 or 4 inches apart (very neatly too). Did they get painted after shaving?

Choice of skin material and method of attachment are still the biggest decision I am working with in the design phase of my build. Concerned with taped joints popping open, but rivets are lots of holes that have the potential of becoming loose and creating a path for water to enter.

Thanks

Dave
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Old 03-02-2014, 02:50 PM   #33
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Dave, I was planning on using Silkaflex-252 to bond the .040 alum to the 2" tubing. However, after doing two test strips and following the manufacture's instructions to the letter, I was still able to pull the alum from the tubing after 72 hours cure time. Also, I have seen two "store bought" trailers with bonded sheeting peeled open like a can opener went down the entire side. That's when I went to the shaveable rivets. The rivets are 3/16" with an "O ring" seal. I predrilled a 2" x 1/8" x 10' flat strip for a pattern to space the rivets all the same. The rivets are spaced at 4" and the studs are on 16" centers. Using the pattern it went pretty fast. The rivets are not painted. Once they oxidize a little they look almost white anyway. I am sure there are some bonding agents that will work well, I just feel better with a mechanical fastener. The only drawback is the price of the shaving tool. At $200 it seemed a little pricey and you need to shave a few "practice" rivets to get the head shaved correctly.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:46 PM   #34
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Thanks, Not thinking 200 for a tool is too bad at all. drop in the bucket on the overall price tag of the build.. Did not know the rivets had o-rings that should take care of the seal issue there. Did you put any kind of sealant or tape between the overlapped panels, and the trim and panel? Wondering about water seeping in between the panel seems.

Enjoy seeing the progress pics on your build, very similar look to what i am planning except for a lot longer and another axle.

Hoping you guys get to thaw out a bit back there soon on your side of the Rockies

Dave
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:42 AM   #35
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Dave
Did not use any sealant on the seams. The alum sheets have a two inch overlap and with the rivets on 4" centers they are pretty tight. The cast alum. corner caps are sealed with silicone and attached with screws. The alum top trim is sealed with self leveling silicone roof sealer purchased at a local RV dealer.
I just returned from a 2 week vacation in southern AZ/Cal area where it was a pleasant 80-85 degrees. This morning it is 4 degrees with 3" of new snow and ice.....should have stayed another 2 weeks!
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