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Old 03-16-2011, 02:23 PM   #4
hot rod
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 527
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Blizz-

There you go again, trying to talk people out of it. lol. And you with the nicest homebuilt rig out there! I have seen your cost breakdown though, so i can see where you are coming from. If you really want to scare them off, post that list everytime you give somebody this warning. lol.

The problem for me, and presumably for a lot of would-be builder like myself is that even knowing the cost will work out about the same in the long run, the problem is we don't have or don't want to borrow the 40 grand up front. But it is a lot easier to come up with the chassis (check) and then the money to get it checked out and serviced (check) and then the money to buy the steel (check) and then the rest can be spread out every time there is enough money for a Home Depot run, or an Elkhart run. Plus it keeps my tools from rusting, and keeps me out of the house. But money availability not being an issue, I'd be with you and just buy one and get it over with.

Dave

Which reminds me, I had a question for you after looking all through your build photos a few times. It appears as if you just welded the front wall and roof wedge of the box to back and roof of the cab, constructing the front wall from plate steel. Is that accurate? And if so is that working out ok as far as cracking at that joint? I am wanting to go a similar route so I can get some standup room out of the drivers seat like you did, as opposed to a traditional accordian booted crawl through, but I was worried about flex between the rubber mounted cab, and the solid mounted box. I have a newer 6500 chassis like yours. Any thoughts or advice you would care to share on that issue? Thanks in advance! Dave
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