Truck Conversion & Toterhome Community - View Single Post

Vern396 · 03-31-2005, 12:09 PM

I'm a long time follower and first time contributor of this forum. It has been a wealth of information.

I have a 1990 379 extended hood Pete that I use to pull a 2000 48' Cargo Mate Eliminator living quarters trailer. I got the trailer for less than the manufacturer's cost to build it when I bought it off of a bank who had the floor plan on the trailer dealer that went bankrupt. It seemed like a good deal at the time. I had a 1995 K3500 Chevy with the 6.5 turbo that I planned to pull the trailer with, but soon found out that the truck and its brakes were not up to muster when it came to the trialer's 18,000 lbs. loaded weight. Having been an over-the-road driver, I knew a Class 8 tractor was the only way to go with that kind of weight. However, the cost of commercial insurance and license can hardley be justified, given the amount of time I get to play with my toys. I've come to realize that I can convert the truck to a motorhome and/or buy a conversion for the amount I spend on insurance and license for my current rig.

Having built my own racecar and being the DIY type, I've prety much decided to convert the truck to a motorhome. Besisdes, I have a friend who will help that converted a bus that looks like it was done by a profesional. I've talked to a Manufacturing Shop here in WV that will build the box to spec, leaving me to finish the interior. Based on some of the pictures I've seen of the conversions the shop has made, I'm impressed with their quality and construction. However, I've not had a chance to talk to any of their customers and have some concerns about the specs. The entire box would be construced with aluminum using 2"x3" aluminum boxed tuing in the floor and 1"x2" aluminum boxed tubing in the walls with .063 aluminum skin bonded by 3M tape on the outside. Having drove a truck, I know that aluminum trailers are highly susceptible to stres cracks. Given that SH and the other manufacturers use steel to construct their boxes internally, I'm wondering if cracks are common in aluminum constructed conversions and that's why SH and the others don't use it? Then again, it could be the cost. Anybody have any thoughts?

03-31-2005, 12:09 PM	#1
Vern396 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Tornado, WV Posts: 13	I'm a long time follower and first time contributor of this forum. It has been a wealth of information. I have a 1990 379 extended hood Pete that I use to pull a 2000 48' Cargo Mate Eliminator living quarters trailer. I got the trailer for less than the manufacturer's cost to build it when I bought it off of a bank who had the floor plan on the trailer dealer that went bankrupt. It seemed like a good deal at the time. I had a 1995 K3500 Chevy with the 6.5 turbo that I planned to pull the trailer with, but soon found out that the truck and its brakes were not up to muster when it came to the trialer's 18,000 lbs. loaded weight. Having been an over-the-road driver, I knew a Class 8 tractor was the only way to go with that kind of weight. However, the cost of commercial insurance and license can hardley be justified, given the amount of time I get to play with my toys. I've come to realize that I can convert the truck to a motorhome and/or buy a conversion for the amount I spend on insurance and license for my current rig. Having built my own racecar and being the DIY type, I've prety much decided to convert the truck to a motorhome. Besisdes, I have a friend who will help that converted a bus that looks like it was done by a profesional. I've talked to a Manufacturing Shop here in WV that will build the box to spec, leaving me to finish the interior. Based on some of the pictures I've seen of the conversions the shop has made, I'm impressed with their quality and construction. However, I've not had a chance to talk to any of their customers and have some concerns about the specs. The entire box would be construced with aluminum using 2"x3" aluminum boxed tuing in the floor and 1"x2" aluminum boxed tubing in the walls with .063 aluminum skin bonded by 3M tape on the outside. Having drove a truck, I know that aluminum trailers are highly susceptible to stres cracks. Given that SH and the other manufacturers use steel to construct their boxes internally, I'm wondering if cracks are common in aluminum constructed conversions and that's why SH and the others don't use it? Then again, it could be the cost. Anybody have any thoughts?