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Duff · 04-05-2012, 07:35 PM

Hello--

I've got a Showhauler conversion with an entry door that I'm about to replace the lock on. The old lock is a cheap setup with a plastic handle for the "deadbolt", and it isn't really able to support connection to a lock actuator. So I'm going to be enlarging the hole for the latch, and have a few questions you guys might be able to help me out with:

--The door sounds hollow. Is it possible that it is uninsulated? Or is it just not solid?

--If it's uninsulated, I'd want to add rigid foam insulation. Any tips/suggestions for removing the inside skin? Is it as simple as removing the trim around the edges, then peeling the fiberglass off?

--Should I install bracing around the lock to add support when I tighten the two halves? The new lock is a Trimark 30-900, and it replaces a FIC travel-trailer lock.

Thanks!

DDD

04-05-2012, 07:35 PM	#1
Duff Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: - Posts: 15	Entry door insulation? Hello-- I've got a Showhauler conversion with an entry door that I'm about to replace the lock on. The old lock is a cheap setup with a plastic handle for the "deadbolt", and it isn't really able to support connection to a lock actuator. So I'm going to be enlarging the hole for the latch, and have a few questions you guys might be able to help me out with: --The door sounds hollow. Is it possible that it is uninsulated? Or is it just not solid? --If it's uninsulated, I'd want to add rigid foam insulation. Any tips/suggestions for removing the inside skin? Is it as simple as removing the trim around the edges, then peeling the fiberglass off? --Should I install bracing around the lock to add support when I tighten the two halves? The new lock is a Trimark 30-900, and it replaces a FIC travel-trailer lock. Thanks! DDD